Santa Catalina: Waiting for You 26 Miles Across the Sea

More than six decades ago, Southern California’s island of Catalina was memorialized in the Four Preps’ song, 26 Miles, in reference to its proximity to the populous region’s coastline. And though almost everything in the nation has changed in that expanse of time, Catalina remains unchanged.

It’s been years since my many day trips here. I expected it would be different. Perhaps not better, just different. I predicted more people, less charm. Verdict: wrong. So, for an insider’s peek at today’s Catalina, read on.

Relaxation Begins Enroute

Relax as you skip across the waves aboard Catalina Express. This passenger ferry service operates from the three mainland harbors of San Pedro, Long Beach, and Dana Point. On-board perks include a cocktail bar and luggage check-in. And, depending on the port of departure, a peaceful 60- to 90-minute voyage. On some days, sighting dolphins and whales adds a bonus to the ride.

“Welcome to Avalon,” reads the sign greeting disembarking passengers here in this town of less than 4,000 residents—California’s only island getaway. After collecting my luggage, I take a short walk along Crescent Avenue. the appropriately named croissant-shaped street fronting the harbor leads to the Bellanca Hotel. Perfectly positioned, the newly-renovated 40-room boutique property sits in the middle of the destination’s low-key action. Nearby finds include the waterfront, the iconic casino, and the Crescent, a predominately pedestrian-only thoroughfare with an eclectic assortment of restaurants and shops.

Elements of the understated, beachside inn are comfortable, yet smart—from its ocean view rooftop deck to its small, patio-fronted Naughty Fox restaurant. The food at this casual, open-air eatery with its lime green décor is exceptionally good. With Chef Russell Hayden (formerly of the Ace Hotel in Palm Springs) at the helm, my breakfast favorites included the selection of island bennies (choice of pork belly, avocado, lobster, sausage or smoked fish eggs Benedict) and a lobster BLT later in the day.  Tip: don’t miss the side of papas bravas. The restaurant serves as a people-watching paradise —from a zipping-down-the-hill skateboarder carrying a sleeping bag to a purple-haired gal with her dog in tow touring in her golf cart.

Living on Island Time

Advised to “set your clock to island time,” that’s not a difficult accomplishment if you’re lucky to have snagged rooms #503 or #504. Both include private balconies overlooking the bustling harbor dotted with sailboats, powerboats, and the occasional cruise ship. And when you’re finally out the door and into the streets, more adventures await. Two musts: renting a golf cart and taking the bison expedition. Though most visitors self-tour in golf carts (more on that to come), the best way to see Catalina is a two-hour, four-wheeling adventure that explores the grounds of the approximately 150 American bison (aka buffalo).

My tour was led by Andrew. A homegrown guide, his Indiana Jones-style driving in an open-air Hummer set the stage for adventure. Take note of the notice at boarding: “All scenic tours travel on steep, narrow, winding, bumpy, dusty mountain roads.” Before we leave Andrew issues a slew of warnings discouraging passengers with back issues and fear of heights. The response from the Hummer full of passengers: “Have you ever lost anybody?” Everyone laughs, but we’re all cautiously excited.

On the road, we spot indented paths weaving across the hillsides indicating the bison’s migration patterns. Then, we follow the original 19th-century stagecoach route through historic Middle Ranch. Finally, we head up rugged Cape Canyon to the scenic overlook on Blackjack Mountain. At 2,000 feet, it’s the island’s second highest point. The journey proves exhilarating, not petrifying at all. And, we wind up seeing more than a dozen bison, a coup!

More Santa Catalina Explorations

To better explore the tiny eight-square-mile town of Avalon we hop in a golf cart from Catalina Golf Cart Rental. Setting out on a suggested route, we begin on Pebbly Beach Road. We pass the former Wrigley Mansion and continue to an assortment of lookouts, the town’s pet cemetery, and onto the former spring training field of the Chicago Cubs. On the edge of town sits Catalina Casino—the island’s most visible landmark. Recognized as “an emblem of the island” since its 1929 opening, it boasts a storied history of hosting world-renowned entertainers.

A short walk away is the stylish “open to the public” Descanso Beach Club. A bastion of relaxation, the club offers cabana rentals and a private beach. Its beachside bar serves waterfront views with its signature cocktails.

Island-style shopping goes hand in hand with good eating in Avalon, with the following mentions just a sampling of the possibilities.

Lobster Trap is a legendary hangout with its bright blue mural-like exterior and fresh catch selection. It’s casual and clever with signage like, “Notice: If you’re drinking to forget . . . please pay in advance.”

For a more elegant dining experience, try M Restaurant. Italian-inspired, the kitchen demonstrates a flair for seafood.  Craving an after-dinner treat? Look for the oversized ice cream cone at the entrance of Lloyd’s of Avalon Confectionery, a local sweet shoppe since 1941.

Though I’ve visited Catalina many times, my first overnight stay presented a different destination. One to be savored slowly. So, travel across the waves to this island idyll defined by red rooftops, a low-profile townscape, and a soothing informality. It’s truly Southern California’s Mediterranean-like getaway.