Few people outside of Honduras are aware that Roatán Island, an exceptional paradise that sits along the edge of the Caribbean Sea, exists. As well, few people know that Roatán Island is part of a small group of Caribbean islands in Central America. I spent New Year’s 2010 on Roatán as a solo traveler, and although the island does have its own international airport, I arrived by a fast ferry from the town of La Ceiba on the north coast of Honduras.
Not overrun by tourists, the landscape and the atmosphere are stunning. As a foreign service employee on a modest budget, I stayed in West End, a part of the island that is popular with tourists. Plenty of hotels charge as little as $35 a night, however, there are some more expensive resort accommodations in neighboring West Bay. Along with being affordable, West End is also beautiful. It sits right on a beach with palm trees and clear water and the village has only one unpaved road. For many travelers, Roatán is a tropical dream come true because it is more affordable and safer than other parts of Central America. In addition to its island charm, there are restaurants and bars in abundance, some of which are improvised wooden structures that sit atop the water. You can tour the island by foot at any time without fear, a quality that is inherent in the island’s easy going atmosphere for the young and old alike. Since both English and Spanish are spoken by practically everyone, Roatán is an occasional destination for cruise ships. And last, though certainly not least, the sunsets are spectacular.
From West End I walked along the beach to the next cove, “West Bay”, the more upscale tourist area. The beaches are even whiter and the water even clearer there than in West End. The extreme Southern corner of West Bay has a coral reef that comes right up to the shore line, which you can explore without any snorkeling or diving equipment (though the island does offer many other opportunities to take lessons). This area of the island is teeming with natural life so much so that schools of colorful fish swam round me even when I was standing in shallow water near the shoreline! As a warning, you are not allowed to touch the coral reefs or stand on them as they are protected. Apart from ecological reasons, you would never want to touch them because of their sharp edges that can hurt you like a knife. In fact, I nicked my leg in just a second when I swam over a reef.
I was amazed at how much this small island had to offer culturally as well as naturally. Although West End and West Bay are so near to each other, just like all the other villages, resorts and quiet areas on the island, they have their own unique personality and ambience. One of the qualities that transcends these differences, however, is that the people of Roatán are quite happy and content with life on their island. I was fascinated by the island’s diverse population, an interesting cultural and ethnic mix comprised of a large, black, English speaking “Garífuna” community, descendants of former slaves that escaped from the island of St. Vincent, as well as the large communities of mulattoes and mestizos (Spanish-speaking Hondurans from the mainland) working in tourism or on vacation. There was even a large presence of U.S., Canadian and European expatriates who found themselves “stranded” and never left.
January and February are low season so expect lower prices. Currently demand is not high partly due to Honduras’ unfavorable image with the political upheaval in 2009 and the overthrow of the president, although all that seemed far away from this island when I visited. During the prime travel seasons, the climate is idyllically mild, never unbearably hot, and almost always a little breeze blows and palm trees give shade and the best of all is that the surf is warm year-round.
I was told that the island of Utila, Roatán’s neighbor, is known for the yearly “Sunjam” festival in early August. A rave that boasts a heavy mix of techno, electro, reggae, reggaetón and salsa music, this event keeps everyone, young and old, native and foreign, grooving on the beach all night long. Sunjam is hands down an activity that every person who steps foot on the island must experience at least once. Even appealing for non-dancers, this festival is another way these island people show their appreciation for the good yet simple life.
Immediately upon my return home, I noticed that the little things that used to annoy me were really not that important. Maybe the simplistic beauty of Honduras’ best kept secret actually did have an impact on me. Or maybe the thrill I got from thinking about my return to Roatán and the rest of the Islas de la Bahía was enough to keep me happily distracted from all of my routine nonsense. Either way, Roatán will always have a place in my heart and in my travel itinerary.