Nature Boy
Everyone knows the Squire is crazy for an adventure but I wasn’t sure what to expect when we decided to trek to the mystical island of Samothrace, close to Turkey in the north Aegean, after the season had ended. My love of all things natural struck a chord when I set foot on the island, which earns my vote for the best up and coming nature lover’s paradise.
I’ll start by saying that the memory of a few chilly days spent in Mykonos in early October had me worried about the plans, but it was late September and I’d heard that the picturesque mountains looming over rugged beaches with scenic coves were an eyeful. Plus, the meandering streams and waterfalls waiting to be discovered would lure the nature boy in me. Don’t even get me started on the gregarious islanders, each with a relative back home bending over backwards to please. And let’s not forget the food, of course, always memorable in Greece. It’s true that the blinding white architecture and winding cobblestone alleys of the Cyclades Islands are what most people think of when it comes to Greece but there’s something to be said for lush vegetation, massive trees swaying in the breeze and flowering shrubs dotting a landscape that looks ready for Van Gogh or Monet. Be sure to bring a 4 gig chip for your camera if you go.
Let’s get history out of the way first, and put Samothrace (also known as Samothraki) in perspective. Perhaps you’ve seen the famous statue of the Winged Victory (Nike) in the foyer of the Louvre in Paris? That masterpiece of sculpture, made famous worldwide as the Rolls Royce hood decoration, was discovered on Samothrace by a French archeologist in 1863 and carried off to Paris. It’s hard to believe today standing among the ruins where the statue once stood, that this unassuming island provided a major contribution to world culture. You got it. What would a Greek island be without a treasure trove of antiquities? Except that on Samothrace, spectacular green pebble beaches and nature in its wildest forms are also waiting when you tire of the culture.
We were told that the island was a hiker’s paradise and as it came into view after two hours on a ferry from Alexandroupoli, it was obvious why. A large land mass glowed in the afternoon sunlight, the rocky, even brooding landscape dotted with green hills and valleys. It wasn’t until the ferry approached the port that we had a sense of anyone living there and while the commercial vibe of the village of Kamariotissa wasn’t exactly a perfect photo op, it was picturesque and alive with activity. We decided to ground ourselves as soon we drove our car off the boat and get accustomed to the carefree comings and goings of island life. Plus, we were hungry after that trip and the town’s long narrow street was bustling with tavernas. We trusted the spirit of Nike herself, a large, modern interpretation rendered in shining steel and placed proudly in the square, to guide us to some fresh fish. An army of skinny cats guarded the entrance to the restaurant, a good sign we thought. Several hours and many ouzos later we’d begun to channel our island groove and decided to “walk the town” to see what we could find. Most of the shops were of the souvenir variety but how many people do you know with a Samothraki tee shirt? Besides, we needed maps for navigating and some beverages and snacks to take back to the hotel.
The short drive to the Archontissa Hotel took us along a scenic winding road with hairpin curves that, at first, followed along the coast. It was nicely paved, a perfect width for two cars and at times ran close enough to the deep blue Aegean that you could stop for an impromptu picnic and quick swim. We got to know this route pretty well after a couple drives back and forth and it became a great test run for practicing our drag racing skills. After roughly 10 kilometers of skimming the sea, the road became densely overgrown and we found ourselves covered by the lush greenery of the forest, with enormous bowing trees creating a cool canopy over our vehicle and the mountain rising steeply to our right. Here and there a small house sprang up or an occasional sign signaled a restaurant or guest house but for the most part it looked remote. A gradual clearing opened up a few kilometers further and the road widened as we paralleled the foothills of majestic Mount Fengari, clouds floating around her peak. The spectacular scenery was panoramic and soon we approached the long white walls of the hotel with its imposing iron gates and sign rendered in curlicue letters. Stopping to enter, we heard cowbells, the only sound piercing the beautiful silence outside. In the adjacent hills, a herd of goats was having lunch.
