Were it not for the floor to ceiling windows looking out to the famous Victoria Harbor skyline with sweeping views of towering skyscrapers in the distance, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped back in time to neoclassical Paris. Set on the 56^th floor of Island Shangri-la Hong Kong in Admiralty (above an upscale shopping mall), Restaurant Petrus has long been a favorite of diners in this city of glass and steel, and it’s increasingly obvious why.

 

At this iconic dining venue the décor exudes a regally elegant air as you’re ushered in by the mâitre’d. Black marble columns, crystal chandeliers and murals adorning a domed ceiling define the ambiance here, more reminiscent of a European palace than modern Hong Kong.  Recreating the opulent glamour of a bygone era is a difficult task in today’s minimalistic world yet the restaurant, with over the top magnificence, appears neither dated nor a cheap imitation, rather a reflective mirror to the grandeur of Paris in its heyday. One of a few restaurants in Hong Kong that still enforces a dress code, it’s a bit more relaxed for lunch than dinner, where entry requires gentlemen to wear sport jackets. Should one be ignorant of the stipulation or have forgotten to dress appropriately, the restaurant thoughtfully provides a temporary one.

 

Matching the classic vibe of the decor, Restaurant Petrus serves mainly classic French fare, though Chef Frederic Chabbert is occasionally playful in his cooking style and presentation. The chef has an impressive culinary pedigree, having begun his career at the two Michelin starred Le Cerf in Alsace, then hopping between more Michelin starred restaurants across France and the U.K., before settling in 1999 under the tutelage of Alain Ducasse at the renowned Le Louis XV in Monaco, where he adopted his mentor’s values of traditional, unpretentious cuisine.

For a set weekend lunch the restaurant presents a unique concept, dividing the menu into four sections – vegetables, fish, meat and sweets – listing only the main ingredient in a dish, such as salmon under fish. Patrons can then choose the cooking method for a course, or leave it to the whim of the chef. The notion is to allow the diner to have a variety of choices by mixing and matching, and in essence puts the experience of the culinary team into the hands of the patron.

 

For our lunch, we chose vegetables (legumes), salmon, lamb and coffee and left ourselves at the mercy of the chef. We were first presented with Petrus’ legendary breadbasket with both salted and seaweed butter. Their butter roll is light and flaky, but extremely filling, so be careful to not eat too many! Our spartan starter – sliced carrot and radish stuffed with leafy vegetables in a bone marrow and egg yolk soup – contradicted its rich, creamy taste, and started the meal off on a pleasant note. The lightly seared salmon on a bed of asparagus and peas that followed was better presented and flavorful, but lacked the true joy that a fresh sashimi of salmon brings and, while pleasant, was probably the least favorite of our selections.

The highlight was the pink lamb from Aveyron, grilled medium rare and left more or less to itself save for a drizzling of sauce and a dab of cauliflower cream on the side. Chef Chabbert imports the lamb from an Aveyron shepherd he’s known for many years, whose farm is just a few miles from his hometown. Not laden with superfluous ingredients, the meat’s freshness and tenderness shone along with its carefully selected accompanying herbs

 

While Restaurant Petrus is known for its outstanding wine cellar (arguably the largest in Asia), regretfully we opted to stay dry on the rather dry day, despite the sommelier’s best efforts to convince us otherwise. Thoughtfully attentive service is a hallmark of the restaurant and was nothing short of exemplary. The staff is knowledgeable, courteous and helpful, and notices the smallest things like refilling water glasses and replenishing those lovely butter rolls. Regrettably, while Restaurant Petrus has lost its Michelin star, to my taste it is still the best French restaurant in Hong Kong.

*For help with restaurant options while in Hong Kong, there’s no better tool than a DK Eyewitness Travel Guide.