It is a city full of mystery, full of life, full of history. When one sees Prague for the first time, you might even say it’s hard to believe that it’s a real city — not some movie backdrop of a made up fairy tale European wonderland. While most cities in Europe have become increasingly modern over the past few decades, Prague has managed to keep its generally Gothic look. The Golden City, The City of a Hundred Spires, The Mother of Cities — whichever nickname you abide by — is absolutely haunting. “Prague never lets you go… this little mother has claws,” the renowned Czech writer, Franz Kafka once wrote. He couldn’t have been more right.
Praha, as it is called in Czech, is now the 6th most-visited city in Europe and the numbers of tourists grow every year. It wasn’t commonly visited before the fall of the Iron Curtain and the split of Czechoslovakia in 1993. But once Slovakia and the Czech Republic were formed, Prague was named the capital of the new Czech Republic and immediately began cleaning up its image for visitors. The Czech Republic is now made up of two regions, Bohemia (the area in which Prague is located) and Moravia.
The Vltava River runs right through the middle of Prague, helping create the ten different districts of the city and making perhaps the city’s most famous landmark possible: the Charles Bridge (Karlův Most as the locals call it). While it is always wonderful to visit the bridge during the day, expect mobs of people and be very wary of pickpockets. The best time to see the bridge is in the dead of night, when there are no tourists and sometimes no people at all. Bring a can of Gambrinus and enjoy the view of Národní Divadlo (the national theatre), Prague Castle, Petřín Hill and the rest of the city’s lights at night — and maybe even spot a few locals making their way back home over the bridge after a long night out.
The first thing you’ll want to see is the Museum of Communism (Na Přikopĕ 10, Praha 1, 224-212-966, www.muzeumkomunismu.cz). Located in the middle of some great shopping, stop in on your first morning there to learn all about the culture you’re visiting. It is the best way to learn about the most recent history of Prague and her people (all the events covered in the museum have happened during our lifetime, which can be hard to wrap your mind around…) as well as give you a great appreciation for your own freedom. From the museum, it’s easy to walk to both Old Town Square (in the heart of Old Town, or Staré Mĕsto) as well as Wenceslas Square, called Vácklavské námĕstí (the heart of New Town, or Nové Mĕsto).
Nové Mĕsto is a good thing to do in a spare afternoon, as it doesn’t take too much time to wander the streets of this section of Prague. This area tends to be very tourist-heavy, so a brief walk through is all you’ll need to see the famed statue of Saint Wenceslas at the top of the square. For something a bit more interesting, walk through the Lucerna Palace off of the main square for a parody of the original statue: in this version, St. Wenceslas rides an upside-down dead horse. Avoid restaurants and bars here; they all have prices aimed at the tourists. Instead, walk along Ve Smečkách south to Ječná where you will find Pivovarský Dům, a locals-only restaurant specializing in different flavored beer. They have everything from cherry to coffee to nettle (although I wouldn’t recommend the last flavor!).
Once you’re ready to walk off the beer-buzz, walk down the hill along Ječná towards Karlovo námĕstí. There is a lovely park complete with a water fountain, as most parks have in Prague. If you’re up for more walking, head to Botanická zahrada (Nádvomi 134, 603-582-191 or www.botanicka.cz/generate_page.php?page_id=1186). You’ll find many seasonal open-air exhibits, and it’s a lovely break from the pushy tourist crowds around for most of the summer.
Another great area of the city usually unexplored by tourists is the small, cobblestoned, windy lanes of Národni třida. Directly across the street from the oft-crowded Tesco (the European equivalent of a Super Target) lines small streets absolutely perfect for getting lost in. Walk around and expect to find things other tourists have never found. Small cafes and pubs lie on every corner — and most of them are much nicer from the ordinarily dark beer halls around the rest of the city. If you’re lucky, you might even find the hidden Absinthe Time (Křemencova 5, 731-166-054 or www.absinthe-time.cz). In this pub dedicated entirely to the Green Mistress, you can taste over 20 different varieties of absinthe, all differing in potency and all legal. Don’t plan on starting — or ending — a night here, for absinthe is an experience all of its own. If you aren’t ready for absinthe quite yet, check out perhaps the best-kept secret (from tourists as well as locals) in Prague 1, the Tulip Cafe (Opatovicka 3, 224-930-019). The waiters are some of the most hospitable in the city and the garden out back is to die for. Somehow, a pivo here tastes just a bit better than anywhere else.
