The Mission Inn

I had heard that the magical holiday displays at The Mission Inn were a must see, but I visited in the middle of the summer to get a look at the inn.  Riverside, California, in its heyday, was home to a colony of healthy people who tried mightily to grow crops until they hit on the right one, the navel orange. The orange crop blossomed and waterways, trains and lodging helped develop this Southern California area 60 miles east of Los Angeles. Wealthy tourists and Hollywood stars vacationed here where Spanish Renaissance buildings, sunshine and swaying palm trees abound. Mission Inn owner Frank Miller marketed all this along with the popular California Missions to bring in visitors.

Mr. Miller used his wealth and social influences to expand the property and host well known dignitaries and presidents.  It was not unusual for him to acquire treasures from his world travels and decorate the Inn with them; or build a section of the hotel to put the ornaments on exhibit. His wife Isabella (Bella) loved bells and 800 bells are in the collection with many on display. Near the entrance is a 3500 pound bell named the Nanjing Bell which can’t be missed.

Resembling the design of a mission, guests enter through an arched entrance with hanging bells in the wall known as a campanario or bell wall.  From there, the intrigue begins as the Inn takes twists and turns in a helter-skelter manner. Buildings and wings were added one at a time and not in a fluid way.

One of the impressive additions is the International Rotunda Wing completed in 1931. The storied spiral staircase ascending multi-levels has wrought iron hand rails and tile insets of various countries’ insignias. Here, Booker T. Washington visited and dined with Mr. Miller during his social reform speeches and President John F. Kennedy, prior to his time in office, attended the Institute of World Affairs conference.

One level leads to the Courtyard of the Orient and the other to the St. Francis of Assisi Chapel. The chapel is lined with Tiffany stained glass windows, Belgian wooden benches and a massive gold-leafed alter.  Bette Davis is among the notables who were married in the chapel and over 300 weddings are held each year. While most were in awe of the Rayas alter, I noticed a woman behind me glancing to the back of the chapel. Her eyes were on the pipe organ above the door and being a professional organist, she thought it would be a thrill to play it.

Additional wings were added to the hotel in stages including a Cloister wing with catacombs, Spanish wing with outdoor courtyard and Author’s Row. Each level has very different guest accommodations. There is so much uniqueness to take in just by gazing in any direction:  a Moorish style roof on one wing, gargoyles and turrets on another and a glockenspiel (clock tower). When the clock chimes every 15 minutes, full size statutes of Father Junipero Serra, Juan Bautista de Anza, St. Francis of Assisi, a grizzly bear and a Native American appear in rotation.

The best way to explore the property is on an hour tour which will only illustrate the tip of the iceberg. Volunteers in the museum arrange tours with knowledgeable people who love The Mission Inn and are able to answer any questions.

Holidays are the most festive time with 4 million lights and 400 animated figures throughout the property. But honestly anytime is a good time to visit The Inn.