Québec’s Active Lifestyle

 

While waiting to board my flight to Québec City I got the sense that I was going somewhere international. A short hour and five minutes later I was staring at a landscape of trees upon landing. I quickly understood what the Québecers had already made clear to me … the great outdoors is just beyond their back door. Past the jet bridge was a welcome in two languages, French, and then English. I was here in the international capital of the province of Québec … a place I wanted to visit for a long time.

In retrospect I think I may have had a subconscious reticence about coming. My French was rusty and I’d heard comments about the city being mostly French speaking. Thoughts of Paris in North America ran through my mind but let’s set the record straight, OK? It’s true that Québec City is the cradle of French civilisation in North America and its’ official language is French. If you are studying French or are a novice at French conversation and want to improve, put it at the top of your list. Beyond that, this charming World Heritage site with overwhelmingly friendly and sophisticated people combines the best of two worlds and just about everyone speaks English, too. I was about to discover a little of both and get to practice some of my rusty French along with it.

Founded as the colony of “Nouvelle France” back in 1608 by Samuel de Champlain, Québec is an Indian word meaning “where the river narrows” and this is true of the St. Lawrence River here which, like its’ sister city Montreal 155 miles to the west, borders the city and creates a spectacular vantage point to explore. My first glimpse of romantic Vieux Québec, (Old City) just 16 km from the airport, came after a beautiful 10 minute drive along the shore of the St. Lawrence on the Promenade Champlain. Here a wide bicycle track and snaking pedestrian path form the foundation for a spectacular urban park punctuated by contemporary art installations that interact with the landscape design. Completed in 2008 in commemoration of the city’s 400th anniversary, it’s a green oasis in the middle of the city and I was told it was a project that revitalized the area, turning run down apartments into desirable townhouses. A few days later I, myself, would be pedalling this shore by cycle, marvelling at the seamless sequence of unexpected visual atmospheres along the route and thinking that I’d love to be able to do it every day. It didn’t hurt that the September weather was fantastic and the brilliant sun and temps in the eighties practically called for short-sleeves.

Québec City has a distinct European character and is the only fortified city in North America.  Vieux Québec is a magnet for the curious, steeped in history everywhere you turn. Narrow cobblestone streets and massive stone walls encircle the town and a Citadelle out of a Gothic novel stands watch. You’ll quickly find yourself roaming these streets of antiquity, peering into quaint shops and longing to peek inside the historic houses and buildings. Hailing from Philadelphia, I’m no stranger to colonial architecture, but the hilly geography here reminded me of a colonial San Francisco. Actually divided into two towns as a result of four major hills, the Upper Town (Haute Ville) and Lower Town (Basse-Ville), are connected by a set of killer stairs known as the Escalier Casse-cou (the back-breaking steps). The adjacent Old Québec Funicular bypasses these and deposits you up in Upper Town in the shadow of Chateau Frontenac, the city’s most famous landmark. My guide told me that Québecers choose to stay in shape and avoid the cost but as a tourist you can’t beat the views along the steep 45 degree angle climb. Save your strength and energy for the outdoor activities to come.

Vieux Quebec practically begs for a good walk, so stroll the Lower Town’s animated Quartier Petit Champlain first, paying close attention to Rue du Petit-Champlain, where the restored houses lining the street are now home to a picturesque promenade of shops and cafes, and the atmosphere is European. Have a quick look around the Vieux Port where the Gare du Palais train station, looking like a French Renaissance castle, is straight out of a fairy tale. The fountain nearby in the Place de la Gare celebrates the power of water and is particularly spectacular at night. Head down rue St.Paul, past posh boutiques and antique shops and turn up rue St. Antoine, a short block that dead ends at the Auberge-St. Antoine. This luxe boutique hotel is a journey into the past. In the lobby is an awesome museum-like display of hundreds of artefacts from the 17th century onward, discovered during an archaeological dig on the site. It’s a unique exposition for visitors and provides a canvas to view the city’s DNA. Outside, walk left on rue du Sault-au-Mateolot and look for the Mural of Québecers, a fresco depicting 400 years of history painted with 15 historical figures. It’s a quirky window into the city’s evolution and a great photo “op” that puts the city in perspective. A few steps further lands you smack in the middle of Place Royal, the heart of Basse Ville where the city began. Admire the bust of King Louis XIV, the man who started it all. You’ve made a “tour” and are ready to ascend to the Haut Ville.

Once upstairs, you’ll find yourself in the Place d’Armes with Champlain’s statue in front of you and scenic views of the St. Lawrence behind. Here in the Haut Ville you have a true village atmosphere with every street worth exploring. The unparalleled quality and variety of restaurants here puts Québec on a pedestal for exquisite cuisine highlighting regional produce. Take a few days and unwind in the “ville” and let your intuition be your guide as there’s so much to discover and much of it within walking distance, too. Just remember that less than 30 minutes from here are hundreds of places to enjoy nature and culture both so you shouldn’t spend all your time in the city. The endless list of activities available and the breathtaking natural scenery in all seasons is just a few minutes’ drive from downtown.

