Better Than Ever
By the end of May in New Orleans you can easily find yourself with a case of the summertime blues. This year, mine were bad. With temperatures nearing 100 for days on end, 90 degrees felt like a cold snap. I knew I had to get away but with a recession-minded budget my travel options at first glance didn’t look great. That is, until I considered San Francisco. If you’ve ever dreamed of driving a convertible over monumental bridges, speeding along narrow roads and winding up around lushly forested hills, San Francisco would be the reality to live out that dream. On the other side of the coin, if you long to get in touch with your inner hippie and uncover the origins of the beatnik phenomenon and experience the neighborhoods and haunts that inspired it, there is certainly no better place to do it than San Francisco.
San Fran is often called “Fog City” and anyone roasting right now in a hot, humid climate can rest assured that the city didn’t get its nickname by accident. Not only is it mysteriously fog prone but for a California town, more often than not the weather’s not hot. In fact, in the middle of June, there were moments when it felt downright chilly (this coming from New Orleans, of course). But it isn’t the fog that makes the “city by the bay” the gem that it is – though the fog certainly helps. I would have to say the city’s greatness lies first in its beauty and second in the abundance of superb 
and affordable restaurants. The third reason San Fran is totally great is the innate mystery the town possesses – walking down any San Francisco street can instantly feel downright cinematic. In fact, movie lovers cannot help but connect the breathtaking landscape of San Francisco with Alfred Hitchcock’s film Vertigo. Filmed in various locations there, it shows a city of steep hills and rocky precipices, suspense and grandeur, deep blue skies against stark white, Spanish-style churches and oceanic vistas of the Pacific. Vertigo is a psychological thriller that eerily matches the city’s DNA. Whether or not you’re a Hitchcock fan and even if you’ve never seen Vertigo, San Francisco has the undeniable characteristics of one of the film’s stars, Kim Novak, the blonde, of course: astonishingly beautiful, culturally rich and mysterious.
When gold was discovered in the Sierra Mountains and the foothills to the east of San Francisco, it was brought there and lavishly spent on the infrastructure and beautification of the city. Before the rush, there were 400 people in the city but two years later in 1849 that number grew to more than 20,000 residents. In 1906 an earthquake and fire destroyed most of the city, but it was quickly rebuilt, perhaps contributing to the town’s multilayered personality, a bit like New Orleans in that respect. Take for instance the city’s trolleys, streetcars and cable cars. Not only are these relics from a bygone era visually stunning and efficient but the rest of San Francisco’s public transportation system is also extremely eco-sensitive, not to mention reasonably priced. You can go just about anywhere you want on the cars, including Chinatown, an incredibly genuine treat north of Union Square.
Strolling through Chinatown, past herbal shops, temples and pagoda roofs, it’s easy to forget that it’s just one small piece in the puzzle of this densely populated city. Sandwiched between North Beach and Nob Hill, it is the largest Chinatown outside of Asia. As intricately constructed as the pagodas but of a completely different style are the city’s Golden Gate and Bay Bridges, emblematic of a classic elegance and architecture. Almost everywhere in the city you can catch a glimpse of one of these astonishing structures, but for a birds’ eye view, head up to Coit Tower.
Located in the Telegraph Hill neighborhood adjacent to North Beach, Coit Tower was constructed in 1933 at the bequest of Lillie Hitchcock Coit (no relation to Alfred) “for the purpose of adding beauty to the city.” The tower contains stunning murals by 26 different artists completed as public works projects toward the beginning of the New Deal’s federal employment programs for artists. These murals and the tower grounds are impressive, but it’s the view seen from the top of the tower that will knock your socks off. Whether you visit day or night – and both timeframes are superb – savor a panoramic vista of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, Pier 39, Angel Island, Treasure Island, the Bay Bridge, Russian Hill, the Financial District, Lombard Street and Nob Hill. The tower is only a short walk from Fisherman’s Wharf but a short and steep climb up the Filbert Steps, a system of wooden and concrete steps that lead to the top from various directions, making the climb direct from almost anywhere at the bottom.
From Coit Tower, head just a few blocks back to the center of North Beach, San Francisco’s Little Italy. While fewer Italian-Americans are living there now, Italian restaurants and bakeries line the streets, with all the smells of the best Italian ingredients wafting over you. The neighborhood is also San Francisco’s “red-light district,” and was a hotspot for the punk movement in the 1980s. Long before that in the 1950s, North Beach was the center of the Beat Generation and gave rise to the term “beatnik.” An alley off Columbus Avenue between Kearney Street and Broadway is named for Jack Kerouac, the beat writer who once lived there. Take a walk down Jack Kerouac Alley to the renowned City Lights Bookstore whose founder and owner, poet Louis Ferlinghetti, once faced an obscenity trial for publishing Howl and Other Poems, Allen Ginsberg’s poetry collection.