We raced to unpack our suits and get down to the beach for a swim before dusk, but when we got there we were alone so off went the suits. There is nothing like diving into the sea in Greece, especially au naturel; it’s … well, like Baptism almost. As the night set in we decided to rest up for a big day of hiking in the mountains but couldn’t go without ouzos and fish in town, of course.
Next morning not knowing what to expect, we ate a big Greek breakfast with freshly made jam and bread and set off to grapple with the Mt. Fengari mountain range and the Vathres, small natural pools created by the waterfalls along the Fonias River, where we could swim buck naked in icy cold, pure mountain water. No need to pack the suit this time, who would notice? A 30 minute climb along a shaded path that followed the river and alternated between easy and difficult led us to our nirvana, a waterfall plunging into a black pool. Guess what? It was cold (but still wonderful) and surprise! When we made it there, we were not alone. This time the suits had to stay on.
A typical Greek lunch in the woods followed and afterwards we hustled over to Kipos Beach to keep the thread, so to speak. The drive further west was dreamy, again, goats were our only company and after a series of hills and curves we descended steeply to a large pebbled beach with strong wind and surf which got our engines revving. When we saw that we had the beach to ourselves we cast fate to the wind, suits went flying and we became like dolphins rehearsing for the paying customers. Again, the sea was like … well, you already know! When darkness fell, all we could talk about was the next day’s excursion to the mysterious Sanctuary of the Gods. After some ouzos, the debate became who would make the best video there.
Well, take a guess who won the debate? Both the Squire and I welled up in awe of the Sanctuary of the Gods and we had so much on our minds in sight of the ruins that we were practically tongue tied. I managed to get out some obvious facts but this place was deep and maybe even a little over our heads. The exploration required several hours of hiking and contemplation (a secret society? – hmmm, I could relate) and guess what we needed after? We hot tailed it to Pahia Ammos Beach, a fabulous drive to the west over the island’s hills and dales, and soon sat on the golden sands, after a nice long swim of course. It might be nice to watch a sunset here, but maybe put the suits back on first, huh?
Our next and last day took us to Chora, the bewitching hillside capital of Samothrace. Just a short drive in the hills above Kamariotissa and we were meandering up (and down) winding cobblestone streets with tiny stone churches and a curious taverna with friendly patrons around every turn. I felt a bit like the Pied Piper when I saw all our friendly felines behind us. Allright, no swimming here but so what, there was the food and the ouzo!
Sometimes getting back to basics is all you need and following a course that’s guided by nature helps. The Greeks know this well. Plain yogurt with honey and fruit for breakfast, swimming in the sea whenever the mood strikes, and watching a sunset while savoring an ouzo. These are the little glories of Greece that can’t be underestimated. Our time on Samothrace convinced me that there’s so much more to Greece than what we see in brochures and advertisements. Add to that a sense of stepping back in time to when a Greek island wasn’t thronged with tourists and you have something incredibly special. And by the way, cat lovers take note. This island is your mecca.
The country code for Samothrace is 30.
