The Mystical Allure of Cruising Asia

I’m in a “junk” boat navigating mystical waters where thousands of craggy outcrops rise up like humps on an enormous underwater dragon. The mounds are shrouded in mist, making the scene surreal. A floating village suddenly appears as though it rose from the depths. Dogs bark on the docks and children scamper about but the village is otherwise silent, ebbing with the calm sea. Then suddenly, there’s action. My junk pulls up to the dock where there is a boisterous, jostling crowd. About a dozen men are negotiating for their lunch, selecting fish from vats sunken into the dock through which seawater flows. There is much ado as several hoist large specimens up on the scales, everyone cheers, morsels are wrapped, and then the crowd disperses onto their junks and disappears into the mist as quickly as they appeared. This is Halong Bay in Vietnam, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the most enthralling stops along my exotic Asia Explorer cruise with Holland America.

Holland America’s 14 day Asian cruise makes stops in four or five countries. Mine began with the beautiful and ultra-modern city of Singapore before sailing to a port near Bangkok in Thailand. Next was rustic and authentic Cambodia, followed by a port near Saigon in Vietnam. The cruise journeyed on to Sanya, the “Hawaii of China,” before culminating in Halong Bay with disembarkment following in Hong Kong. The itinerary is an ambitious and fascinating one that balances exotic adventure with shipboard luxury and comfort. The options ashore were so tantalizing, however, that I maximized every hour possible to explore the magic of Asia. Here are some highlights.

Singapore

For a pure “city” experience, Singapore zings with its soaring, architecturally prominent buildings, its promenades along the river and its British colonial roots. It’s also one of the cleanest cities in the world, with fines for anyone daring to drop a wad of gum in the street. But it’s the history that I sought out, beginning with the venerable Raffles Hotel, immortalized by writers like Rudyard Kipling and Somerset Maugham. Raffles is a step back in time with a club like atmosphere, high teas, and glorious Sunday brunch; it’s also the birthplace of the potent Singapore Sling. The hotel is a central point to embark on a self-guided walking tour of the city’s key sights, a highlight of which is the Asian Civilizations Museum.

Aboard ship: The cruise sets sail and spends a day at sea, offering the perfect opportunity for a spa experience to ease one into shipboard rhythm.

 

Bangkok Vicinity

While Bangkok is one of the ports of call, technically it’s a two hour ride from the port city of Laem Chabang. I’d already been to the frenetically insane capital city, so I opted to explore closer to home and wasn’t disappointed. I strolled along the wide, endless beachside promenade of Had Bang Saen, lined with amiable vendors peddling specialties like bamboo shoots filled with sticky rice, horseshoe crab eggs and papaya salad. Tables and chairs line the sand so beachgoers can linger over meals between frolics in the surf.

I visit the nearby cliffs immortalized in the tragic tale of Saen and Muk, a Thai version of Romeo and Juliet. Beautiful, poor Muk jumped off a precipice to her death after her wealthy beloved was forbidden to marry her. In despair, he followed. The site is now overflowing with scampering monkeys but an extravagant temple nearby memorializes the star-crossed lovers with larger than life figurines, which people come from far and wide to wish upon. Whimsical romanticism seems omnipresent on these Asian stops.

Also, not far from the port are the spectacular botanical gardens, Nong Nooch, that rival the best in the world and are worth a visit.

Aboard ship: Holland American is in port for two nights. Some guests overnight in Bangkok, leaving the run of the ship to others like me. I get in a good movie onboard, browse the ship’s library and enjoy Happy Hour with new acquaintances.

 

Cambodia

Sihanoukville is the first deep-water port in Cambodia and within striking distance of several interesting sites. For $30, a fellow cruiser and I negotiate for an English speaking taxi driver, “Mr. Bunny,” to show us the sights. We visit Wat Kraom Temple, worth it just to see the friendly Buddhist monks-in-training strolling the grounds in bright orange robes.