If you are feeling very brave, get some good use out of your metro pass and head on to the other side of the Vltava, past Malá Strana to the newly-trendy Andĕl. There are more bars and restaurants than you can count and the shopping is fantastic. You won’t find any tourists here, but you will find the pivo cheaper than across the river. For those interested in delving even deeper into the city, walk to the bus station at Andĕl, Na Knížecí and take the bus a few stops to Urbanová. This area, called Smíchov, is also considered “on the cusp” by locals. You’ll find local pubs where the pivo is about 20 CZK — or about a dollar at today’s exchange. There is also an alluring old cemetery, perfect for anyone interested in photography.
Of course one thing to remember on a trip to Prague is that you aren’t a tourist. But while it’s best to see the city as a local, it would be a sin to leave without seeing some of the best tourist attractions — that’s why so many people go there, after all! Old Town Square, called Staromĕstské námĕstí by locals, is perhaps the most beautiful (and recognizable) area of the city. While the cafes there can be very overpriced, one of the best ways to spend an afternoon in Old Town is to choose one of the many outdoor restaurants and watch the city pass you by. It’s worth paying double the price for a latte, and something you can only experience in Prague. Also in the square, you will find the Astronomical Clock, another huge tourist attraction. It awakens every hour on the hour with the Walk of the Apostles, but you can always check out the calendar dial with the months and the position of the sun and moon. There are many local legends about the clock: some say the original maker’s eyes were gouged out by the government to prevent him from making another one like it. After this, the original maker died touching the clock, at which point it stopped working and remained broken for many years.
While in Old Town, a stone’s throw away from Old Town Square is the horribly beautiful Jewish quarter, Josefov. This area was actually preserved by Nazi Germany during World War II, as a planned site for a museum of an extinct race, subsequently gathering Jewish artifacts from all over Europe to display in Josefov. Perhaps the most-visited site in the district is the Old Jewish Cemetery, where an estimated 100,000 Jews have been laid to rest. The tombstones are so plentiful they are stacked on top of each other, making this cemetery one of the most-visited cemeteries in the world. Don’t miss it.
Also off of the square is Pařižská, or “Paris Street.” There is nothing French about this street, but it is where you can find all of the world’s most famous designers’ boutiques, where it’s always fun to spend a fabulous (but expensive) day of shopping. From this street, it’s easy to walk to the famed Municipal House, or Obecní Dům, perhaps the city’s most important Art Nouveau buildings. It’s hard to miss, along with its next-door-neighbor, the Powder Tower. Decorated by Alfons Mucha (who didn’t do much “decorating”), the Municipal House now is home to art galleries, fashion shows, a first-class French restaurant as well as a small outdoor cafe. The outdoor cafe is a perfect place for a cup of tea as well as something sweet — the cafe is know for its decadent desserts. For more Art Nouveau sites, take the red line metro over to Hlavní nádraži, Prague’s main train station, done completely in the Art Nouveau style.
It can be temping to spend an entire few days in Old Town — but don’t miss the sights across the Vltava as well. Cross the Charles Bridge (don’t forget to stop at the great wishing statue; rub St. Jan while wishing to return to Prague and it will come true, or rub St. Sophia and wish anything you like) to Malá Strana, where you can stroll some of the most charming streets in the city. One of the most fascinating landmarks in the area is the Lennon Wall, off of Lázenska on Velkopřevorské náměstí. Since the 80s, this wall has been heavily graffitied with messages of peace and many lyrics from Beatles songs. It’s a must see for each trip to Prague, as the wall changes every day as people write more messages of love. Also in Malá Strana is the church of St. Nicholas, Golden Lane, the Prague Castle and the Cathedral of St. Vitus, which is situated entirely within the walls of the castle.
Prague is a city for walking, so to have the true local experience take the nearest tram or metro until you feel like getting off — and then wander your way around the fairy tale city. There’s nothing you won’t want to see.
Helpful Hints
Country code is +420.
English is very widely spoken. It helps to know a few basic Czech phrases, (“pivo” for beer, “prosim” for please/excuse me, “ahoj” for a casual hello) but you won’t need more than that.
From the airport, public transportation is extremely easy to take. Get on the 119 bus and ride it all the way to the last stop, Dejvická, where you can get on the green metro line and take it to anywhere within the 10 districts of Prague. It may be tempting to hop on busses, trams and metros without buying a pass (public transportation is on the honor system) — but don’t. Plainclothes policemen randomly get on and off transportation systems to check passes and will usually check when they hear someone speaking English.
While summer is a wonderful time to go because of the weather, expect the entire city to be crawling with tourists – and pickpockets. Try the spring or fall when the city is much calmer but even more beautiful.