The Tourist Office of the municipality can be reached at 30-25510-41218
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Where to Stay:
Archontissa Beach Hotel – fronting a beautiful pebble beach on the north shore of the Aegean and in the shadow of the mysterious mountains, this 3 star hotel is a gem with a typical island flavor and laid back groove. Air conditioned studios and suites are individually decorated with colorful Greek linens, hangings and rugs and have huge verandas with a view to the sea. All of the 10 studios and 6 suites are equipped with kitchenettes with frig and the hotel serves a wonderful Greek breakfast. This place just feels like home! Wireless internet in the lobby. A quick drive (14 kilometers) from town and close to the charming village of Therma. Mirsines – Therma, Samothraki, GR. 68002. 30-25510-98098 www.samothraki.com
Niki Beach Hotel – a 3 star property with a prime location on the main road at the edge of Kamariotissa. Close to the beach, with 34 rooms and 3 suites all with air conditioning and mini-bar, some with sea views and private balconies. Large pool fronting the sea and free wireless internet. An eclectic mix of contemporary and antique furnishings throughout the hotel give it a warm and cozy atmosphere and the view from the breakfast room is a winner. Kamariotissa, GR. 68002, Samothraki. 30-25510-41545. www.nikibeach.gr
Hotel Kastro – closest hotel to the incredible archeological site, the island’s major attraction, this massive property (by island standards) sits on a hill overlooking the sea approximately 6 kilometers from town on the northwestern coast. The 39 doubles and 11 suites, all with mini bars, are air conditioned and decorated simply. A huge advantage here is the large swimming pool, 2 bars and a restaurant with terrace on site serving home-cooked meals, a full buffet breakfast and fresh baked breads and desserts. Great for groups. Paleopolis, GR. 68002, Samothraki. 30-25510-41000 www.samothraki.com
Where to Eat:
Afoi Charana (Charana Brothers) – situated on the main drag of Kamariotissa, very close to where the ferry docks. Choose your fresh catch of the day and have it pan fried, grilled or baked. Sit outside on the large veranda and enjoy the night air and the street scene with your retsina and your numerous kitty friends. Don’t be put off by the bright lighting, this place (and the crowd) is top notch. Kamariotissa, GR. 68002, Samothraki. 30-25510-41987
To Akrogiali (The Seashore) – set high on a hill overlooking Lakoma beach on the road to Pahia Ammos, this excellent restaurant specializes in fresh fish prepared as you wish as well as a full menu of Greek specialties. Sit in the beautifully trellised garden and wish you lived close by. Sarandos Giorgios, Lakoma Beach, GR. Samothraki. 30-25510-95123
Vrachos – don’t miss a drive up in the mountains to the picturesque hillside village of Profitis Ilias, about 20 minutes from Kamariotissa, where this local favorite serves the island specialty – goat. On the way back down to town, stop and look at the constellations in the sky (a Greek tradition). Apostolos Kalaitzis, Profitis Ilias, GR. Samothraki. 30-25510-95264
Mama’s – how long can you go without Italian? Mama’s serves the best lasagna and spaghetti Bolognese on the island. Don’t look for red and white checked tablecloths, this is Greece after all. On the main drag in Kamariotissa (you’ll get to know it well). Kamariotissa Beach, Samothraki, GR. 68002 30-25510-41100, www.mamas-samothraki.gr
Taverna Skorpios – you can’t miss this pizzeria, sitting proudly on the main street in Kamariotissa because it’s the only one! Serving New England style pizza that’s out of this world, you’ll be glad it’s there when the pizza craving strikes. Kamariotissa, GR. 68002, Samothraki. 30-25510-41741
What to See & Do:
The Beaches – all the island’s beaches are a must see. There are three major ones although the entire northern coast of the island functions as a beach.
Kipos Beach – descend a steep hill at the eastern tip of the island and drive your car right onto this pebbled beach, a picture post card wonder of serpentine rocks and rough sea. This is the place to doff your suit and go full monte into the waves for full disclosure. Think of it as your second Baptism. Scenery here is unmatched and you will leave with a load off your chest.
Pahia Ammos – the island’s main draw as far as beaches go and well worth hanging at. Take a beautiful long and winding drive from Kamariotissa over hills and valleys (about 15 kilometers) to experience paradise. Nestled between two huge rock formations extending into the sea, fine sand and a taverna make this beach a social scene.
Vatos – a nature lover’s dream surrounded by rocks with caves only accessible by boat from Pahia Ammos or by hiking over the mountain. You’ll swim like Tarzan here and the famous Kremastos waterfall slightly east by boat from this fine sand beach empties directly into the sea, a sight to behold.
