Exploring Stockholm’s SOFO Neighborhood

With hip fashion boutiques and stylish vintage shops, organic cafés, candy stores and laid-back pottery studios, Stockholm’s SoFo is where innovative and eclectic meet and creative and kitsch collide. Located on Södermalm south of Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s Old Town, the seven-block square area is a short subway ride or walk from most hotels.  The Medborgarplatsen metro stop on the northern fringe is just four stops from Central Station and three from Gamla Stan.  From there it’s a two-block walk to Folkungagatan where the neighborhood begins but if it’s a pleasant summer day and you decide to walk from Gamla Stan, go via Slussen, which connects the Old City to Södermalm. From there, head about 10 blocks south. The area extends south to Ringvägen, west as far as Götgatan and east to Renstiernasgata.

To immerse yourself in the scene, book a room here.  The deluxe Clarion Hotel Stockholm is steps from the Skanstull metro stop on the southern border and the first-class Scandic Malmen is near the Medborgarplatsen stop.  Trendy Hotel Söder is near Katarina kyrka, the 1656 yellow-and-white domed church where a young Greta Garbo was confirmed in 1920.

Stockholm's SoFo Neighborhood on TravelSquire
Södermalm Tove Freij

SoFo Businesses: What You Need to Know 

Some SoFo businesses are open six or seven days a week; others only a few days midweek.  As for hours, SoFo sleeps late.   Most shops don’t open until 11 or 12, though they usually don’t close before 6 or 6:30.  On SoFo Night, the last Thursday of the month, shops stay open until 8 or 9 p.m., offering live music, free coffee, drinks, snacks and discounts of 10-50%.

Early risers can have a leisurely breakfast before the shops open.  Bakverket, an organic bakery, serves breakfast all day while around café-lined Nytorget, take your morning meal at Café String (where everything from the tables and chairs to the art on the walls is for sale), Gilda’s Rum (serving delectable baked goods in a flashy red and pink-and-purple striped parlor) or Nytorget Urban Deli (the internationally known supermarket-deli-bistro).

Stockholm's SoFo Neighborhood on TravelSquire
Fika in SoFo Tove Freij

From Fine Galleries to Erotica

SoFo has several fine galleries as well, but kitsch is really what makes it tick.   At Coctail you’ll be blinded by the hot pink walls and the array of trinkets and tchotchkes, including garish Mexican Day of the Dead figurines.   At nearby Grandpa, pick up a 60’s globe (or something smaller) along with vintage and retro clothing.  Not far from Greta Garbo Square, vintage furnishings are displayed in various rooms at Garbo’s Café.

Fru Lotta Diversehandel stocks both new and old, everything from lamps to garden hoes.  But the shop prides itself on its environmentally safe Villa VIKINGSHILL household products, including soaps and organic quilts.   Silvia Design has colorful bowls and cups from Nordic designers like Marimekko, the famous Finnish design house.

If none of these tickle your fancy, then prowl through SoFo’s three erotic shops: the Aphrodite Pharmacy, the Love Store, and the Martin Shop, where one big object of desire is the We Vibe in brash colors of purple, red and turquoise.

Stockholm's SoFo Neighborhood on TravelSquire
Grandpa’s in SoFo Tove Feijl

A Fashion Capital

SoFo is also a fashion capital.  The flagship shop of Nudie Jeans Co. has organic wear as well as pint-sized jeans for kids 6 months and older.  Here, too, is the boutique of Matilda Wendelboe, an “ecodesigner” recognized for her classy draping as well as her use of organic fabrics.

Vintage is big here, too.  Lisa Larsson is the top shop for reasonably priced second-hand designer clothes.  Also popular is Beyond Retro, a Stockholm outpost of the British chain and Sivletto which stocks 40’s and 50’s clothes in rockabilly, tiki, surf and hot rod styles.  There’s a café, too, and—I’m not kidding—three hairstylists who’ll give you a cut to match your new outfit.