The town’s market is fascinating, more for the way of life it displays that its wares, the former a simple, often rugged existence. I revel in the market’s authenticity but for those that prefer westernized beauty, an alternative is to buy a day pass to the Sokha Beach Resort with its crescent shaped beach and luxurious surroundings. I visit there before searching out more of the “real” Cambodia, which I discover around the bend in a shantytown. There, while the poverty I see is gripping, it’s a joyous occasion. A group of Italian tourists are bestowing aid to the families for the fourth year in a row including rice, books for schoolchildren, and more. The beauty of the Cambodian smiles I witness is unforgettable.

Aboard ship: I’ve now tried all four of the ship’s restaurants, from casual buffet and Italian, to Continental and fine dining. Wherever I am, the sommelier finds me to offer the perfect complimentary wine for my meal.

 

Saigon, Vietnam

Moving from rustic Cambodia to my next port of call is like changing gears at warp speed. Saigon has 8 million people and 4 million motorbikes, so any insanity missed in Bangkok, I can make up for here. Labeled the “Pearl of the Orient” before it became better known for its war, Saigon was once part of the Khmer Empire but was captured by the French in 1859. French influence remains omnipresent from the small replica of Notre Dame Cathedral, to the city’s squares flanked by French Colonial architecture, to influence on the local cuisine.

Especially interesting in Saigon is the former Presidential Palace, immortalized by North Vietnamese tanks crashing its gates, marking an end to the Vietnam War. Now, the palace is a museum that provides interesting reflections upon a contentious era. Covering more ancient history is the Museum of Vietnamese History, also worthwhile for the charming water puppetry show where figurines appear to glide over the water, maneuvered via long submerged rods.

Above all, however, I find the most fascinating aspect of Saigon to be its energized, colorful streets where capitalism reigns and few signs of communism or any war can be found.

Aboard ship: Visiting Saigon was nearly a 12 hour day (90 minutes each way from port), so strong drinks are in order at the Crow’s Nest bar aboard ship. The following day at sea allows me time to take in Holland America’s Asian cooking demonstration.

 

Sanya, China

Approaching this southernmost Chinese city, I see futuristic high-rise condos that resemble enormous, gleaming beehives. Wealth is pouring into this resort and I quickly understand why when I visit the glorious bay that helped earn the area the moniker, the “Hawaii of China.”

After dipping my toes into its tranquil waters, I strike out with a friend in search of adventure. We take a public bus to experience the “real” downtown Sanya where busy city streets are filled with women in conical hats riding tuk-tuks; men gathering for board games; tailors mending on sewing machines along the sidewalks; and dogs scampering about aimlessly. We ponder the food vendors selling dim sum, sticky pastries and duck parts. I try the latter and discover that the bony morsel I’m eating is duck neck. (Every part of an animal is useable or edible in Asia.) From there, we cross pretty footbridges that span the river leading to the beehive island.

Then it’s on to Halong Bay’s mystical beauty followed by the last port of call, Hong Kong.

Aboard ship: I have been far too busy to take in most of the ship’s shows, though I squeeze in comedy night. In fact, I have run out of time to do many of the things I planned to do onboard. Already, I am figuring there has to be a “next time” aboard Holland America.

 

Hong Kong – Macau

I’d already visited Hong Kong, so I detour via a one hour boat ride to Macau, the “Las Vegas of China.” I’m not a gambler but am intrigued by the Portuguese old town, a UNESCO World Heritage site dating to the mid-16^th century. At its center are the starkly beautiful ruins of St. Paul’s Cathedral. Its steps lead down to cobblestone streets where history meets the hustle-bustle of modernity and where it’s wonderful to stroll along a heritage walk to a beautiful temple.

Major gaming companies are in Macau like the Sands and Wynn but for my dose of modernity, I’m whisked to the top of Macau Tower, a soaring spindle topped with a rotating restaurant. There, the views over Macau are stupendous but even more exciting are the bungee jumpers preparing to plunge more than 60 floors to the bottom. In the flash of a pan, a body skyrockets past the window. Then another.

I meet the daring jumpers at the bottom, two young men from the States who met while traveling in Asia. And I thought the detours I took along my Asian route were adventurous!  As it turns out, there is always room for more adventure in Asia but the cruise ship formula – with its balance of soft adventure, shipboard luxury and convenience – fit my exploration desires just right.

Aboard ship: The wine and good cheer flow as I bid goodbye to new friends made on my cruise and we all promise to meet again some day on the high seas.