Should you have a yearning to get into the natural beauty of the city, head west to the Presidio. Memorable for its lushly wooded grounds and Spanish architecture, San Francisco’s Presidio is a park on the northern tip of the San Francisco peninsula. Once a Spanish military fort, it’s comprised of several military bunkers and a historic cemetery with spectacular views of the Golden Gate Bridge, the San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean. It also houses a marine center and is a great spot to end a bicycle ride over the Golden Gate Bridge. Should you want to stay more central, tour the infamous Haight Ashbury neighborhood. From there you’re close enough to Golden Gate Park, a huge urban oasis right in the city center and home to the de Young Memorial Museum, recently re-defined by Switzerland’s starchitectural team of Herzog & de Meuron. Also worth hours of your time is the California Academy of Sciences and The Japanese Tea Garden (reportedly the site of the fortune cookie’s introduction to American culture). Add a botanical garden and Stow Lake which surrounds Strawberry Hill, an island with an electrically pumped waterfall and bison paddock boasting a small herd of buffalo and you have a full day of activities.
Don’t even think about leaving San Francisco without trying at least one Mexican restaurant and my vote is to order a Mission-style burrito. The burrito is to San Francisco what the pizza is to Chicago and New York. San Franciscan-born and bred and characterized by its size and the quantity of rice, beans, avocado and sour cream, it’s a meal rolled into a giant homemade tortilla. Dig in and savor the intense flavors of the salsa and beans. Now hop the #11 Market trolley back to your hotel and get ready for another day in paradise.
The area code for San Francisco is 415.
EDITOR’S NOTE
A complete guide to the endless joys of San Francisco has been compiled here by the TravelSquire editors.
WHERE TO STAY
The St. Regis – spring for an executive corner suite where the wraparound views will hypnotize you. If they don’t the bath menu should do the trick. 125 3rd Street. (415) 284-4000.www.starwoodhotels.com
The W San Fran – as we all know, expect the unexpected here. This SOMA (South of Market) hang out is perfect if you’re travelling solo. 181 Third Street. 415-777-5300.www.wsanfrancisco.com
Hyatt Fisherman’s Wharf – why not enjoy the endless pleasures of SF’s top tourist destination from your window? This Hyatt occupies a prime spot of real estate and the chic, cozy lobby will easily impress spontaneously invited friends. 555 North Point Street. +1 415 563 1234.www.fishermanswharf.hyatt.com
Hyatt Regency Embarcadero – Try this financial district gem with a 360 degree view of the stunning bay area from the rooftop lounge (martini, in hand, of course). Like feeling important? This is your place. 5 Embarcadero Center. +1 415 788 1234.www.sanfranciscoregency.hyatt.com
Hotel Diva – you can finally exercise your inner diva somewhere that’s got your back! The Design Within Reach suite is where you should be shooting for optimum results. 440 Geary Street. 415-885-0200 .www.hoteldiva.com
Triton Hotel – practically a San Fran institution, you’ll love seeing the gates of Chinatown every morning. Stay in the Jerry Garcia celebrity suite and have plenty of Ben & Jerry’s Cherry Garcia on hand for afterhours noshing. 342 Grant Avenue. 415.394.0500.www.hoteltriton.com
Hotel Abri – This urban hotel close to Union Square provides a home away from home atmosphere with a full living room with sofa bed, foyer, and en suite bath leading to a cozy bedroom. Great spot for entertaining a few guests before venturing out for the evening. 127 Ellis Street. 415-392-8800. www.larkspurhotels.com/collection/abri
WHERE TO EAT
Zuni – there’s a reason why their drum is still beating after 20 years … oysters! And the servers ain’t bad lookin’ either. 1658 Market Street between Franklin & Gough. 415-552-2522.
Cafe Divine – feel like a taste of Little Italy? After stomping those hills in North Beach, you’ll need a Campari & Soda, right? 1600 Stockton Street on Washington Square. 415-986-3414.www.cafedivinesf.com
Spruce – don your best basic black and grab a seat at the bar for a nightcap and a snack. With over 60 wines by the glass who could complain? Is that Robin Williams at the other end of the bar? 3640 Sacramento Street. 415-931-5100. www.sprucesf.com
The Cliff House – there’s something to be said for enjoying Sunday brunch perched on a bluff overlooking the crashing surf. Oh yeah, have another Bloody Mary then try to convince someone about that whale you spotted. 1090 Point Lobos. 415-386-3330. www.cliffhouse.com
Knuckles – when you’re having a burger fix while sightseeing Fisherman’s Wharf, this place will set you back on your track, after sampling a few of their 15 beers on tap, of course. Get a booth with a personal iPad. Ready for Alcatraz? 555 North Point Street. 415-563-1234. www.fishermanswharf.hyatt.com
The Grove – who gets excited about breakfast? You will after having yours here. The biggest “small” orange juice I’ve ever seen (are the oranges bigger in California?). If this is your only meal of the day, have it here. 690 Mission St (between Annie St & 3rd St). 415-957-0558.http://www.yelp.com/biz/the-grove-cafe-yerba-buena-san-francisco
Market Cafe – feel like sitting and watching SF go by? Have a seat at one of the cafe tables on the wide sidewalk with your back to the bay. There goes the antique street car from Milan! One Ferry Building.415- 983-8030. www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com
Papalote Mexican Grill – why not eat the famous Mission burrito in the Mission District? Take a break from exploring the trendy neighborhood and have one here. Voted Best Burrito four years in a row by SF Weekly, this restaurant promises a burrito that you won’t forget when you get back home. 3409 24th Street. 415- 970-8815.
