Skiing the Austrian Alps

The last rays of steely blue sunlight are just beginning to fade as I settle into the Nederhütte, an old-world style ski hut nestled in the Austrian Alps toward the bottom of a ski run. Inside, men are in lederhosen and ski boots, countless dancing with hands raised grabbing at pear schnapps while kids up on wooden tables look on at the scene. The Nederlumpen band has mom on drums, dad and son on guitars, and they are rockin’. In a matter of minutes I’m convinced that this could be the most happening happy hour anywhere in the Alps. It’s my welcome to the ski resort of Obergurgl in the Ötztal Valley.

My trip here is part of an Innsbruck- Ötztal circuit that I’ve mapped out in order to ski a variety of resorts, all within easy reach of one another and within proximity to Innsbruck, the capital of the Tyrol. This is in western Austria, directly opposite Vienna in the east. I had begun my ski sojourn in Innsbruck, a charming Austrian city, and twice host to the Winter Olympics (1964 and 1976).

Innsbruck

Innsbruck, photo James Cridland

Innsbruck is a city of glittering spires set against a backdrop of towering, snow-capped mountains with the Inns River meandering along its edge. It has an imperial past, being a favored spot for emperors and empresses of the royal Hapsburg dynasty. The main pedestrian zone in Old Town is named after Empress Maria-Theresa and it’s the primary touristic hub with colorful Baroque buildings, historic landmarks, cafes and boutiques. Given multiple visits there, I always know to glance upward to catch a glimpse of one of the most famous sights – the watchtower, the palace, or the Golden Roof, a 16^th century royal residence capped with a gold-plated roof. Far and away my favorite sights, however, remain the Tyrolean Folk Art Museum and the neighboring “Black Men”, 28 larger than life knightly statues honoring the memory of Emperor Maximilian I and holding court in a church. Each one is more imposing and impressive than the next.

Golden Roof, Old Town, photo Mariano Mantel

But I’ve come here for the skiing, and never far from view is the iconic Bergisel Ski Jump as well as the Nordkette cable cars that whisk skiers from the city center to high mountain terrain in just 20 minutes. There are five ski areas in the Innsbruck vicinity — including a glacier. From the Nordkette cable cars, the easy magic-carpet areas of Seegrube are accessible, as are extreme areas such as the Hafelekarrinne, one of the steepest ski runs in Europe. Around Innsbruck, there’s a fine line between urban sophistication and the ruggedness of outback skiing. The Stubai Glacier is also not far away which features 35 pistes (runs) for skiing and snowboarding nearly into the summer. An Austrian friend of mine says he never bores of the glacier, even after 40+ years of skiing.

Stubai Glacier, photo Jakub Hlavaty

Kuhtai

Khutai

I take a liking to the quaint town of Kühtai, arriving by free shuttle bus from the steps of my Innsbruck hotel, the five-star Grand Hotel Europa. During season these run at regular intervals to a number of local resorts, winding their way through picturesque countryside. It’s less than an hour before I’m at Kuhtai, the highest of Austrian ski resorts at 6,000 feet.

Given the altitude, snow conditions are almost always favorable in Kuhtai, and the mountain offers leisurely, family friendly runs (black runs are more limited). What’s especially convenient for my small group is that the advanced skiers can take off in one direction and meet up later with the others who might be still be tackling the beginner slopes. There’s no risk of getting “lost” on these slopes as it’s a small mountain and an even smaller town — but big on charm. Most hotels are right along or across from the slopes including the four-star Hotel Konradin, just steps from the lifts. (It’s also directly across from the neatest Kuhtai bar for nightlife, Fiasco; walk downstairs to its Alpine-style disco.) The Hotel Astoria is another favorite, family-run like many Austrian ski resorts.

Hochoetz, photo Cha già José

Just across the pass from Kuhtai is a second ski mountain, Hochoetz, which offers more sweeping terrain and broad, open expanses that I relish (wind notwithstanding; thank you chairlift wind protection shields!). One lift ticket allows skiers access to either mountain, and while it’s not impossible to ski both in a day, crossing from one to the other, I find it easier to pick one and stick with it.

Then it’s onward with my circuit, as I head to that tongue-twister of a location, Obergurgl-Hochgurgl (impossible for an American to say fast).

Obergurgl-Hochgurgl

Obergugrl-Hochgurgl

I had some hesitation going to a place I could barely pronounce. I told friends I was heading to ober-this … or ober-that but once there, the name slipped off my tongue with ease. Collectively, Obergurgl-Hochgurgl forms a large resort area with a wide array of pistes for a variety of skiing levels. It’s slightly further than Kuhtai but still only about 1 ½ hours by bus or car. Obergurgl is the main town and it’s several times the size of Kuhtai, with the small hamlet of Hochgurgl and its mountain nearby.

Obergurgl Town, photo Rita Willaert

The mountain is scenic to say the least, the “Diamond of the Alps” as it’s called. There’s no richer view than from the Top Mountain Star bar with its 360 degree panorama at 9,000 feet. Between runs I indulge in local Austrian specialties there — and the requisite pretzel and beer — before continuing my exploration of almost 70 miles of slopes with 24 lift options!  An express lift whisks me between the two mountains, so it’s not hard to switch off. If it’s Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday or Saturday, however, I’m told I must finish toward the Obergurgl side, so I can swoosh down to the Nederhütte for the incomparable après-ski happy hour. Nederhütte is not exactly at the bottom of the mountain, but oh so close; for skiers indulging in one too many pear schnapps and not feeling ski-worthy afterwards, the hut offers snowmobile service to the gondola base.

The town has traffic-controlled streets so it’s pedestrian friendly. My boots lead me to the four-star Hotel Madeleine, which has tasteful accommodations — and one of the most charming spas I’ve ever seen. An intimate wellness area features an infrared cabin, whirlpool, steam bath, Finnish sauna, bio-sauna, ice fountain, warm relaxing seats, and a relaxation area with mountain views. If not for the lure of the mountain’s runs, the call of this serene spa could easily keep me indoors.

Obergurgl-Hochgurgl base looking at Top Mountain Star, photo Rob Beardy

Instead, I choose to tackle the diamond runs. Doing so, time and again I meet travelers who’ve come from far afield to reach this little bit of heaven in the Austrian Alps. The appeal, they tell me, is that it’s still somewhat undiscovered, with no lift lines and the best happy hour in the Alps — but of course, I already knew that.

I reflect on the more glitzy resorts like St. Moritz, Gstaad or Kitzbuhl. (Last time I was at the latter, I wondered whether it had been annexed by Moscow given its clientele). Certainly there are trendier places to see and be seen than in the Innsbruck and Ötztal Valley. But I’ve had enough of chasing the scene. Old-world charm never goes out of style.

Ötztal Alps, Obergurgl

And that, my friends, sums up the Inns and Ötz of Austrian skiing.

 

www.innsbruck.info, www.oetztal.com

www.austria.info