Tanah Merah Resort and Gallery

A stay at Tanah Merah was a highlight of a visit to Ubud, Bali, several years ago. This secluded boutique hotel in a luxuriant tropical setting is the perfect place to chill out.  Like much of Bali, there is something mystical about it so I knew I’d return.  I did exactly that recently with my husband and it was idyllic.  Tanah Merah (red earth), located four kilometers outside of Ubud, is the realization of a dream for Peter Bloch, the Danish dentist who created this haven of tranquility.

He bought the land on a cliff above the Petanu River Gorge and began construction in 2000.  There are now 17 rooms, including individual cottages and luxurious villas.  The latter have private plunge pools, some with waterfalls.  During both visits, we had a deluxe studio with two canopied king-sized beds, private terrace and enormous bathroom with a gleaming copper tub.  Bloch, who designed all the rooms himself, did not scrimp on the bathrooms – all lavish and spacious.  Fascinating art objects and paintings from his private collection add elegance to the guest rooms.

Collecting is the jovial Dane’s passion.  “I am constantly collecting.  It’s terrible. It’s a disease,” he says.  He opened a museum at the resort, nine rooms, each behind heavy, elaborately carved wooden doors, and all underground in a temperature-controlled environment.  The contents, priceless, amazing and unusual objects, include paintings, weavings, objects of gold, daggers, masks and carved furniture. From Europe, there’s his mother’s dining room recreated from furnishings from the family home in Denmark, complete with a lavish table setting.  A museum guided tour is fascinating.

Bloch, who speaks numerous languages, likes to mingle with his guests.  He knows every crevice in Bali and is a wealth of information about what to see and do. Excursions with resort drivers can be arranged, however, it will be hard to tear yourself away from this hidden paradise where the many stone statues of gods and spirits add to the almost spiritual, enchanting ambience.  Young Balinese women clad in vibrant sarongs place fresh offerings of flowers at the statues each morning.

The resort’s grounds are expansive. Steps lead up and down a verdant hillside with colorful blossoms and lush foliage and there’s an infinity pool at the edge of a cliff with fabulous views of the surroundings.  The property is serenely private and you rarely see other guests.  On many occasions I had the pool to myself. Float in the water, gaze up at the sky and greenery all around, and listen to chirping birds and other creatures.  It’s magical.  For an authentic jungle experience, descend a steep flight of steps to the river and swim in a pool under a waterfall – a scene out of a Tarzan movie.

I’m not a big fan of massages, but the one I had at Tanah Merah during my first stay was the best ever. Fortunately the same masseuse is still there, and her technique is still fabulous. Breakfasts, the hearty English kind with bacon and eggs, as well as fresh fruit and croissants, are the perfect way to start the day, served either at the alfresco restaurant Petanu, down the hillside amidst the jungle greenery or on your private terrace or balcony.  Another open-air restaurant overlooking a lovely pool where noisy frogs thrive serves lunch and dinner.

The town of Ubud with shops, restaurants and a bustling market, is about a 15-minute drive from the resort.  Tanah Merah offers guests free shuttle service.

“We are different from other hotels,” said Tanah Merah marketing manager Herman Nto.  “We have a great atmosphere and we treat guests like family.”

We were so happy to be part of that family once again.