SushiSamba, Coral Gables, Fl.

The Squire has had a lifelong fling with SushiSamba, so much so that people were beginning to talk. How much further would things go?  For the uninitiated, Sushi Samba is a distinctive collection of restaurants that celebrate the culture and cuisine of Japan, Brazil and Peru. In a word or two, it’s the essence of exotic.

The affair started in Manhattan on lower Park Avenue then quickly segued to Greenwich Village, a hopping location that was always the perfect trysting place as far as scene, drinks and fun people. They got on intimate terms there and shortly after Miami followed.  It’ll be awhile before I forget that New Year’s Eve of muchos mojitos, when a live d.j. had everyone dancing in the aisles (and still does to today).  I worry about it, sometimes you just don’t want to leave.

Then came Tel Aviv over the Christmas holidays, a trip which sealed their relationship forever. Hearing about the new Coral Gables location, he wondered whether he’d need another spritz of Dolce & Gabbana cologne. The neighborhood’s Miracle Mile is the Latino Central of Miami after all. Forget it, this Sushi Samba has gone a bit highbrow and is located in the Westin Hotel, but it’s as far from the Westin as possible (and that’s a good thing too).

Sweeping lines from a curvilinear ceiling accentuate a dining room that’s bathed in orange from above your head down to the banquettes, lighting and menus on the table. Even the servers are accessorized in orange suspenders and sneakers (much to their chagrin). Talk about a color statement! Add miles of wood paneling, illuminated multi-striped acrylic panels around the bar and an open island kitchen faced with real stone and you have an uber-cool, visually stunning environment (by Cetra Ruddy, it’s so beautiful, we have to give them credit).

And don’t dare forget the pumping soundtrack (well, this is Sushi Samba after all), the best dance and lounge grooves to be found. Sushi Samba knows how to cocoon its guests, to make them feel coddled and happy to spend endless hours enjoying the ambience and the amazing sushi creations.  And I won’t argue with them … their formula works! I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve had to comfort the Squire when he got a craving and couldn’t satisfy it.

Here, the formula is replicated with subtle changes. We began with Lychee Martinis, so refreshing after a long drive down U.S. 1 from Miami Beach. The yellowtail tiradito was a natural to munch with these cocktails, enlivened with citrus (what else?) and an orange jalapeno sauce. Oysters also make a great play with beverages especially when in Florida and here the Kumamoto and Shigoku varieties arrived on their own private ice island planted with orchid, algae grass and tall trees made from a coiled snake plant leaf and a mini palm frond with budding fauna. The anything but subtle presentation was a reminder of the prowess of SushiSamba’s Asian trained team behind the raw bar.  We brought our cold plates full circle with a (real) King Crab California Roll. If you’re not a fan of the typical faux crab usually used in a California Roll (that would be me), you’ll be won over by the real deal here at Sushi Samba, because the sensation of eating real crabmeat in a roll cannot be imitated. This is a must staple of the establishment’s menu and shouldn’t be missed.

We moved to cooked food with Samba’s dynamically prepared Taquitos, a little bit of Mexico and South America thrown into the mix, Samba’s Latino under current shining here in the execution.  You just can’t go wrong with these, especially when done with fish.  You’ll devour them in seconds and want another. Samba Coral Gables’ authentic Japanese Robata Grill is unique for the Samba chain and it’s important to experience food flash grilled so the full flavor is still front and center.  We chose the Sea Bass Anticuchos with Peruvian corn as well as the Wagyu Picanha, both mouth-watering.

After another round of those martinis we were starting to see more colors than orange and called it quits with a Samba Split, a dizzying assemblage of dulce de leche ice cream, caramelized baby bananas, coconut flan, caramel popcorn, fresh berries and whipped cream.  The Squire was so smitten I had a hard time getting him out.  Let’s just say I’m worried about the next location.  If it’s Hawaii we’re done for!

SushiSamba Coral Gables is open late for the area which isn’t exactly for night owls – Friday and Saturday until 1 am and Sunday until a very late 11 pm.