Aloha
Chinese inscriptions on ancient rock formations in the scenic Tianya Haijao or the “remotest corner of the Earth” twenty kilometers from Sanya encapsulate the traditional belief that the world is in China and the country’s southernmost shore, the Hainan province, is in fact the end of the world. In adherence with this “world in China” theme, even Hawaii has been incorporated into the landscape. It’s a collective hula of two giant pineapples popping from the roof of Sanya’s Phoenix International Airport, a clear blue sky, vibrant green foliage, hibiscus, orchids and plantations of luscious mangos, bananas and coconut trees, as well as true “Hawaii” dress code, voluntary of course, for locals and tourists. Sanya, the “Forever Tropical Paradise”, is a new concept with a Hawaiian footprint that’s created an illusion for the southeast Asian visitor which is hard to resist. Success is due to the fact that this second populous city of Hainan, shares some common features with Hawaii … namely, a tropical climate and the same latitude.
I was on a three day exploratory trip, a detour from the much traversed Shenzhen/Beijing/Shanghai arc. November was the perfect month, no need to pack woolens, and this also explained the busloads of tourists from cold northern mainland China as well as eastern European cities making a beeline for the white sandy beaches along the coast.
Sanya city turned out to be newly developing with residential blocks, alleys, restaurants and tea shops swathed in the aroma of food. The main shopping area is concentrated on Sanya Walk Street, twenty minutes from both Yalong and Sanya Bay and just five minutes from the nightlife strip of Dadonghi. Walk Street is a veritable beehive with two to four story buildings linked by bridges that lead to floors fully stocked with garments, shoes, jewelry, CDs and DVDs, suitcases, leather goods and more. The surprise element is signage in English, Chinese and Russian. Sanya is a favored Russian destination with many businesses catering to Russian sensibilities. The reason is, as a Russian tourist at a restaurant on Jiefang Road said, “Sanya is affordable with direct connecting flights.” Towards dinnertime the restaurant was crowded with eastern Europeans, Chinese tourists and an Indian couple.
While window shopping on Walk Street I was accosted by a female hawker in a straw hat draped in multicolored strings of pearls begging for ‘look-a, look-a’. It was difficult to get away from her until she found another target. Pearl diving and selling is a household industry in Sanya and they can be purchased both from kiosks or accredited showrooms. The kiosks are one step ahead and are ready with scissors to scrap a pearl to gain confidence …“look, look, no scratch”, until you’re ready to buy one. Bargaining is an art leaving one wondering if the figure couldn’t have come down even further.
Making my way through the mass of gawkers and shoppers at night, I came across a wedding store called “New York, New York Wedding” with live models resplendent in white gowns posed in front of the store. The still life figures were intriguing so I tried to determine whether they were selling gowns or photography sessions. I was there during the annual International Wedding Festival from November 18-21 which accounted for the wedding frenzy in the city. During this time couples gather at Tianya Haijiao, near Sanya City, to celebrate their marriage or anniversaries with nature as witness to their declaration of eternal love. There were at least three weddings in the garden of the Sheraton Sanya Resort where I stayed with guests camped out poolside to view the blissful endings.
By now the traffic was getting chaotic and after four attempts to flag a cab I had to call the driver who brought me there. A smiling young man, different from the surly cabbies encountered, he had given me his card in case I needed help with sightseeing. My hotel was about thirty kilometers from the city and I had no idea of bus services but still managed to return in time for dinner at the Spice Garden, the Pan Asian restaurant and enjoyed the ambience under the stars.
The sprawling Sheraton Sanya Resort along the crystal clear blue waters of the South China Sea with verdant tropical foliage follows the Chinese architectural forms and thus exudes “expansive” features. The spaciousness is reflected in the entertainment and conference facilities, the landscaped gardens and segmented swimming pools, a sweeping lobby lounge topped by a red Ferrari display and a white piano, a kind’ve cherry on the top presentation. If given a choice spend three days in the Resort to avail of its private beach and spa facilities and you’ll also be pleasantly surprised to not be hedged in by other guests while there even on weekends.
Situated in the exclusive Yalong Bay, forty minutes from the airport and about twenty from downtown Sanya, this nine year old property with 511 rooms and private villas made news for hosting the 2010 Miss World pageant. I missed the excitement by a mere week. My suite with balconies overlooking the banana and coconut palms, a personal Jacuzzi, cushy sitting areas and high speed internet was certainly deluxe in all aspects. The boon for me of course was the free Wi-Fi connection in the lobby along with computers for a timed usage.
