The Other Arizona: Pinetop-Lakeside

Beyond Arizona’s revered Grand Canyon and Phoenix’s five-star destination scene is a small-town getaway within the state’s pristine White Mountains – Pinetop-Lakeside. An area so welcoming and authentically down-home, it provides a much-needed visit to life’s simpler past. Less than four hours northeast of Phoenix and on average 25-30 degrees cooler than the Arizona capital, it seems decades removed from the trappings of today’s metropolitan centers.

A town known for its proximity to a premier Home Depot and a main street dotted with such basics as McDonald’s, Walmart, and Taco Bell, it’s also a place celebrated for its setting at 6,800 feet in elevation amid the world’s largest stand of ponderosa pines, 65 lakes and streams, 200 miles of multi-use trails and all the seasonal activities that accompany this assortment of nature at its best. A bonus is Pinetop-Lakeside’s proximity to the Fort Apache Reservation, which adds to the area’s allure.

Opt Outside at Pinetop-Lakeside

Pinetop Lakeside
The Forest Beckons Cynthia Dial | Travel Squire

With a population of only 4,500 and a popular spot for city-dwelling Arizonans’ second homes, this is a destination best enjoyed from the comfort of a cabin. So, instead of using Hilton Honors or Marriott Bonvoy points, go the authentic route with Vrbo or Airbnb.

Once settled, lace up a pair of hiking boots, get out the fishing pole, or just grab a good book and a set of binoculars to observe the area’s four-legged inhabitants. Your neighbors include antelope, black bear, elk, mule deer, and more (including raccoons, known for their comedic entertainment). It’s said that some of the best wildlife viewing in the state, possibly the nation, is found within Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests (two forests in one; the former named for tribes settling in the area). Encompassing more than two million acres of mountain country, the forests’ major attractions are eight cold-water lakes and the Mogollon Rim, which extends 200 miles from Flagstaff into New Mexico.

Jacques Marsh Wildlife Area, a manmade marsh covering almost 100 acres is scattered with small islands used by waterfowl as their nesting sites. Bald eagles are frequently spotted in winter as are elk seeking water in early morning or at sunset during the colder months.

The Panorama Trail is a moderate nine-mile loop that can be heavily trafficked but on a clear day can showcase a view as far away as the San Francisco Peaks. Ice Cave Trail provides a walk through cool pine/juniper forests and features what has been deemed an ice cave at its midpoint. The length of the Mogollon Rim Interpretive Trail is a mere mile but at an elevation of 7,500 feet on the edge of the rim, its vistas are unparalleled.

Cast a Line

Good fishing is plentiful – trout, bass, walleye, pike, catfish, sunfish and more. Sixteen-year resident Kathy Gardner says, “There are several good fishing areas within five to 10 minutes of town,” and proceeds to name Fool Hollow Lake and Show Low Lake.

It’s said that while northeastern Arizona doesn’t typically come to mind when naming the country’s best bass fishing spots, Fool Hollow Lake is an exception offering both quantity and quality year after year. An additional perk is that in wintertime the birdlife is abundant and includes bald eagles, and ospreys. In springtime, an assortment of more colorful birds can be viewed during migration. Show Low Lake has a reputation as the best for walleye in Arizona and with many trout being able to survive winter in its waters, it’s possible to catch large ones the following season. Woodland Lake and Park has been called Pinetop-Lakeside’s “Crown Jewel” due to the park’s many amenities coupled with its noted trout fishing.

A Delicious Dining Scene

Folksy Signage in Pinetop-Lakeside
Small town humor! Cynthia Dial | Travel Squire

Replete with hiking, boating, golfing, fishing, and even downhill skiing at the White Mountain Apache Reservation, there’s no shortage of outdoor fun but there is also a variety of top-notch eateries. Darbi’s Cafe, a long-time area staple, is known for its namesake proprietor’s comfort food such as Awful Waffle – a Belgian waffle topped with chicken fried steak, sausage gravy, two eggs and warm maple syrup. The Bistro at Annie’s is renowned for its artisan grilled cheese covered with a cheese puff topping. Thai-raised owner/cook Noy Garbeil personally prepares meals for her diners at Mountain Thai.

At Charlie Clark’s Steakhouse patrons may spot owner Bill Gibson and his family at the end of the bar where they frequently hold court. So outgoing is daughter-in-law and bartender, Brandie Gibson, that she could easily be confused as a restaurant ambassador. After a handful of visits and always seeing her working (along with both Bill and his wife Trish), it’s clear that this family’s motto seems to be “all hands-on deck” all the time. It would be a mistake not to order a mesquite broiled steak with a fully loaded baked potato. Not visiting their outdoor venue, The Orchard would be an even bigger mistake. Open from Memorial weekend into September, this two-plus acre site features music, dancing, drinks, barbecue, and signage that displays fun, folksy humor.

Pinetop-Lakeside Festive Happenings

The Orchard at Pinetop-Lakeside
The Orchard Festivities Cynthia Dial | Travel Squire

The Orchard also serves as the “it” spot for July 4th when it additionally hosts the Annual Fine Art & Craft Festival. Standouts include Mike Greenfield, a sculptor of Native American figures, Jo K Davis, a retired violinist and noted textile artist, and Gary Graham, a one-time professional rodeo rider, currently the creator of custom-designed Western frames.

Distinctive around-town shopping includes The Gingerbread Cabin for fudge and novelty items and The Burly Bear, known for its rustic home décor – from custom-carved doors and mirrors to chainsaw art sculptures including larger-than-life bears.

Reflective of its residents who love celebrating everything, the area calendar is booming with events from spring’s Kite Festival and summer’s White Mountains Balloon Festival to Run to the Pines Car Show each fall and the Christmas Tree Lighting Festival in December.

In the end, Pinetop-Lakeside serves as Arizona’s unofficial time machine back to the 50s. Like catching up with an old friend over a cup of coffee and a slice of apple pie, it serves up pure comfort!

Where to Eat:

Darbi’s Cafe
darbiscafe.com

The Bistro at Annie’s
thebistroatannies.com

Mountain Thai
mountainthai.com

Charlie Clark’s Steakhouse
charlieclarks.com

What to Do:

Jacques Marsh Wildlife Area
jacques-marsh-wildlife-area.com

Sitgreaves National Forests
www.fs.usda.gov/asnf

The Burly Bear
www.theburlybear.com