72 Hours in Trondheim

With deep narrow fjords flanked by majestic mountains displaying ribbons of cascading waterfalls—there’s no question Norway’s landscapes are spectacular. Beyond the landscapes, though, Norway’s cities offer a blend of culture, luxury and culinary excellence.

Trondheim, Norway’s third largest city, exemplifies this. The cultural center of the Trøndelag region, this picturesque city with its timber warehouses of red, gold, brown and green flanking the Nidelva River, provides a fascinating contrast of old and new. Home to the majestic Nidaros Cathedral, the Norwegian University of Science and Technology and a lively music scene, there’s plenty to see and do here. Whether you want to immerse yourself in a winter wonderland or chase the midnight sun, Trondheim could be the answer. Here are my suggestions for a quick 72 hours there.

Day 1: Vikings, Royalty and a Goddess

Nidaros Cathedral

Start with a climb to the top of the majestic Nidaros Cathedral. Rumored to be built over the grave of Viking King Olav, Norway’s patron saint, the world’s northernmost medieval cathedral is one of the city’s greatest treasures. Nidaros has served as an important pilgrimage site for centuries. Not for the claustrophobic, the climb to the top leads through narrow passageways and up a winding medieval staircase. Mesmerizing panoramic views of the city and the surrounding fjord await as a reward for your efforts.

Afterward, head beneath the cathedral to the crypt where a fascinating collection of medieval tombstones begs to be explored. Found during excavations from as early as the 12th century, many have inscriptions in Latin and Old Norse. Some even include portraits of the deceased. Also on display, a glass-topped grave with the skeletal remains of a Viking poses the question … could it be King Olav?

Be sure to stop at the Archbishop’s Palace located next to the cathedral where a coronation museum houses the Crown Regalia exhibition – a collection of exquisite Norwegian Crown Jewels.

A Norwegian Goddess of Love

On a prior visit to Trondheim, I was introduced to an enterprising young woman with a dream. Hailing from a long line of boat captains, Amanda spent the year following our introduction restoring a traditional Åfjordsboat from Norway’s Trøndelag region. Built using ancient techniques passed down through generations, the vessel bears a striking resemblance to the Viking ships that were sailed more than 1000  years ago. Combining her passion for boating and her hometown, Amanda developed unique tours for her new company, Trondheim by Boat. For my return to Trondheim, Captain Amanda welcomed me aboard Frøya—named for the Norwegian Goddess of Love.

Trondheim by Boat takes you on a journey along the river Nidelva flowing through the heart of the city eventually venturing into the adjoining Trondheim fjord. Sights along the way include the fish market Ravnkloa, the channel area and old harbor, the colorful wharfs of Bryggerekka and the old city bridge with its red portals of happiness. Captain Amanda shares old and new tales of the town introducing you to its history, culture and intriguing characters.

For a spectacular winter experience, book a Northern Lights tour. You’ll venture out into the Trondheim Fjord away from city lights to watch for this gorgeous natural phenomenon. Don’t worry about the cold, Amanda has plenty of blankets, hot chocolate or coffee to keep you warm.

Day 2: A Walk Through History

Sverresborg Trøndelag Folk Museum

Founded in 1909 by a group of enthusiastic citizens from Trondheim who wanted to preserve distinctive old buildings from the region, Sverresborg Trøndelag Folk Museum now spans more than 70 acres. The third-largest cultural history museum in Norway, it exhibits an impressive collection of houses, artifacts and photos—including the house that inspired Elsa’s summer home for the Disney movie, Frozen.

There are more than 80 historical buildings on the site displaying building techniques particular to the Trøndelag region. The oldest building, the stave church from Haltdalen, dates to 1170 A.D.

Live animals, gardens and opportunities to try your hand at archery—Viking style—add to the experience. And be sure to stop in the candy shop for old-fashioned sweets.

Bakklandet

Who would turn down an opportunity to cross a bridge of happiness?  Built in 1691, the Gamle Bybro (Old Town Bridge) enjoys the moniker “Portal of Happiness” making it a popular spot for marriage proposals. While a stroll across the bridge won’t necessarily lead to marriage, it will lead to Bakklandet—Trondheim’s Old Town.

Cobblestone streets lined with small, carefully preserved 17^th-century houses transformed into cafés and galleries give Bakklandet its own unique allure. Be sure to pop into the Bakklandet Skyddstation located just over the bridge. Owner Girli Riis Holmen personally greets everyone who enters her charming café. Don’t miss the pickled herring and a shot of Aquavit—Norway’s liquid treasure.

Day 3: Rocking and Hiking

Rockheim

You can’t miss Rockheim. Seriously, you can’t. Uniquely designed with what’s referred to as a “Top Box” perched atop a 1920s repurposed flour warehouse, Norway’s National Museum of Pop and Rock leads you down the road to stardom—well, maybe.

Musical artifacts combine with interactive exhibits throughout this museum. Explore instruments and jam to popular Norwegian tracks at the Rockheim Jam Station. Or, create your own mix of Norwegian hip hop tunes in the Hip Hop Room. You can even try break dancing if you dare. Knowing that break dancing attempts would likely  break something of mine, I chose to pursue a guitar playing future.  Stepping into the Ronni Room, I was greeted by a video version of Norwegian guitarist Ronni Le Tekrø. Certain stardom was in the cards for me, I grabbed a guitar and followed Ronni’s virtual lead until he walked away clearly having lost his patience with my lack of musical talent.

Hitting the Trails with Ingrid

Once you’ve exhausted your rock star mentors, head out into nature with another Norwegian treasure, personal trainer, Ingrid. Born and raised near Trondheim’s forests, Ingrid merges her passion for fitness and Trondheim’s surrounding nature with fully customizable tours.

Join Ingrid on a private walking tour through the city center and around the riverbank. If you’re seeking more of a challenge, she will happily lead you along uphill trails through the forest to an overlook. Your workout will be rewarded with spectacular views of the Trondheim Fjord and beyond. Outdoor adventures continue through the winter with cross country skiing and snowshoeing just outside the city center. Be sure to bundle up. A winter wonderland awaits!