The Sanctuary of the Gods – the island’s architectural site at Paleopolis (the old city), it is the primary cultural attraction and the original home of the statue of Nike, the Winged Victory. Steeped in mystery, it’s incredibly moving. The island was the center of the occult religion of the Kavirians, whose demon deities worshipped the regeneration of life. At their ceremonies the followers would take an oath of silence. Practice the code of silence yourself at this mystical site, positioned in a thickly overgrown canyon at the base of the mountain. The ruins are dazzling. Not to be missed are the Rotunda of Arsinoe, the Hieron (the colonnaded facade) and the Anaktoron, where the first stage of initiation into the cult took place. The site rivals the Acropolis for sheer size and drama. A small museum on the premises contains a wealth of artifacts and a peek into the island’s peculiar history. The route of discovery begins at the small parking lot in front of the church of Ayia Paraskevi on the coast road about 3 kilometers eastward out of town and follows a cobbled walkway up to the museum and the Sanctuary.
The Fonias Tower – sitting at the edge of the sea, the ruins of this medieval tower, reached by a short hike through the woods, are breathtaking. Off the northern coastal road a few kilometers east of Therma.
Chora, the capital – the quintessential Greek hillside town set 6 kilometers above Kamariotissa with unsurpassed views of the sea, winding streets twisting every which way that are full of surprises and plenty of hungry cats waiting for you.
What to Know When Planning a Visit to Samothrace:
Most people speak English on the island but it’s a good idea to work with a tour operator that can help with hotels and ferries and make suggestions for sightseeing and restaurants. Kanon Cultural Tours & Expeditions is one of the best and offers a 6 day extension to their East Macedonia & Thrace Itinerary that includes Samothrace and the beautiful port city of Kavala on the mainland. www.kanon.gr
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Thinking of heading to Greece?
Here’s a customized itinerary personally recommended by The Squire and organized by the excellent KANON Tours who specialize in cultural expeditions to Greece and beyond.
HIDDEN TREASURES OF NORTHERN GREECE
When most people think of holidays in Greece, they think about Athens or the Greek Islands. However, the entire region of Northern Greece has so much to offer and it would be a shame to miss this beautiful region if you’re planning a visit. In ancient times the area was one of the most powerful in the world thanks to the birth and rise of Alexander The Great. There are many stunning areas and sights in this part of Greece, unlike any other found in the rest of Greece. Northern Greece is a cradle of culture but also deep religious faith with scores of monuments and Byzantine churches. It is visited by thousands of people who come from all over the world to experience the unique diversity as well as the immense wild and natural beauty of the sea and forests.
This flexible program can be combined with visits to Turkey or to the south: Athens, Peloponnese and a 3-4 days cruise in the Aegean to visit the famous islands of Mykonos, Delos, Patmos, Crete & Rhodes.
DAY 1: ARRIVAL IN THESSALONIKI
After completing passport control obligations we will be greeted by our Kanon representative and transferred by private, deluxe air-conditioned motorcoach to our hotel. The rest of the day will be at leisure. Overnight in 5 star hotel.
DAY 2: THESSALONIKI
Morning visit of downtown Thessaloniki. We’ll see the seaside medieval fortification called the White Tower, the Arch of Roman emperor Galerius, the medieval churches on Via Egnatia, all protected by UNESCO and the archaeological museum. Rest of the day free at leisure to enjoy the cosmopolitan feel of this bustling metropolis, shopping, or watching the gorgeous sunset in a café on the seaside. Overnight in 5 star hotel.
DAY 3: THESSALONIKI – ATHOS CRUISE – THESSALONIKI
Today we will visit Chalkidiki, the beach playground of Thessaloniki, to embark on a day cruise around the peninsula of Mt Athos. This unique peninsula is the only place in the world visited by men only, since women are not allowed to step on shore to visit the fascinating monasteries for which Mt Athos is famous. We’ll have lunch in the seaside village of Ouranoupolis, and we’ll be back in Thessaloniki early in the evening. Overnight in 5 star hotel.
DAY 4: THESSALONIKI – VERGINA – MT OLYMPUS – PELION
Morning drive to Vergina, to visit the tomb of Macedonian King Philip, father of Alexander the Great. Continue to Mt Olympus, home of the ancient Gods. Here we’ll have the opportunity to visit this evergreen national park. Continue to Mt Pelion, one of the most beautiful places in Europe: lush forests, great vistas and traditional architecture. This is a must see for visitors. Overnight in a small luxury hotel.
