Tapas in the East Village

In Spain, “tapas style” is not just a way of eating but a way of being. It’s the lively, gastronomical reflection of a communal space; it says, “we’re here together, sharing each other’s company, so let’s share a meal, too.” Food, like fun, is best when it’s shared.

Plado Tasting Bar brings that philosophy to New York’s East Village, a playground for experimentation if ever there was one. Dinner here is a round table affair. As the name suggests, dishes are made to be sampled, passed to your neighbor and enjoyed by all. The one entrée approach doesn’t fly.

Braving the Cold for a Taste of Tapas

I visited on a cold, cold night in November. My coat was securely fastened, and my scarf was wrapped tightly around my face as I hurried down Second St., hands shoved into my pockets. Not many people were out that night; in fact, I was the only person on the block. I felt a little crazy, with my nose running and eyes watering, as I subjected myself to the biting air in search of this restaurant. So, when I saw the earth-toned sign, lit warmly from above, I felt a deep relief.

From its color scheme to the attitude of its staff, warmness pervades Plado. Sitting at a rustic, dark wooden table on the first floor of the restaurant, I admired the light fixtures which emitted a pleasant orange glow—fixtures handcrafted by Chef and Owner, German Rizzo, a friendly, talkative man whose dedication to the restaurant is obvious. Plado is his labor of love. As with those fixtures, the wine cellar is also of his own making.  After braving the icy hinterland that was Manhattan that night, I needed a warm, lively ambience and Rizzo lovingly crafted one.

About Chef Rizzo

Chef Rizzo has a rich culinary background, speckled with stints in a handful of the world’s food capitals. A product of New York’s Cipriani group, he was well equipped to open his first restaurant in Astoria, Queens, Vite Vinosteria (which he co-helms with Plado). Additionally, he’s worked at Michelin-starred Era Ora in Copenhagen, the Terroni Group in Toronto, and opened yet another restaurant in Miami called La Centrale.

Rizzo’s diverse background is reflected in Plado’s menu, an artistically crafted set of global samplings (though if one style is predominant, it’s Mediterranean). In addition to a tasting menu and a short list of specials that rotates weekly, dishes are separated into four different sections on the wood-board menu: Garden, Butcher, Sea, and Board. The selections vary depending on the season, but each category has its own premier dish.

Garden, Butcher, Sea and Board

For Garden, it’s the taro gnocchi, a South American/Italian fusion featuring a crisp helping of pan-seared pasta pillows accompanied by earthy oyster mushrooms and a hearty truffle cream sauce. The Butcher section showcases a creative take on chorizo. Thinly sliced and sautéed in garlic, the sausage sits garnished with lemon zest on a bed of fava beans and served in a Moroccan tajine, which releases an intense, savory aroma when opened.

A favorite of the Sea section is the charred octopus laid on a bed of beautifully seasoned couscous with seasonal vegetables. On the Board menu, one can find a playful charcuterie spread called Italy vs. Spain, which features competing meats (thinly sliced Jamon Serrano and Parma Prosciutto), honey ricotta, house marinated olives, and grilled bread. (Mimicking this regional competition, when you enter either of the two bathrooms, you’ll hear Spanish or Italian lessons over the speakers: “It’s good to meet you … Es bueno conocerte.”)

Charming Cocktails and Wine

For drinks, both the cocktail and wine selection will charm you. Beverage & Special Events Director as well as Chef Rizzo’s wife, Kristin O’Donnell Rizzo, has crafted a thoughtful wine list that covers many regions around the globe. A favorite of mine, because I was sincerely surprised by the depth of inky purple fruit that was produced in this little-recognized region, was the 2007 Tacama from Terroix in Peru. I recommend ordering a bottle; you won’t waste any of it.

The cocktail menu wisely borrows from the expertly selected wine menu, featuring crisp, bubbly drinks like the 2^nd Street Passion, a mixture of Prosecco, passion fruit purée, and mint. Or try their Sauvignon Blanc based drink, La Liceo, a foamy, orange concoction served in a coupe glass and garnished with a lime twist.

Inspired Desserts

Like the rest of the menu, dessert takes inspiration from a myriad of sources. One will find the Bombotirasu – cute house-made donuts with dippable mascarpone mousse, dark chocolate, and coffee ganache, which is accompanied by a lovely pistachio gelato – along with a boy scout staple, S’mores. Rizzo’s S’mores & More, is an elevated take on the campfire favorite – Bavarian chocolate cream, marshmallow (of course), and mixed berries are served in a glass tumbler and topped with whipped cream, served under a tricky cover that traps in the familiar (but in this case artificial) smoke.

If you make your way to Plado Tasting Bar, make sure you come hungry and with friends. The food here is enjoyable, but best eaten alongside lively conversation and familiar faces.