Majestic Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capitol, is in the midst of a major upheaval. Old and new are constant clashes—it’s a city where cycle drivers share the road with elephants and BMW SUVs; where tented houses sit in front of high rise modern apartment dwellings. Poised as a competitor with neighboring Ho Chi Minh City and Bangkok, Phnom Penh will be opening its first stock market in 2009. Get there before all the suits and ties arrive.
Standing amidst the endless chaos and cacophony of Phnom Penh, it’s hard to believe that not too long ago this city was a ghost town, emptied of its civilians, businesses and street life. Thanks in part to Buddhism, Phnom Penh residents have moved forward with gusto and an enterprising spirit and see the future as bright. International investment is pouring into this city, so be prepared to dodge construction sites and have cranes in your skyline photos.
However, it’s critical to understand and acknowledge the enormity of the wars and seemingly endless torture that the locals faced. While this may seem like a grim way to spend a few hours, The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum displays powerful imagery of local people who were later killed by the Khmer Rouge regime; the building was once a school, then a prison, and finally a torture center. A visit to the Killing Fields, on the outskirts of town, will round out the educational experience. Both are a must see, however painful and solemn they pose to be.
A stroll along the mighty Tonle Sap River is a must. Grab a delicious grapefruit from the various fruit vendors that hawk their goods along the promenade and watch children happily swim in the murky Tonle Sap and teens play badminton with abandon. Then check out the Royal Palace and its surrounding lush gardens and gape at the silver floored pagoda and the Emerald Buddha. Inside the Palace, marvel at the collection of impressive royal regalia and incredible artifacts. Next door is the National Museum, which houses more objets d’art and other icons of historic Cambodia.
Street 240, or Rue 240 as it is still called, is the expats epicenter. Bliss Boutique offers an astonishing and delectable array of brightly colored dresses, handbags, home furnishings, sandals and giftables in a gorgeous French colonial house. Recently opened in back is the new Bliss Spa, where indulgent treatments of all sorts can be had. Down the street is Water Lily, a jewelry paradise, chock full of a rainbow of glass beads, charms and one-off stones that the shopgirls will happily make into a necklace of your choosing. Couleur’s d’Asie, two doors down, displays home furnishings, silk goods and gifts that are a feast for the eyes. Delicious cafes, sweets stores and coffee shops round out Rue 240’s offerings, making it a must-see destination.
Bars and nightclubs abound in Phnom Penh, with more and more international influences underlining the scene. Local and guest deejays mash hip hop and local Khmer disco at L’Orange, a dance club frequented by locals and expats alike. Be prepared to sweat – a lot. Liquid, near Independence Monument, is a new bar on the scene, which offers minimalist décor and the best pool table in town. Zeppelin still spins vinyl and has a choice of 1000 LPS to select from, making this hot spot retro-chic. Maintaining it’s “in” status for years, Heart of Darkness welcomes the hordes of expats who hound this spot every Friday and Saturday night and drink until the wee hours of the morning.
Dining in Phnom Penh is easy, since there are hundreds and hundreds of restaurants and cafes lining every street, boulevard and alleyway. Locals eat from street carts and makeshift diners, perched on de rigeur red plastic lawn chairs and slurp delicious noodles from china bowls. Be adventurous and tuck into one. For those looking for authenticity without the health risk, Sovanna is a traditional Khmer barbeque joint, offering delicious and inexpensive meals to wash down with local beer. The Garden Center Café is decorated with travel and movie memorabilia and serves Khmer and Western dishes, both yummy and affordable. For the ultimate in chic, Van’s is the place to see and be seen. Expensive, yet worth every riel, French cuisine is at its finest here. Amanjaya Hotel has a Western steakhouse in its lobby and never fails to impress.