DAY 5: PELION
Full day tour of Pelion. We’ll visit the small towns of Portaria, Zagora and Tsangarada, all a photographer’s paradise. The thickly wooded landscape is extraordinary, and the towns well preserved as centuries ago. We’ll drive along the coast and have lunch at a fish taverna to try the local delicacies. Overnight in a small luxury hotel.
DAY 6: PELION – METEORA
Morning drive to Meteora, one of the greatest sites in Europe. Huge granite towers topped by medieval monasteries form an eerie background. We’ll visit the most important monasteries, which belong are World Heritage sites and admire the stunning frescoes. Overnight in 4 star hotel.
DAY 7: METEORA – PERAMA CAVE – ZAGORIA
Today we’ll have the chance to visit one of the most interesting – and little known – parts of Greece. We’ll drive through the enchanting mountains of Northwest Greece. We’ll try the delicious local food and continue to Perama cave, one of the most important caves in Europe and then to Zagoria, a bunch of small villages at the entrance of Vikos National Park. Overnight in a small luxury hotel.
DAY 8: ZAGORIA
Full day tour of Zagoria’s villages. Traditional architecture, stone bridges, medieval churches, canyons, forests and local folklore form a fascinating picture. Among others, we’ll visit the famous Vikos Gorge, home of the European brown bear, the lynx, the wolf and many other endangered species found nowhere else on the continent. Overnight in a small luxury hotel.
DAY 9: ZAGORIA – PRESPES N.P. – THESSALONIKI
Drive to Prespes National Park, an area rich in flora and fauna at the tri-national border of Greece, Albania and Macedonia. This unique park consists of large lake areas forming wetlands, home to many endangered species of birds and mammals. Drive through evergreen forests and small villages. Arrival back to Thessaloniki in the evening. Overnight in 5 star hotel.
DAY 10: DEPARTURE
Transfer to airport for international departure, or to other areas of Greece.
6-DAY EXTENSION TO EAST MACEDEONIA & THRACE
DAY 1: THESSALONIKI – ANGITIS CAVE – XANTHI – ALEXANDROUPOLIS
Morning drive to Philippi, one of the most important archaeological sites in Northern Greece. Continue to the cave and underground river of Angitis. Next is Xanthi, with a preserved historical center and lively young crowds. Food here is wonderful! You’ll enjoy lunch in one of the many traditional restaurants in the old quarter. Arrival in the port city of Alexandroupolis, home of many traditional seafood tavernas. Overnight in 5 star hotel.
DAY 2: ALEX/POLIS ( DADIA – FYLAKTO – MESIMVRIA – MARONIA )
Full day tour of this little known part of Thrace. Visit the Dadia wildlife reserve, one of the most important vulture spotting places in Europe. Continue to Fylakto, home of one of the oldest petrified forests in Europe, then to Mesimvria an ancient city built on the Aegean shore and finally Maronia, another ancient city where fabulous mosaics were discovered amidst centuries old olive groves. Overnight in Alexandroupolis in a 5 star hotel.
DAY 3: ALEXANDROUPOLIS – SAMOTHRACE
In the morning we’ll embark on a ferry and after two hours, step foot on one of the most mysterious places on Earth: the island of Samothrace. Remainder of the day at leisure. Overnight in 3 star hotel.
DAY 4: SAMOTHRACE
Full day tour of this unique island. Samothrace was home to an ancient cult called the mystiria ( mysteries). We’ll visit the ruins of the ancient temple and town then walk through the deep forest to the waterfalls, where we’ll have the chance to take a refreshing dip in a natural mountain pool. Later we’ll enjoy the sunset from the ruined castle atop the well preserved medieval main town of Chora. Overnight in a 3 star hotel.
DAY 5: ALEXANDROUPOLIS – SAMOTHRACE
Embark on the ferry back to Alexandroupolis and drive back to Thessaloniki via the old town of Kavala. Overnight in 5 star hotel.
DAY 6: DEPARTURE
Transfer to airport for international departure, or to other areas of Greece