If you plan on taking a taxi at all, only take AAA cabs. They are the only cabs who have a good reputation and won’t rip off tourists. Even better, you can always call ahead for one at 222-333-222.
Although the days of the secret police are long gone, you still must carry your “papers” (read: a copy of your passport) with you at all times in the Czech Republic. If you run into the police at all, they will ask to see them.
Where to Sleep:
Four Seasons: While no locals ever go to the Four Seasons, it’s still the best way immerse yourself in luxury anywhere in Prague. Located in the heart of Staré Mĕsto with views to do for of the Prague Castle. Veleslavínova 2a, Praha . 221-427-0000. www.fourseasons.com/prague.
Miss Sophie’s: The best way to see the city like a local is to live like one. Don’t let the word “hostel” scare you — Miss Sophie’s rents beautiful, boutique apartments in gorgeous old buildings in Nové Mĕsto for fantastic prices. Melounová 3, Praha 2. 296-303-530. www.miss-sophies.com.
The Alchymist Hotel: Why just visit a castle when you can stay in one? The Alchymist, located right next to the American Embassy in Malá Strana, dates back to 1592 when the building was used as a monastery. With a breakfast to die for every morning and spa treatments to bring you back to life, this hotel actually makes it hard to leave to explore the glorious Golden city. Třžiště 16, Praha 1, 257-286-011. www.alchymisthotel.com.
Hotel Josef: A modern masterpiece in the heart of Old Town at Námĕstí Republiky. Hotel is complete with all the modern amenities; ipod docking stations, a garden, free wifi, plasma TVs and fabulous breakfast included with your room. Rýbna 20, Praha 1. 221-700-111. www.hoteljosef.com.
Where to Eat & Drink:
U Sadlu: For the best, authentically Czech meal you’ll find their side of the Vltava. Think lots of meats, potatoes and vegetables — all very fresh and very delicious. Expect a wait, but it’s well worth it. Klimentska 2, Praha 1. 224-813-874. www.usadlu.cz.
Bohemia Bagel: If you’re feeling a little homesick for America, stop here to run in to a slew of American expats living in Prague. It’s no wonder they hang out here; there’s free refills of soda and bagels to rival New York. Two locations, in Old Town at Masná 2, Praha 1, 224-814-560 and in Malá Strana at Lázenska 19, Praha 1, 257-218-192. www.bohemiabagel.cz.
Červená Tabulka: Translated as “the red tablet,” this restaurant dishes up gourmet, local delicacies. Make reservations and be prepared to drink — one of the few places with a fantastic wine list. At Námĕstí Republiky on Lodecká 4, 224-860-401. www.cervenatabulka.cz.
Jáma: Think of a loud, Czech pub — but then add fantastic burgers and other pub foods and this is where you’ll get. Located off the tourist trap strip of Wenceslas Square in Nové Mesto, bring your computer for free wifi. Jámé 7, 224-222-383. www.jamapub.cz
Nebe: Literally translated as “clouds,” think of this more as “heaven.” The perfect blend of Bohemian beer pub with the club scene, Nebe’s hidden feel houses both locals as well as tourists. Drinks here are expensive by Czech standards, but really, when was the last time you paid $5 for a mojito past 8 p.m.? Insider’s Tip: nights are themed, so go on Thursday for 80s night or try Tuesday for the local indie rock scene. Located off the Národni Třida tram and metro stop on Křemencova 10, 224-930-343. www.nebepraha.cz.
Radost FX: Radost FX is a one-stop shop for everything entertainment — a coffee shop, record store, art gallery, vegetarian restaurant and downstairs one of the hottest clubs you’ll find on the local scene. This is a must for fantastic Mediterranean food (or those just sick of pork shoulder). The indie/art nouveau decor will make you feel like the hippest tourist in the city. At I.P. Pavlova on Bĕlehradská 120, Praha 2, 224-254-776. www.radostfx.cz.
Roxy: Anything goes in this restaurant/internet cafe/dance hall/art gallery. Head upstairs to see the local modern art of the week or check your email. If you are feeling brave head downstairs the club section at night — but don’t say I didn’t warn you. Anything really does go at Roxy. Dlouhá 731/33, Praha 1, 224-826-296. www.klub.roxy.cz/index-eng.php.
Must See:
Prague Castle: Of course any visitor can’t leave Prague without walking up the hill to the Prague Castle (an UNESCO World Heritage Sight) and visiting its eight different gardens. Also, be sure to walk down Golden Lane just outside of the castle’s grounds to see the mini-homes where the infamous alchemists used to live. For information on the Prague Castle and surrounding sights, visit www.hrad.cz/en/.