Multi-use spaces gibe with SoFo’s philosophy of global sustainability.  Not only does 6/5/4 stock casual clothing, but it also sells Stockholm’s finest selection of wetsuits and surf gear and it also has a café, to boot.  For hip, casual threads in black and grey, check out The Local Firm.  For well-tailored clothing, drop into The P Concept Shop.

Stockhom's SOFO Neighborhood
Double Rainbow in SoFo Visit Stockholm

Paradise for Potters

What about real art?  In keeping with its humble, working-class roots, SoFo has long been a paradise for potters and other down to earth artisans.   At Krukmakeriet Anne Junsjö, the sweet curly-haired grandmother gives pottery lessons to both kids and adults.  At Keramikerna three potters share the shop and studio.  Shop for pottery at manos, then put ceramic decals on them.  Drejstudion Kursverksamhet gives evening and weekend pottery classes.  Browse through ceramic, glass, fabric, wood and wrought-iron crafts at 125 Kvadrat, a venerable artisans’ cooperative founded in 1984.

SoFo also showcases fine Scandinavian furniture.  Stalands, one of the city’s largest showrooms, is a textbook of Swedish design.  Skattkammaren (The Treasury) has 50’s and 60’s furniture.  For contemporary furniture, visit Monica Förster or Adesso Showroom.

The “fine arts” are represented at the Art Concept Store and Talent Gallery cooperatives for new and emerging artists.  There’s also Gallery Darling for Lena Derning’s colorful works, Gallery Nytorget 13 for contemporary art, and The Scarlett Gallery for fine prints that are signed and numbered.

If browsing stirs up an appetite, drop into Gilda’s Rum Throughout the day, N.ytorget Urban Deli serves hearty fare like fish stew or glazed ribs with root vegetables.  Another good choice for dinner is Roxy, where the three female owners dish-up hearty international fare like roast goose with gnocchi and Spanish sausage and bean stew.

If you’ve got a sweet tooth, buy organic caramels at Pärlans Konfekyr or handmade chocolates at Chokladfabriken.  For stronger stuff, try Pet Sounds Bar or Snotty Sounds Bar.  Classy Och Himlen Därtill offers cocktails in a more refined environment.  And, if you want to dance the night away, head to Debaser Medis.  Don’t worry about getting home early.  Like SoFo, you’ll have energy to burn, but you can always sleep late.

http://sofo-stockholm.se

www.visitstockholm.com

The country code for Sweden is 46.

Where to Stay

Clarion Hotel Stockholm – Deluxe contemporary rooms, free health club access, the Elements Spa, and the Minami Restaurant serving Japanese and other Asian cuisines.  Ringvägen 98, 08-462-10-00.  www.clarionstockholm.com

Hotel Söder – This 12-room design hotel makes up for small rooms with stylish appointments and bountiful breakfasts. Tjärhovsgatan 20, 08-644-67-00. www.hotellsoder.se

Scandic Malmen First-class hotel with colorful rooms, a cocktail bar and a live music bar.  Götgatan 49-51. 08-51-73-47-00. www.scandichotels.se/malmen

Where to Eat

Bakverket – An organic bakery that serves all-day breakfast.  Bondegatan 59, 08-640-91-07.  http://bakverket.blogspot.com

Café String – Even the tables and chairs are for sale in this 50s-style diner. Nytorgsgatan 38, 08-714-85-14. www.cafestring.com

Gilda’s Rum – In a cozy red and pink-and-purple lair, savor fresh-baked pastries, grilled sandwiches and salads. Skånegatan 79, 08-694-7590. https://www.facebook.com/Gildas

Nytorget Urban Deli – Nytorget 4, 08-599-091-80. www.urbandeli.org

Roxy – Three female restaurateurs dish up soulful world fare.  Nytorget 6, 08-640-96-55. www.roxysofo.se

Where to Eat Something Sweet

Chokladfabriken Fine handmade chocolates, cakes and petit fours. Renstiernasgata 12, 08-640-05-68. www.chokladfabriken.com

Pärlans Konfekyr Organic caramels in classic and Scandinavian flavors like lingonberry and salt licorice. Nytorgsgatan 38, 08-660-70-10. www.parlanskonfektyr.se

