The Grand Hotel: Mackinac Island, Michigan

I spotted the iconic 660-foot front porch of the Grand Hotel from the ferry to Mackinac Island.   From a distance I could see the massive white structure on a hill in stark contrast to the deep green of the surrounding trees and the rich blue waters of Lake Huron.  As we approached the structure took shape; Victorian architecture, bright yellow awnings and hanging American flags complimented an endless garden of blooming flowers.  A horse and carriage were waiting at the port to transport us up the hill to the property.  Bright red geraniums, the thump of horse hooves, and the rich smell of chocolate fudge permeated the air and a cool breeze complemented the transcendental atmosphere.

Gilded Age Allure

I’m staying at one of America’s most storied hotels, appropriately named The Grand Hotel, an American gilded age landmark.  Opened in 1887, The Grand Hotel was originally designed to serve as a summer retreat for wealthy vacationers from Chicago, Erie, Montreal and Detroit.  Today it’s considered one of the top 100 hotels in the world and attracts guests from around the globe.

Horses and Bicycles

Mackinac Island is a unique destination for many reasons.  Automobiles have been forbidden since 1898 and the entire island is considered a National Historic Landmark with eighty percent preserved as a state park.  Its strategic location led the island to become an important spot for the Great Lakes fur trade and subsequently a British stronghold during the Revolutionary War.  Today, its history and charm are what make it a bucket list item for travelers.  Armies of bicycles and dozens of beautiful horses navigate the main street, yet it still feels relaxed compared to the traffic jams in most pristine resort towns.  On Mackinac Island, visitors are forced to slow down and appreciate the unhurried pace.

The Grand Hotel is synonymous with the place and dominates the landscape of half the island.  It’s hard to believe it’s open only from May through October and to imagine it without guests and staff swarming the grounds.  At times it even feels almost like a museum for design aficionados and history buffs. Original artwork and antiques decorate the building and guests can take a guided tour with the resort’s own historian, Bob Tagatz.

Carleton Varney Design

Bright colors, bold patterns and vivid contrasts represent the design style of Carleton Varney who decorated the entire property, including the 393 unique guestrooms. Don’t expect any neutrals or white on white, ok? Mr. Varney has made a name for himself by decorating The Breakers in Palm Beach, but the Grand Hotel exudes an unpretentiousness that one would expect of the Midwest. And in an era when hotel rooms can all feel the same whether you’re in Sao Paulo or San Francisco, the Grand stands out.

Outdoor Activities

You could spend an entire day exploring the hotel’s interior, but if the weather is as picture-perfect as it was during my stay, take my suggestion and get outdoors. The hotel has an interesting array of activities such as croquet and bocce ball in the tea garden.  Or just lounge by the Esther Williams Swimming Pool, named after the Hollywood actress and competitive swimmer who starred in the 1947 movie This Time for Keeps, filmed there.  My favorite activity was the 8-mile bike ride around the island’s perimeter. Outside the resort, Mackinac Island is an untouched nature paradise with abundant forests and wildlife.

Or maybe think about including a round of golf at the resort’s exceptional course appropriately named the ‘Jewel’.  Even if your drive is still above par, the scenery is certainly a hole in one.   Built in 1901, the Jewel’s front and back nine are separated by a mile and a half horse-drawn carriage ride.

Formal Dining Ambience

Dining at the Grand is truly an event with a formal dress code from 6:30 onward every night everywhere except the Cupola Bar.  You’ll feel a bit like Daisy & Gatsby sipping Martinis at Happy Hour.  Dinner in the Main Dining Room features a rotating menu with a five-course meal throughout the season. And since the hotel is relatively remote, it sources much of its staff from abroad with many returning season after season. Don’t be surprised if your server has a Jamaican accent!

Guests can arrive by sea or air to Mackinac Island’s airport which accommodates private and charter aircraft.  Horse-drawn taxi service is available to the hotel.

On the resort’s famous front porch, I ended my stay admiring the view of ships crossing the Straits of Lake Huron from a rocking chair at sunset.  This one of many moments was perhaps the most luxurious part of my stay there.  Next time I may linger awhile longer to soak up that little sliver of paradise before heading back to the outside world.