After years of traveling to the dual nationality island of St Marten/St Martin for a yearly respite from our hectic lives and after years of paying quite a bit of money on hotels, we finally bought a villa in the French Lowlands. For years we would fantasize about what life must be like “on the other side of the wall.” Now we know. It’s divine. For the past seven years, we’ve been “locals” building friendships with the native St. Maartners/St. Martiners and expats from the United States, the United Kingdom, France and Belgium. It is a most interesting life.
Over the years, tax advantages and the beautiful lifestyle brought a new generation of entrepreneurial French citizens along with “cowboys” from the United States and the European Union. More frequent flights brought more tourists, but best of all, they brought gorgeous fresh food. New food markets and wine shops offer outstanding gourmet products. Today, the island is referred to as the food capital of the Caribbean and the gleaming new Princess Juliana Airport is the second busiest hub next to San Juan.
Landings and takeoffs are still a fabulous source of entertainment. Locals and tourists alike mingle at the Sunset Beach Bar located on Maho Beach at the base of the runway. Watching Air France’s huge Airbus and KLM’s 747 land and then take off is something else. You can’t imagine a plane that huge almost touching the water as it drops to earth. Plus, you can munch on a great burger or swordfish sandwich washed down by a ti punch – the island’s zingy mainstay.
You can dine out everyday for a week and still not exhaust the possibilities. Choose from French, Indonesian, Indian, Japanese, Moroccan, Lebanese, Mexican, Thai, Italian and more.
If you want to really “go native”, opt for a long lunch at a great beach restaurant, where you can combine great food, wines, and interesting friends with the beach. While you can generally snag a table during the week without a reservation, you MUST make reservations on Saturday and Sunday. These places are local favorites and most are not open for dinner except one or two nights a week. Try a bottle of white or rosé Sancerre, or Muscadet with lunch. A couple of our favorite spots include:
Layla’s in Baie Nettle on the French side. The owner is a charming fellow who tends the bar. This is one of the prettiest beach restaurants, with tables nestled under palm and sea grape trees or under a cabaña in the event of rain. Great for fresh fish.
Friars’ Bay Beach Club. The owner looks like a combination of Luciano Pavarotti and Paul Prudhomme. Friars’ Bay is a secluded spot, very pretty, and the service is excellent. A local Belgian friend celebrated a major birthday recently here and it was superb.
Kontaki, Kakao and Waikiki on Orient Beach. Orient Beach is a slice of St.Tropez. Like its French counterpart, Orient Beach is topless. And certain areas are “bottomless” as well. The far right end of the beach is reserved for nudists. It is French, sexy, and chic. All the restaurants rent beach chaises/umbrellas and have water sports. The restaurants themselves are perched overlooking the water. All have excellent cuisine. Kontaki is a personal favorite with their incredibly fresh sushi.
Other good lunch options include Talk of the Town lolo (meaning a restaurant owned and operated by locals) in Grand Case, which is right in the middle of town. The specialty here is grilled food and local “sides,” e.g. rice and beans, plantain, conch sausage, stuffed christophene, etc. This is also the best place for fresh, Caribbean lobster at an incredible price. Grilled ribs, chicken and fish are also delicious. A bit sexier lobster is the lobster salad at La California, also in Grand Case. And if you need a reprieve from rich food, their pizza is excellent. Why not share a pizza and lobster salad? Ditto at La Belle Époque at the Marina Royale in Marigot. Both California and Belle Époque are great destinations for the local Friday/Saturday must: moules frites flown in fresh on Friday via Air France! Another moules frites specialist is Tropicana in the Marina Royale, which also prepares some of the best frites on island.
Bon Appetit!
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Country Code for the island of St Martin/St Marten is (590). The city code for French St Martin is (590) and the city code for Dutch St Marten is (5995)
Where to Stay:
Grand Case Beach Club. Grand Case, St Martin. Quiet, elegant apartment hotel (actually privately owned condos for vacation rental) within walking distance of the charming village of Grand Case; 800-344-1316; www.grandcasebeachclub.com
Hotel L’Esplanade and Le Petit Hotel. Grand Case, St Martin. Charming, boutique hotels. L’Esplanade is perched on a hill overlooking the village of Grand Case, the sea and Anguilla. Its sister hotel, Le Petit Hotel is right on the beach;
87-06-55; www.lesplanade.com; 29-09-65; www.lepetithotel.com
La Samanna. The French Lowlands, St Martin. The “chicest” hotel on island. Looks like a Moroccan villa. This is where the celebrities stay;
800-854-2252; www.lasamanna.com
Sonesta Maho. Maho Beach, Dutch St Marten. Large resort hotel surrounded by great beaches, good restau rants and a big casino;
800-223-0757; www.sonesta.com/Mahobeach
Turquoise Shell Inn. Simpson’s Bay, Dutch St Martin. Small hotel with 10 spotless rooms with fully equipped kitchens, access to a charming little pool tucked in the courtyard, and within walking distance of restaurants, bars and shops. Helpful owners; 45-28-75; www.tshellinn.com
Carimo. Marigot, French St Martin. If you are interested in renting a villa, the top agency on island is Carimo. Villas are a good value, especially if you share the cost with a few couples; 87-57-58; www.carimo.com
Where to Eat:
Layla’s; 51-00-93
Where to Shop:
Le West Indies Mall. Marigot, French St Martin. Right on the waterfront, this trés chic mall has a collection of luxurious shops featuring merchandise from top designers.
Marina Royale. Marigot, French St Martin. Not only great for dining, but shopping as well. Look for MaxMara, Monica for great linen clothes, L’Occitane and other interesting stores.
Rue Charles de Gaulle. Marigot, French St Martin. A tropical Fauborg St Honore or Madison Ave. Hermes, Longchamps, Hugo Boss, Act III (features top French and Italian designers), Cartier, Ralph Lauren and other stores.
Front Street, Philipsburg, Dutch St Marten. THE place to shop for watches and jewelry, and also home to the Guavaberry Emporium, which features local liquors and great sauces.
Must See:
Orient Beach. Orient, French St Martin. Fabulous for water sports, great food, and gawking.
Marigot Market. Marigot, French St Martin. On Wednesday and Saturday, the market is bursting with local foods, some very interesting jewelry, clothing and accessories, along with the typical island trinkets. Great fun.
The Butterfly Farm. Le Galion Bay, French St Martin. Definitely a site to see. We love it and our guests do, too; www.thebutterflyfarm.com
The Loterie Farm. Pic du Paradis, French St. Martin. Hit the “fly zone,” a series of zip lines that let you fly through the rainforest. Dine at the Hidden Forest Café.