During my visit, the second annual Grand Prix du Cyclistes was taking place (see accompanying article in Inside Scoop), a major sports event with two bike races (the 2nd following a few days later in Montréal) in which the elite of men’s professional road cycling were competing. The city’s hilly terrain was made to measure for this race and with the unique landscape as a backdrop and the brilliant sunshine it brought out much of the townsfolk cheering on their favorites. Enthusiastic crowds thronged the route and watching the lithe cyclists complete 16 circuits around the city got me in the mood for a little physical adventure of my own. Since Québec City is one of the few cities that blends urban life with nature’s pleasures, I decided on a few day trips away from the city center yet still relatively close, to channel my adventurous side. I knew that Québec’s parks were renowned for state of the art sports and recreational facilities and the awesome spectacle of the landscape would inspire me to perform. I’m always craving a closeness with nature so I got psyched to discover Jacques Cartier National Park (1 hour by car), the Vallée Bras-du-Nord (45 min by car) and Duchesnay Tourist Resort (30 min by car).

Driving is a cinch out of the city and if you leave after the morning rush you’ll be en plein air in no time. Quebec’s vast natural surroundings began to roll before my eyes after just about 25 miles from downtown and the scenery was incredibly beautiful especially as it was still summer. It was hard to believe that in another 20 minutes I was already at the Laurentian Mountains. Québec’s 22 tourist regions boast numerous lakes and rivers as well as two mountain ranges and the vast domain of the Parc National de la Jacques Cartier was my first destination. Located 50 km north of Québec City, the park offers 100 kilometers of hiking trails, canoeing and kayaking, river rafting, cross country skiing and snowshoeing. Put it at the top of your list if you’re looking for the perfect outdoor adventure.

Covering 26 kilometers of the environs, the Jacques Cartier River is one of the park’s best assets and is the best way to view the dazzling scenery. A pretty spiffy, state of the art Discovery and Visitors Center greeted our small group and we set out on a hike to get to know the park. As we climbed over ancient rock formations and through phosphorescent caves I began to feel like a kid at the playground. Tommy, our guide, was as thorough with explanations as a teacher on a field trip and after about an hour exploring the boreal forest he was ready with a quiz about prehistoric conditions. Out of breath all I could answer was … duh. I did see some unusual mushrooms however, and that got my mind to wandering about stats. Hmmm, a camping adventure next time with a magic mushroom stew?

After a sunny picnic lunch we waded into the river to paddle downstream in our mini-raft. The park offers a thrilling 8 km run featuring 4 Class I and II rapids and our group of 8 was up for it. Thanks to our guide Rene, I quickly learned when to paddle and when to … collapse. By now the blazing sun had us in a sweat and a couple daredevils in the group opted for a quick dive into the frigid waters during the calm stretches. Are you kidding? No way, Jose! I admit I was tempted but even the strongest among us was shivering after the plunge. We finished the day exhausted and on a high waiting for what the next day would bring.

We set out bright and early in the morning for the Vallée Bras-du-Nord, an ecotourism coop in the region of St. Raymond in Portneuf. The Vallée is a sustainable tourist development with a breathtaking valley, a winding river, numerous mountains and cliffs and a majestic waterfall. It’s also a leading destination for mountain biking and has some of the best single tracks a bike could ever wish for but I had already loosened up my cycling limbs in town. After some serious soul searching I decided to go full monte and chose an adventure called canyoning where you climb down a mountain under a shower of waterfalls. We’ve all heard of the rigors of going up, right … well, this is the reverse. After donning our gear and packing the additional gear for the descent, we crossed the world’s narrowest bridge and hiked what seemed like an Olympic stretch up the mountain. Thirty minutes later we were getting our lesson … what if I changed my mind? Sorry, Charlie, there’s only one way back down! This was a hairy adventure I admit and scary as all hell but Marc, our fearless guide calmed our nerves and made us realize we could do it. Back on solid ground I was soaked, and not from the cascades … how about buckets of sweat from pure fear? Would I do it again? What do you think?

My last adventure found me playing Tarzan. Let’s just say I think I really needed the costume to channel that groove but I gave it my best. Station Duchesnay is a nature resort situated on 82 km of woodlands on the shores of Lake St. Joseph, just 30 minutes from Québec City. Within the shelter of this huge maple forest is Treego Duchesnay (d’Arbre en Arbre), billed as an unforgettable tree-top adventure circuit, a forest full of fun. I was never much for tree climbing but Treego got me harnessed up and psyched for a shot at my Survivor audition. The challenging aerial obstacle course defies description with monkey bridges, nets and footbridges that string you along from tree to tree with progressive levels of difficulty. It’s a nature boy’s dream. While there are superb views throughout, if you’re like me you won’t be enjoying them as you hang by a cable and climb for your life high above the ground. This playground is fit for monkeys and you’ll either go ape for it or be apeshit at the prospect. One thing is certain; you’ll never forget it and you’ll never be the same. Treego was a thrill of a lifetime.

As I taxied to the airport next day, I was physically exhausted yet mentally exhilarated. Strangely sad to leave the people and the place, I had bonded with Québec and had even got to practice my rusty French. Now I can’t wait until Winter Carnaval.