Rosarito Baja, Baja California, Mexico

When I think of Mexico, I see colors—vivid hues reflective of festivals, frivolity and carefree fun. Rosarito Beach, a small coastal village only 35 miles south of San Diego, is no exception. 

After my inaugural visit, too many years ago to count, it seemed a straightforward trio of casualness, cuisine and cerveza. The town attracted weekend revelers, fun-loving spring breakers, wave-seeking surfers, fans of fresh fish and the best part . . . it was affordable. 

From the first glance on my recent visit, that descriptive remained. But beneath its good-value and informal vibe, Rosarito today is replete with its treasured staples along with assorted surprises—some hiding in plain sight and others off the beaten path.

Here’s some insider intel.

Snuggled within the Municipality of Playas de Rosarito, stretching north to south along the Pacific Ocean from the southern border of Tijuana to La Misión is Rosarito Beach – the most visible of this collection of communities. 

A romantic at heart, it gives me comfort to revisit long-ago discovered pleasures, as I did in Rosarito Beach. Cue horseback riding on the beach. Found situated on the sand near the Rosarito Beach Hotel, horses and their handlers are available for a ride along the surf, past beachgoers, musicians strolling to work, seaside homes and more. Cooled by a soft breeze and guided by 14-year-old Berto atop his horse Indio, this plein air, made-in-Baja venture was a flawless kickoff.

Beyond the universal appeal of a mild Mediterranean climate, visitors throughout this coastal region are enticed by the ease of enjoying the uncomplicated getaway—15 hotels, a tasty selection of taprooms and craft beer spots complemented by a choice of 900 eateries, from food trucks to fine dining establishments.

Here’s only a sampling of recommendations uncovered from my delicious journey. Starting the day at Xatina Brunch and Bistro begins with a cup of Café de Olla (a sweet coffee spiced with cinnamon and cloves), followed by choices from one their many Benedicts and assorted omelets to such specialties as fried chicken atop a light-as-air waffle.

Tip: If in doubt, look for the “Xatini” designation indicating a signature dish.

Located on a nondescript side street off Rosarito Beach’s main thoroughfare is Occio Alta Tradición. Specializing in Mexican/Japanese/French fusion, a meal here is elevated to an unanticipated level. Plated dishes are so artistic, they qualify as museum pieces, with tastes to match. 

Tip: For a tableside treat, order the nigiri sushi with bone marrow dramatically melted with a butane torch and poured atop the raw fish.

To fully appreciate the entire region called Rosarito Baja, we head past downtown toward La Misióne.  

The wall of floor-to-ceiling windows of Sunio Restaurant & Beach Club opens onto the sand and overlooks the Pacific. The view not only complements the tempting menu from its trio of chilaquiles to fresh seafood dishes but also sets the stage for relaxation. 

Tip: Pad your visit with time to enjoy a day at Sunio’s private beach. The charge is US $50 but $40 credit goes toward food and drinks beachside.  

Puerto Nuevo, the renowned “Lobster Capital of Mexico,” is known for its more than 30 restaurants specializing in the coveted crustaceans served family style—deep fried California spiny lobster with rice, refried beans, melted butter for dipping and beachball-sized tortillas as edible wrappers. The oldest of these establishments, La Casa de la Langosta (1956), is our choice—known for a history as rich as the meal. 

Imagine a restaurant so uniquely designed, it could have been inspired by the unconventional Spanish architect, Antoni Gaudi, and visionary Walt Disney. That restaurant is Los Portales de García. Nicknamed “The Castle,” it is one of the region’s magnets. Here, dining is an eclectic event—to the sound of mariachis, contemporary music and the occasional “Happy Birthday.” With the sea as the focal point from its cliffside perch, the restaurant presents an assortment of multi-level terraces and lookouts, many reached by circular stairways and hidden walkways and serves such specialties as oysters on the half shell, a variety of ceviches, prime beef entrees and traditional Mexican dishes.

Tip: Weekends are crazy crowded, so, if possible, go midweek.

Within a short walk and offering a calmer alternative is Punta Bahia, an outdoor choice that also showcases an elevated water setting. Do you see a pattern here? A new addition to the region’s growing gourmet scene, its setting is so creative (cowhide seating, greenery wrapped string lights and a coffee bar in an Airstream camper), you might wonder if the cuisine can match up. Answer: It does. 

But for another food “find,” head east. 

Along the El Médano Ecotourism Route, a bumpy dirt road leads to El Arroyo Restaurante. Located at a Mexican farmhouse, dining is set in the yard on wooden tables with benches and haybales draped with colorful sarapes for seating. The husband-and-wife hosts, Mario (chef) and Gaby (hostess, decorator, server), feel like family during a brunch of homestyle Mexican fare, long before our final goodbye. After retiring from careers in Los Angeles, Gaby explains their return to Mexico: “We moved there for the American dream, but here, we have the Mexican dream.”

Tip: It’s only open on Saturdays and Sundays. 

Indeed, Rosarito Baja’s culinary landscape is original and outstanding. But it would be a mistake to miss its emerging and expanding craft beer scene. With taprooms and tasting rooms scattered about, some a bit obscure, it’s worth the wander. 

The common denominator is often from the brewer himself. 

Neighbors collect at Delliott’s, where brewmaster Jorge Delgadillo’s goal is to create brews reflective of the beach vibe setting, especially ones that appeal to locals. His reasoning: “Mexicans, we don’t drink Pacificos or Coronas.”

Situated within Plaza FoodFest, downtown’s outdoor food court, is Tinta Negre. The location allows customers to select their beer, then pair it with simple comfort food like hamburgers, pizza, even churros, crepes and sushi. One interesting pairing suggested by the brewmaster is Eleuter Barajas, a Oaxacan chocolate brown ale with chocolate cake.

Further south, Colectivo Surf specializes in everything — beer, wine, coffee (Oaxaca beans) and mezcal. The upstairs tasting room is decorated with the work of a local artist, who also designed their colorful Baja-inspired beer labels. And if you’re still craving an ocean setting, Patio Popotla, aptly situated at the famed surfing site K38, is the spot.

Here, rhythm and revelry are ways of life with festivals transporting travelers to the region’s heart—festivals like the Baja Beer Festival (July), Baja Beach Fest (August) and the Last Party Festival, aka Day of the Dead Celebration, (every November 1). 

So, to focus on the locality’s contagious energy, my final tip is to mark your calendar for a festival and capture all the many colors that are Rosarito Baja. Viva México!