Touring Cognac, France

Just as Champagne only comes from France’s Champagne region, Cognac only comes from Cognac, an area in the country’s scenic southwest corner. And one of the main producers of this famed French brandy is Hennessy, in operation since 1765. Not knowing much about Cognac and always being intrigued by vineyards and distilleries—and France, of course—I jumped at the chance to spend a few days in Cognac touring the Hennessy distillery and its vineyards and overnighting in the company’s elegant private chateau. It was quite the VIP experience, starting with a private jet, a G4 to be exact, from New Jersey’s Teterboro Airport to the regional airport in Angouleme. It was an over the top experience but if I visit again, and I hope to, I’ll likely be taking the high-speed TGV (Train Gran Vitesse -2.5 hours) from Paris to Angouleme or renting a car for the five hour drive as most visitors do. But no matter how you get there, you’ll immediately be soothed by the area’s peaceful countryside and its rhythmic rows of vines that produce what French writer Victor Hugo called the “nectar of the gods.”

Cognac (pop. 20,000), on the Charente River, is about 100 miles north of Bordeaux in the Poitou-Charentes region. In addition to its vineyards, the area is rich with pine forests, rolling green meadows, large sunflower fields and charming medieval towns boasting Romanesque churches. The town dates from the Middle Ages and its oldest section is full of narrow cobbled lanes and timber framed buildings housing local boulangeries, charcuteries and bistros. France’s first king, Frances 1, born here in 1494, granted the town a license to trade salt along the river, guaranteeing commercial success, which in turn paved the way for wine and Cognac making. You’ll find other Cognac houses here (Remy Martin, Courvoisier, Martell, etc.) but none as centrally located as Hennessy. Its headquarters are situated on a prime spot on the Charente with two large buildings on each bank of the river (a boat ferries visitors for the quick ride back and forth).

After our afternoon arrival, we headed to Chateau de Bagnolet, used exclusively by Hennessy executives and their guests who might include winemakers, distributors and celebrities attending Hennessy events (Moby had been there the week before). The 19th century manor house has eight bedrooms as well as grand salons adorned with antique furnishings, chandeliers, silk upholstered sofas and oil portraits of the Hennessy family including founder Richard Hennessy, a lord’s son from County Cork, Ireland who served in the French army’s Irish regiment. We were met by our host, Hennessy Global Ambassador Cyrille Gautier-Auriol whose passion for and knowledge of Cognac is infectious. He took us to the distillery where we learned about the rich history and production of the spirit before visiting the vineyards (the harvest is in late September). We also toured the cellars where the brandy is aged in oak barrels—a photo of Britain’s late Queen Mum touring these same cellars hung on the wall. We also enjoyed a private Cognac tasting session with one of the company’s tasters (there are several tasters and one Master Blender). My novice palette didn’t detect the aromas and flavors he did, naturally, but it was fascinating to learn how different Hennessy blends including V.S., X.O, Privilege and Paradis are created.

Back at the chateau, we had time for a quick change (no dress code per se but definitely on the dressy side in the evening) before meeting up for cocktails on the outdoor patio facing a manicured lawn and beyond, a placid lake dotted with swans. One of the cocktails that I enjoyed was a refreshing mix of ginger ale, apple juice, lime and Hennessy Black (recently introduced quite smooth and ideal for mixing). Eventually, we made our way to the dining room where on crisp linens lit by candelabras, white-gloved waiters served impeccable cuisine and poured fine French wine. Cyrille explained more about Hennessy (did you know it’s the world’s best selling Cognac? and that its emblem which appears on all bottles is a raised arm holding a broad axe?). I wanted some gossip on some of the celebrities who might have over imbibed at the Chateau (the Cognac does flow freely here) but Cyrille was much too discreet. Afterward, he invited us to the adjacent winter garden to enjoy Cuban cigars and, what else, more Cognac! It felt very much like the French version of a Merchant Ivory film and I thought, I could certainly get used to this.

The next morning we visited the barrel making factory. Incredibly, the company still makes all its barrels by hand with oak wood from surrounding forests, using no nails whatsoever, a tradition that’s been handed down by the master coopers over centuries. Back at the tasting room, the Hennessy folks had one more treat for us—we were able to mix our own special blend of Cognac. I tasted several different types, picking the ones I liked the most. I leaned more toward the smoother, citrusy tastes as opposed to the stronger ones with smoky and spicy overtones. I eventually blended them all together in a slim glass bottle labeled with my own name it … a very nice touch. Our final stop was a tour of Hennessy’s art gallery which exhibited the work of famed French photographer Marc Riboud (a friend of Hennessy and former chateau guest) and the tasting room/gift shop where visitors can sample the goods and purchase Hennessy blends as well as modern glassware, one of a kind bottle openers and stainless steel cocktail shakers.

Our next and final day we flew to Paris and checked into the luxe Hotel Meurice (where I spied Catherine Deneuve in huge sunglasses and upswept hair carrying shopping bags in the lobby). We were to meet the Chairman & CEO of Hennessy Cognac, Bernard Peillon that evening for dinner. It was a glorious sunny day so I set out exploring. The Tuileries Gardens were right across the street so I ambled along, buying a crepe avec Nutella, then window shopping on Rue Saint-Honore which is lined with designer boutiques. I also decided to brave the crowds at the Louvre joining the twenty-deep crush of people ogling the Mona Lisa and other famous paintings then slipped away to less crowded galleries. Back at the Meurice bar that evening, I ordered a flute of rose Champagne with Hennessy Black. I wouldn’t have done that before but I have a whole new appreciation for Cognac now. I couldn’t wait to meet Monsieur Peillon to show off my newfound knowledge for the spirit. And I’d also surely impress my friends back in New York. Perhaps I’d even have a little tasting of my own.