The markets of Phnom Penh are exhausting but exhilarating. Enormous and overwhelming, the best one in town is Central Market, housed in an Art Deco building and surrounded by hundreds and hundreds of vendors, hawking anything and everything you can think of. Be coy and discreet and check out the “fallen off the back of the truck” high fashion US labels here, straight from the neighboring factories. Sneakers, vintage clothing, spices, teas, fabrics, vegetables and an enormous amount of mysterious sundries abound in this market. Expect to wander for a few hours at minimum.
While the choice of decent hotels is limited in comparison to Siem Reap, there is a growing number of modern, fabulous hotels to choose from. For limited budgets is the minimalist Blue Lime Hotel, a modern oasis. A tropical saltwater pool in the garden is surrounded by pillowed gazebos, perfect for indulging in a long book or an entry in your travel journal. The hotel has broadband, air conditioning and all the modern trappings. A new business hotel, The Almond Hotel, has recently opened and is clean, comfortable and Western in its décor and sensibility. Rooms are well appointed with coffee makers, wifi, cable TV, air con and mini fridges. On the higher scale, is the gorgeous Amanjaya Hotel, which overlooks the Tonle Sap. Rooms are enormous and beautifully decorated; the downstairs restaurant and bar serves fantastic Western and Khmer food. Raffles Hotel Le Royal will make you feel like royalty; expect old world charm and impeccable service. The newest entry on the hotel scene is the Quay, a modern boutique hotel that will make you think you are in LA, London or Lima. Wifi, mini bars, flat screen TVs and rainshower showerheads are all part of the package. Their restaurant, Chow, serves Asian fusion food of incredible combinations, and the rooftop bar says “chic” all over it.
The country code is 855.
The accepted currency in Cambodia is US dollars. Cambodian currency is riel, although the only time you will receive it or use it is to make change. ATMs are widely available in Cambodia and will dispense US currency. Most local cafes and small guesthouses do not accept credit cards, and even in the larger hotels, American Express is frequently not accepted. Stick with MasterCard and Visa.
A $20 entrance visa will need to be purchased upon your arrival in Cambodia. Do not waste money getting it at home before your trip; you will spend much more than this, and getting it at Arrivals takes about 10 minutes. A $25 departure tax is required when leaving Cambodia.
Shots and other medical precautions are not required to visit Cambodia. Siem Reap is malaria-free, but if you choose to go off the beaten path, you may wish to consult your doctor before departing for Cambodia. Bring along some extra medicine just in case (Imodium, Antacids, etc.), but most everything is available at the multiples of pharmacies (Western and Khmer).
Where to Stay:
The Almond Hotel: A new hotel on the scene, the Almond Hotel is clean, simple, minimalist and comfy. All business-related amenities are offered in each room. Breakfast is included in the price, and is ample and tasty. 23-22-08-22; www.almondhotel.com.kh
The Blue Lime: Gorgeous surroundings, a saltwater pool, free wifi and a central location make this one of Phnom Penh’s best bets. 23-22-22-60; www.bluelime.asia
The Quay: Modern, fashionable and futuristic, The Quay is also “carbon friendly”, taking eco-chic to a whole new level. 23-99-22-84; www.thequayhotel.com
Raffles Hotel Le Royal: Grand, regal and old world charm. Extraordinary service and attention to detail never ceases to impress. 23-98-18-88; www.raffles.com
Where to Eat:
Van’s: Expensive by Cambodian standards, this restaurant, however, is worth every penny. Fine French food is impeccably prepared and presented; wines to match. 5 Rue 102; 23-72-20-67
Garden Center Café: Funky and fun, this café serves both Western and Khmer food, making the offerings a crowd pleaser. 60-61 Rue 108; 23-99-78-50.
Sovanna: Cheap and cheerful, this local BBQ packs them in nightly. Be prepared to drink a lot of Khmer beer. 2C Rue 21; 12-84-00-55.
Chow: Located in the Quay Hotel, this Asian fusion restaurant inspires awe with their fanciful combinations of flavors. Sisowath Quay; 23-99-22-84.
What to See:
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum: It’s important to understand and witness the strife this country faced for decades. Photo exhibits, artifacts and periodicals are on display here.