 Where to Drink, Dance and Hang Out

Debaser Medis Dance music on three floors. Medborgarplatsen 8, 08-694-79-00.  www.debaser.se

Och Himlen Därtill – Luxury cocktail bar, sky bar and restaurant. Götgaten 78, 08-660-60-68. www.restauranghimlen.se

FASHION

Matilda Wendelboe – Stylish organic haute-couture in the heart of SoFo.  Bondegatan 48, 08-21-33-22.  www.matildawendelboe.se

Nudie Jeans Co. – Flagship store of the famous Swedish jeans maker.  Skånegatan 75, 08-41-09-72. www.nudiejeans.com

6/5/4 The place for casual fashion, surfing gear and good coffee.  Nytorgsgatan 27, 08-64-04-654. www.654.se

The Local Firm Dark casual clothes for young clubbers.  Skånegatan 82, 08-641-55-06. www.thelocalfirm.com

The P Concept Shop – Tailored wear for foppish young sophisticates. Kocksgatan 19, 737-63-35-50. www.thepconcept.se

 VINTAGE GOODS & FASHION

Beyond Retro – A well-known vintage and second-hand shop from Britain.  Asögatan 144, 08-559-136-45. www.beyondretro.com

Coctail – Kitschy delights in neon-colored digs. Bondegatan 34, 08-642-07-40/41.  www.coctail.nu

Grandpa – Vintage goods and retro fashion.  Södermannagatan 21, 08-643-60-80. www.grandpa.se

Lisa Larsson Top second-hand designer clothes and shoes. Bondegatan 48, 08-643-61-53. www.lisalarssonsecondhand.com

Sivletto – Retro clothes, café and a hair salon all in one.  Malmgårdsvägen 16-18, 08-643-39-72.  www.sivletto.com

HOME FURNISHINGS

Garbo’s Café Vintage home-furnishings shop and café. Sofiagatan 1, 08-644-17-00. www.garboscafe.se

Marimekko SoFo – The famous Finnish textile and home-goods design firm imported to SoFo. www.marimekko.com

Silvia Design – Colorful home goods by top design firms.  Nytorgasgatan 36A, 08-641-70-42

FURNITURE

Adesso Showroom – Fine contemporary furniture and lighting.  Asögatan 126, 08-642-06-10. www.adessostockholm.se

Monica Förster – Contemporary furniture from a top young designer.  Östgötagatan 18. www.monicaforster.se

Skattkammaren – The best of 50s and 60s furniture.  Bondegatan 44, 08-642-00-00. www.antikhandel.nu

Stalands – One of Stockholm’s largest fine furniture selections. Asögatan 121, 08-70-27-800. www.stalands.se

 

EROTICA

Aphrodite Pharmacy – Oils, lingerie and other goodies.  Katarina Bangata 17, 08-640-92-10. www.afroditesapotek.se

Love Store – The shop’s motto is “lust with passion,” and a few toys can’t hurt.  Bondegatan 4, 08-641-71-66. www.lovestore.se

Martin Shop – Gadgets galore, including the We Vibe, built for two.  Östgötagatan 75, 08-694-72-22. www.martinshop.se

 

POTTERY

Drejstudion Kursverksamhet Join classes weekdays and weekends.  Kocksgatan 28, 08-640-45-05. www.drejstudion.se

Keramikerna Studio and shop.  Asögatan 159, 708-67-01-01.  www.keramikerna.se

Krukmakeriet Anne Junsjö – Longtime artisan sells pottery and gives lessons to adults and children.  Bondegatan 32, 08-644-76-02. www.annejunsjo.se

Manos – Shop or make your own ceramic creations.  Renstiernasgata 22, 08-655-11-60. www.manos.se

GALLERIES/COOPERATIVES

Art Concept Store – Shop and exhibit space for new artists.  Asögatan 148 and Bjurholmsplan 23. www.artconceptstore.se

125 Kvadrat – Glass, fabric, wood and wrought-iron crafts at 1984 artisans’ cooperative. Kocksgatan 17, 08-640-97-77. www.125kvadrat.com