Next day was bright and sunny, perfect for a day trip to the butterfly shaped Wuzhizhou Island, off the coast of Hainan, China and about thirty kilometers northeast of Sanya. The Hawaiian togetherness was prominently displayed with couples, families and friends in identical printed shorts and shirts. The beach was crowded with few braving the hot sun but rather trying out surfing, water scooter rides and scuba diving. The clear blue skies and cool sea breeze along with an underwater treasure trove of over 2000 varieties of coral reef sea life, lobsters and Spanish mackerel is a novelty for the majority of visitors. The facilities are comparatively new, more or less a resort in construction stage, so there are few areas that are covered or green. Still, one can squat on the sand or the rocks and enjoy freshly cooked fish. Not a fish lover by nature, after a bit the air became too much for me so I decided to return to the Sheraton and enjoy some quiet time at my own private beach. Another reason for my early departure was that ferries would be crowded by evening.
Along with the tree lined avenues of Yalong and Asian Dragon Bay, golf courses, butterfly and shell museums, beach resorts and diving centers there are the beaches of Dadonghai, Sanya and Hainan closer to Sanya city. Also, about forty kilometers from Sanya is the Nanshan Cultural Tourism Zone, highlighting Buddhist culture, with a theme park and a 108 meter high Buddha constructed on a man-made island. The temple with its golden deities was once a place of mystic reflection.
Another interesting place is Luhuitou Park, where lovers put padlocks on chains hoping for lasting love. If you’re in need of some rejuvenation you can try out the hot springs at Nantian, visit the Fairy Caves, the Tiger and Crocodile center, Nan Wan Monkey Island and the crystal and pearl factories.
Departure time found the airport with deserted shops and cafes shuttered until two hours before take-off, with the trooping in of customs and immigration officials and the arrival of chartered buses with tourists. Then it was a rush to find vacant chairs in the open air food court with a limited choice of sandwiches and drinks. Minutes later pre-boarding, frantic licks of an ice cream savored the last bit of the tropics before going home.
Some important things to know about Sanya:
- Currency is RMB and can be changed at the Bank of China or some hotels.
- Sanya’s Phoenix International Airport is 18 km from downtown Sanya. Taxi fare RMB 40 and bus fare is RMB 15.
- Train connections can be made from Chinese cities.
The country code for Sanya is 86.
Where to Stay
The Sheraton Sanya Resort: located on the shore of the South China Sea and only 38km form the scenic Tianya Haijo, this hotel is a luxurious setting for any traveler.
Hanian. 898 8855 8855. www.starwoodhotels.com
Pullman Sanya Yalong Bay: This is a hotel with a friendly attitude and great cuisine. Not far from the pristine sands of the Sun Bay and Yalong Bay. Yalong Bay, Hanian. 866 599 6674. www.pullmanhotels.com
Mandarin Oriental: Nestled on the shore near the Dadonghai beach, this is a great resort with spacious rooms and good service. 12 Yuhai Road, Sanya City 57200 Hanian, PRC. 898 8820 9999. www.madarinoriental.com
Where to Eat
Haiya Restaurant: Located around downtown Sanya, this restaurant is a good place to get a taste of local Hanian cuisine. N. 001 Xinfeng Road, Sanya. 0898 88276962.
Zheng Zong Bao Lou Fen: Get a taste of the traditional Hanian rice noodle, the Luo Fen, which swims in a tasty soup and spiced with a zestful flavors.Located near the No.1 Market on Hexi Road. 898 88142010.
Spice Garden: Wonderful ambience under the stars, very romantic. Also great for the healthy conscious eater. 8855 8855.
What to Do
Nanshan Temple: 40km from Sanya City, take some time to experience the spiritual side of the Hanian culture. Taking up 66 acres, the temple is the largest Buddhist preaching site since the founding of the People’s Republic of China. Admission Fee: $23. Open from 8AM to 6PM. Yacheng Town Sanya, Hanian Island. 898 888 37985.
www.nanshantemple.com
Nanwan Monkey Island: Take a day’s trip and hang out at Nanwan Monkey Island, where you can well, monkey around and take a ride on the longest oversea ropeway. Located south of Lingshui County.
The Li and Miao Minority Village: You can get a real taste of culture by getting a look at authentic rituals, shops and restaurants to the Li and Miao people. 28km from Sanya. Be sure to say blong, the Miao word for hello.