The New Tastes of Ireland

We began our exploration in Ireland’s Midlands of all places, at the Glasson Hotel, located in the town of Glasson, in County Westmeath, where dinner at their Killinure Restaurant set the precedent. It became a running thread, seeing which hotel’s kitchen outdid the other. The wine list that was presented to us by the friendly maitre’d was eclectic to say the least and when we asked his suggestion for a red he led us to an Australian Shiraz, not exactly what we imagined we’d be drinking in the middle of Ireland. Imagine that, Nicole! The Irish brown bread with a hint of sweetness was the best I’ve ever tasted. I think the leprechauns must have helped them make it. The Thai fish cakes with a sweet chili sauce put a new spin on one of my favorite classics, the plump mound of fresh seafood delicately seasoned with Asian spices, and the fat and juicy cod that followed was topped with a lively citrus sauce. What a way to start out!

Killinure Restaurant

Lunch at the Temple Country Retreat and Spa in Horseleap the next day was an about face. Although a soft Irish rain darkened the day a bit, when we entered the Temple’s Garden Room Restaurant it was as though we had stepped into sunshine. The blond wood floors almost lit up the space and the preparations by Temple’s Japanese chef, Takashi Miyazaki, were equally airy.  Having specialized in cooking fusion style food at Japan’s five star Hotel Nikko, Takashi has employed a similar aesthetic of mixing two very different tastes at Temple, incorporating healthy Japanese cooking techniques and flavors with traditional Irish dishes. Ably assisted by talented local chef Alan Devlin and pastry chef Jacinta Gallagher, the end result is a mouth watering fusion of flavors. I still dream of Takashi’s chicken confit with a blood orange sauce and the fresh fruit sabayon with mango sorbet.  Talk about east meeting west!

Temple Country Retreat and Spa

The grayness continued that day and by dinner we were seeking something warm and fuzzy.  How could we go wrong with a characterful Irish pub dating from 1750? With a little bar at the front with a welcoming fire and a traditional back bar where Irish families were enjoying each others’ company,Grogan’s was a little window into the old meets new Ireland.  We were greeted like long lost friends by Miriam Grogan, the owner, who suggested a hot mulled port wine to warm our bones. Served with a slice of lemon it sure did the trick. My mother always reminded me that no one does potatoes like the Irish so needless to say we were excited to dig into the rich and hearty Irish potato soup, extra flavorful with little bits of bacon. Miriam then suggested we try the ham hock, a large portion of meat so tender it fell off the bone, and the sole with a dill cream sauce rounded out a meal that went far beyond standard pub grub. I watched as Miriam hopped from table to table getting all the village gossip and making everyone laugh at her stories. I have no doubt that the Irish stew there when it isn’t sold out is one for the Guiness book.

The Left Bank Bistro

The next day was cheerier so we ventured about 10 kilometers south into Athlone for lunch at The Left Bank Bistro, owned by Annie McNamara and Mary McCullagh.  Our curiosity got the better of us and we couldn’t help but speculate whether the food would take on a French sensibility. Surprise, no steak frites here! The innovative menu with Asian and Mediterranean influences using fresh local seafood was influenced by Annie’s Australian upbringing and love of travel. Imagine that!  A tandoori chicken breast on focaccia with a garlic mayonnaise set the bar pretty high for exotic menu items in Ireland and the home-made vinaigrette salad dressing must have something to do with the restaurant’s choice of names.  By the way the girls were smart enough to bottle it as a take away for all of the lucky guests that pass through their doors.  Please don’t get me started on their way with desserts. Whoever would have thought that Ireland would produce one of the best lemon meringue pies? Hats off to these girls who clearly have created a culinary masterpiece smack in the middle of the country.

The Left Bank Bistro

The Left Bank Bistro

Next day we were anxious to venture to other counties to further our search for innovative Irish cooking and chose the famous County Mayo. You know what they say, “Go west …” So, we did. Again we decided to start with a notable hotel kitchen to get our feet wet so to speak, and the stately Mount Falcon County House Hotel, outside of Ballina, seemed the perfect choice. The hotel’s restaurant is aptly named The Kitchen and this is where Chef Philippe Farineau truly works magic. The restaurant is a member of an organization called Good Food Ireland, that is dedicated to discovering the best food being served in Ireland and focuses on local and artisan food products. With 173 members throughout the country, six of them in Mayo, the network of restaurants, cafes, pubs and markets as well as food shops, producers and cooking schools has a common goal to drive Ireland forward as a food tourism destination. All their members promise a genuine Irish food experience. What better endorsement could we have before beginning our journey with Monsieur Farineau?  Well, actually, the 2 AA Rosettes he had been awarded in 2008 for “Irish Produce French Heart” figured pretty large in our choice.