Kingdom Cake – indulge your sweet tooth and devour one of their fabulous cupcakes after the strenuous climb to Coit Tower. Have you ever had a Pina Colada cupcake? To die from! 524 Union St. 415-860-1142.
WHERE TO DRINK
Bourbon & Branch – a former Prohibition speakeasy, that specializes in top shelf booz and market fresh cocktails, this place is sexy, secretive and perfect for trysting. Enter only by gaining an access code online and showing up at your allotted time. 501 Jones Street. 415-346-1735.
Bubble Lounge – SF’s premiere champagne bar with over 300 champagnes and sparkling wines. Aren’t you celebrating being in San Francisco? 714 Montgomery Street. 415-434-4204.www.bubblelounge.com
Lush – any bar that’s got a fireplace and a Tamara de Lempicka print on the wall can’t be bad, right? A cozy, earthy ambience allows for easy conversation at their daily happy hour and the $5.00 blueberry martini won’t set you back. 1221 Polk Street. 415-771-2022.www.lushloungesf.com
Rye – a chill spot in the Tenderloin to relax with newfound friends and order lofty drinks like The Vertigo or a Basil Gimlet. 688 Geary St. 415-474-4448.
Sugar Lounge – remember what Mary said … just a spoonful of sugar? Have it in your fresh watermelon mojito here at this Hayes Valley institution with complementary appetizers at happy hour. 377 Hayes Street. 415-255-7144.
www.sugarloungesf.com
Revolution Cafe – hang out with Mission area hipsters at this ultimate dive bar that’s got the goods. 3248 22nd Street. 415-642-0474.
WHAT TO SEE
Golden Gate Park – Check out the California Academy of Sciences here among the lush greenery. It’s the only place on the planet with an aquarium, a planetarium, a natural history museum and a 4-story rainforest all under one roof. Want more? Nah! 55 Music Concourse Dr., Golden Gate Park. 415-379-8000.
Golden Gate Bridge – the original one and only, and painted lipstick red. Make sure there’s enough space on your chip before you start snapping away. Be daring and ride a bike. Golden Gate Bridge. 415-921-5858.http://goldengatebridge.org
Alcatraz Island – nothing compares with time spent at The Rock. Still a mysterious presence in the Bay and one that mirrors the city’s mystery, too. Ferries leave every 30 minutes. 888-814-2305.http://www.alcatraztickets.com/
Lands End – don’t miss this awesome spectacle of nature. Dress warm, the winds are gale force.
Coit Tower – admire the amazing Diego Rivera-esque murals before boarding the tiny elevator bound for one of the best views ever. 1 Telegraph Hill Boulevard. 415-362-0808.
WHAT TO DO
Napa Valley Wine Train – who knew that you could experience the breathtaking beauty of NV from a cushy seat in a meticulously restored vintage rail car? Save your energy for that next incredible Cabernet Sauvignon coming down the aisle. 1275 McKinstry Street, Napa, California 94559. 1-800-427-4124.www.winetrain.com
Red and White Fleet – get on the sunset cruise on San Francisco Bay and catch all the famous landmarks with a Tequila Sunrise in hand. Better sit down when the bridge looms in front of you. Pier 43½. 415-673-2900.www.redandwhite.com
Beach Blanket Babylon – a zany musical spoof of pop culture and the world’s longest running musical revue. Playing at Club Fugazi in North Beach, the nexus of the Beat Generation and San Fran’s Little Italy. Hang in the neighbourhood afterward, a nightlife hub. 678 Beach Blanket Babylon Boulevard (Green Street). 415-421-4222. www.beachblanketbabylon.com
Cable Car Ride – take the old Powell/Hyde Line and hop off at Lombard Street, then sprint quickly down the eight hairpin turns of the crookedest street in the U.S.http://www.sfmta.com
WHERE TO SHOP
Paul’s Hat Works – don’t miss a visit to this custom hatter in the Richmond District where you can exercise your flights of fancy while trying on some their inventive chapeaus. Remember the Royal Wedding? Spring for a custom look; you can’t go wrong with a top hat on Halloween or New Year’s. 6128 Geary Boulevard. 414-221-5332. www.hatworksbypaul.com
WHERE TO READ MORE ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO HISTORY
City Lights Bookstore – Why not expand your mind while in San Francisco and learn more about the beat generation? This independent bookstore is the place for the curious traveler to take a break and get studious. 261 Columbus Ave. 415-362-8193. www.citylights.com