MUNDO at The Paper Factory Hotel

Remember when the thought of having dinner in the restaurant of your hotel wasn’t exactly exciting?  Guess what?  Those days are long gone.  From the still-on-fire Augustine at the Beekman Hotel, to the supremely popular NoMad at the NoMad Hotel and now over the bridges and through the tunnels to The Wythe in Williamsburg, Brooklyn and even in Long Island City with Mundo at The Paper Factory, hotel restaurants are blazing a trail of their own among the myriad of amped up establishments recently opened in New York.

A cavernous 86,000 square foot industrial hulk on 36^th St. in Long Island City, formerly the home of Romo Paper Products, is now the Paper Factory Hotel, a lifestyle boutique property at the nexus of the area’s burgeoning art, design and cultural scene. The dot-come era of the 90’s produced a wave of resurgence and re-development here in this Western Queens neighborhood directly across the East River from Manhattan’s Upper East Side and bordering the popular Greek enclave of Astoria.  As a result, it’s a new cool hood for trendy city slickers less than a 10 minute Uber across the bridge.

Set in a dynamic bi-level corner space within the hotel, Mundo offers customers a stylish dining and drinking experience bringing guests a playful menu of eclectic American dishes. At the helm is Yonatan Klainman, an Israeli chef who creates beautiful twists on classic dishes highlighting Mediterranean and global flavors and focusing on fresh, seasonal ingredients from local vendors and farms, as well as homemade dishes. Trained from a young age, Yonatan had over 15 years of experience in the culinary field and has done stints in both Las Vegas and LA prior to working as a private gourmet chef for the past seven years.

A glance at the list of House Plates, which spanned the gamut of fish, fowl & meat, and I confess I wanted to order everything.  I could not remember the last time I’d had that thought in a restaurant (alas, true). From a Gnocchi with Lamb Ragout to a Half Free Range Chicken with Spinach and Mashed Potatoes, clearly there was a comfort food sounder and for me that spurred excitement. But I’m not talking about Mac & Cheese, ok? Even though, of course, it’s on the menu.

Chef Yonathan wields a deft hand with everyday entrees and manages to elevate them to higher ground. After awesome craft cocktails from the talented barman (the Zen with Gin, Yuzu Juice and Lemongrass Syrup and the L’Al, a delicious blend of Mescal, Mestika and Grapefruit) we sampled a selection of appetizers. A Boston Lettuce Salad with Gorgonzola cheese and an Italian Vinaigrette was super refreshing while the Fluke Crudo melted in our mouths. And, an oh so tender Grilled Spanish Octopus with Roasted Red Peppers and Haricots Verts with an Olive Puree showcased Chef’s Yonatan’s geographic roots.

Entrees like Grilled Lamb with Fingerling Potatoes, a mainstay on Mediterranean themed menus, tempted us but instead we opted to discover the chef’s prowess with seafood. The steamed Branzino in a Sweet Soy was served with Shitake Mushrooms and a Vegetable Medley, a perfect dieter’s delight that was still full of flavor while a Pan Roasted Halibut with Shallots and a Champagne Cream Sauce was artfully presented on the plate like a blooming flower.

The edited dessert menu offered irresistible choices:  a Chocolate Fondant with Vanilla Gelato, a Panna Cotta, Espresso Crème Brûlée and an assortment of Gelato.  We opted for the Panna Cotta and the Crème Brûlée , both memorable.  Glasses of Chilean sparkling Rose were a fitting close to the meal with Espresso, of course.

The screened-in industrial interior borders on the romantic with a mix of urban contemporary furnishings, ubiquitous bare bulb pendant lighting and intricate beaded lanterns hanging over the bar which was perfect for musing and grazing after dinner.  We eyed a massive sculptural column of almost real library books installed at the top of a spiral staircase in the corner while sipping an excellent Strawberry Fire with Jack Daniel’s Fire and a Limoncello. The decidedly international staff here is extremely attentive and goes out of their way to make sure you’re pleased with everything.

My suggestion:  get out of Manhattan and head to Mundo for Brunch if you can’t do dinner. It’s served until 3 pm on both Saturday and Sunday and there’s a lot to see and do in the area.