We started with Bellinis, even though Venice was far from our minds. It was awfully nice though, to be taken back to the continent in such an out of the way place. With a plan to climb Croagh Patrick overlooking Clew Bay the next day, we couldn’t say no to the seared Clew Bay scallops which practically melted in our mouths.  We’d been hearing for days about the bounty of salmon and trout from the River Moy and nearby Lough Conn and the Kitchen prides itself on sourcing all its seafood from local supplier, Joe Garvin.  Wisely, we decided to listen to the bugles and chose the filet of local salmon poached in red wine and served in its’ reduction with pink peppercorn and star anise.  Alright, we all know that the French have a way with fish but this dish nearly had us planning to do some fishing of our own. But how would we get it back?  I swear I’ll have that figured out before my next visit. Chef Philippe insisted we try a morsel of his spicy aubergine lasagna with asparagus tips, a specialty.  Anyone who has ever attempted a new riff on this classic knows that it can easily become your Waterloo.  Guess what?  I think Philippe knows something we don’t know because his interpretation of this one may have had something to do with those Rosettes. When I stared intently in his eyes and begged him to reveal the spices he combined he suddenly had to attend to something in the kitchen. Such is the way with masters of “the kitchen” especially when (as in this case) the chef gives his own cooking classes.  If 3 Rosettes are possible, The Kitchen should easily earn a third.

The next day we woke to fresh sultana scones with clotted cream and an aromatic lapsang souchong tea. After these few days in Ireland I had finally left my Starbuck’s fix by the wayside. The smoky piney character and distinctive taste, not to mention the strong kick, got us out the door and on our way to Westport which we had heard was Mayo’s most alluring town. We weren’t disappointed when we reached the cinematic setting perched on a wide expanse of Clew Bay dotted with islands and framed by mountains. We read that the bay is said to have 365 islands, one for every day of the year.  If only we could have 365 Irish meals while visiting each one of them.  After touring the village we drove to the town of Murrisk right outside Westport to begin our climb up the Pilgrim’s Path 2,500 feet to the top of Croagh Patrick, one of the most memorable hikes of my life.  The three hour endeavor struck a spiritual chord that I think forever changed me. Afterward, I needed to reflect over a nice hot pub lunch, something I’d grown to love since my first visit here years ago.

The Tavern

The hot pink façade of The Tavern across the road from the seashore was like a lighthouse in the storm.  If the food was as colorful, we’d be in for a treat. I’ll go out on a limb and vote owners Ruth & Myles O’Brien the gastropub couple du jour especially since Myles’ food practically reinvents the category. We were floored by the huge selection of fresh local seafood with practically two thirds of the menu fish so starting with a seafood chowder was a no brainer.  Served with their wonderful brown bread it was simply the best I’ve ever tasted.  We paired it with the Oysters Kirkpatrick, grilled and set off with lardons of bacon and a Worcester sauce.  After a nice break and some fascinating conversation with Ms. Myles about the area’s mystique, we dove straight into more of the local catch, landed an hour ago according to Ruth. Perhaps we were missing the comfort factor of great pub food at that moment and Myles’ pan roasted medallions of monkfish with a light thyme mousse and the deep fried filet of plaice served with a caperberry mayo and fries jumpstarted our motors for late afternoon exploring.  Who says that only the British can do fish and chips?

The Tavern

I hope by now you’re hearing me loud and clear – local food and produce, farm to table, non celebrity culinary wizards, home cooking with an emphasis on flavor, classics done in a new way – these are some of the catchphrases for the creativity flowing out of Ireland’s hospitality sector today.  Perhaps I’ve put a little too much emphasis on my enjoyment of the food but how can you blame me?

The Tavern

Our last dinner in Ireland at The Market Kitchen on top of Brennans Lane Bar in Ballina was the magic carpet that helped carry me on a cloud back home. The open kitchen invited serious observation and what husband and wife owners, Susan Walsh and Chef Kieran Sweeney call their “raw theater.” Featured in the Bridgestone Guide’s Best in Ireland for 2 consecutive years, the emphasis again here was on the finest and freshest of local seasonal produce.  The menu was all about variety with choices ranging from eclectic pizzas to familiar comfort food as well as sophisticated takes on simple dishes. Whatever your mood strikes you.

The Market Kitchen

We wanted our last meal to be a memory of all the great food we’d tasted in Ireland yet we wanted to connect to home. How could we not give in to more great seafood from the area? We chose dishes from two bays in Mayo, one in the far north the other the northwest, sort of bookends to each other.  These were just a bit beyond our reach during our stay but all the same, the two, along with Clew Bay, form the perfect marine triangle around Mayo. What a finish, we thought. A Killala Bay seafood pie had the flakiest crust and the baked Crab Claws from Blacksod Bay reminded us of summer weekends spent in Ocean City, Maryland.  It was the perfect marriage of coastal fare, one quintessentially Irish, the other a little bit American.

The Market Kitchen

Since these were filling and we had combined a starter and main course together, we opted to share one of Chef Kieran’s pizzas, always a perennial favorite yet something we’d forgotten about in a week’s time.  And you would have, too.  The selection was large but it wasn’t hard for us to zero in on the Pizza de la Mare, which perfectly combined the local catch with the usual trimmngs.  Tiger prawns, mussles and smoked salmon added an element of surprise to an Itlaian standard and the capers and fresh dill seasoning were a great call on chef’s part.  We enjoyed the lively ambience and reflected on a week filled with adventure, culinary and otherwise.  I had to personally thank our hosts at The Market Kitchen who were smart enough to include enough choices on their menu so that guests could feasibly eat there every day.  The evening like every other ended all too soon and we wondered how we’d leave all this behind.

The Market Kitchen

The Market Kitchen

The Market Kitchen

But leave we did, and as difficult as that was, we felt privileged that we’d made a new discovery about Ireland … who knew that it was a country with great food, too?  We’ll be going back for seconds pretty soon I think.

www.goodfoodireland.ie