You could easily blink and miss Tongue & Cheek, sandwiched between 3 other restaurants, 1 Greek and 2 Italian, in a kind’ve South Beach “restaurant row” strip mall. Talk about competition. But don’t miss this place if you’re headed to hedonistic SoBe soon; it’s like nothing else in Miami. Situated in the placid, residential “SoFi” (South of Fifth) neighborhood, the large open space with down to earth industrial décor, masonry walls and raw lighting is enlivened by the broad view straight out to busy commercial Washington Street. You’re connected yet distanced from what’s going on outside and that can be a good thing on the beach. Tongue and Cheek has a kind of suburban warehouse groove going on with wall to wall banquettes on one side and a long, long striking onyx bar on the other that invites you to sit down and cast your fate to the wind.
Poised to be a foodie haven, the 150 seat restaurant, owned by Michael Reginbogin and Chef Jamie DeRosa, is somewhat of a revelation in terms of cuisine. We’re talking adventurous, ok? South Beach doesn’t strive to be a follower with regard to anything, least of all fine dining, and for the most part this tiny enclave clinging to the end of the country thinks it’s on par with Vegas when it comes to catering to the epicurious tourist.
Happily, for all you foodies on the prowl to discover new horizons, you’ll be surprised to find that Tongue and Cheek is still a neighborhood place where you can hang out with locals while advancing your palate. Now what foodie wouldn’t like that? But let’s not get on the wrong track. Says DeRosa, “We want to WOW people with simple yet sophisticated food they’ll want to eat every day,” (hint: emphasis on simple). That said, this is a place that’s about having fun and experimenting, with food and drink, of course.
WOW starts at that stunning bar helmed by Tony D’Alessio, a mixology master if ever there was one. His molecular cocktail creation, “Cran-Perina”, defies description. I lost track after the liquid nitrogen step but the drink was a winner, fresh with cranberries and blueberries. Alternately a classic Whiskey Sour with double-oaked Woodford Reserve went down easy (who knew we’d be drinking our parents’ drinks?). We made one discovery quickly. We loved the inventive cocktail menu so much we ordered another round, enjoying them with some oysters and a yummy crispy Mortadella snack, the perfect taste of savory to offset the sweet.
Chef de Cuisine Lisa Odom’s dinner menu is super ambitious and full of surprises across the board. Says Reginbogin, “We’re not a tapas or small plates restaurant but we want to give diners a way to sample and enjoy different flavors and textures.” My advice is to go for it. Appetizers embrace both classic American favorites as well as more unusual offerings. The aforementioned chilled Oysters were served with a Carbonated Cucumber Mignonette Sauce, tangy and lively, while an Oxtail Tamale was far more interesting filled with the succulent meat than the typical beef found in most Mexican restaurants. I’m an easy push over for Chicken Liver Pate especially in a French brasserie and here the French standard was up to snuff, served with pickled veggies and local honey while the Lettuce Wraps brought the Far East directly to our table, enlivened with crispy pig ears, Florida oranges and salted peanuts.
Technically complex but deceptively simple, mains deliver big flavors. Moroccan Braised Beef Short Ribs fall off the bone and are served with cous cous, feta and grilled Naan bread while a yummy Fried Chicken is given a kick in the behind when accompanied by a Tabasco Hollandaise and served with pickled red cabbage and a cheddar and bacon biscuit. And for all you hungry night owls Tongue & Cheek’s Classic American Hamburger is given a must-try-it-to-believe-it spin, the beef chuck ground in-house, cooked to perfection and served with caramelized sweet onions and pimento infused cheddar cheese on a house-made brioche bun. That should hold you until the morning party begins at 8 am in most of SoBe’s clubs.
If you’re smart though, you won’t even think about heading out before having a go at Pastry Chef Riccardo Torres’ handicraft. His Banana Coconut Cream Pie with Italian Meringue was so good we decided to keep going and ended the gastronomic meal with his Cracker Jack Milk Shake served with a sampling of house made Almond Joys. Does it get any better than that?
TS Editors Note: Sadly, Tongue & Cheek closed in October, 2015 after a year and a half run. Not bad for South Beach! Sure we’ll see more from the talented team.