Where Culture Meets Relaxation
Let me begin by saying that like so many people I’m fascinated with twins. I guess you could say that when I chose to go to Trinidad and Tobago, I was curious if these sister islands were “twin islands” like the “twin cities” of Minneapolis / St. Paul. So I asked a friend who was born there and someone else whom I knew had visited. Both said they were nothing alike but I wanted to find out for myself.
First, Tobago got raves for its’ undiscovered beaches and laid-back nature vibe. By contrast, Trinidad’s high marks were mostly for its’ yearly Carnival celebration. I would be heading there mid-August, the height of the rainy season. Having already suffered through a couple wet Caribbean adventures, I hesitated. When I asked my friend from Trinidad about the weather she said, “Oh, there’ll be a little rain each day but it’s usually brief and then the sun comes out.” OK, I can live with that. Anyone that’s been to the Caribbean knows that it can be better off season so throwing caution to the wind I booked a long week with a plan to split it down the middle, four days on each island.
Heading out of Trinidad’s Port of Spain airport to the new downtown Hyatt Regency, the rain started. I wondered then what the weather would be like on Tobago. The cabbie’s answer mirrored others I got in the coming days. The weather would be different on Tobago, yes, but in the Caribbean it’s either season or off, and off comes with a promise of rain. Trinidad’s unique geographic positioning though as the southernmost island in the Caribbean, outside the hurricane belt and practically in South America, substantially increased the chances of sunshine again. I held on to that hope when the downpour continued for much of the next three days and decided to enjoy myself in the Hyatt’s lap of luxury. Why not? It was hailed as the pleasure palace of the island from all accounts and the location, luxurious accommodations, food, spa and trendy environment not to mention a world-class gym chased the rainy day blues away for most of my stay. I was craving a daily workout, spa treatments, and a perfect martini to end the soggy afternoons and the Hyatt delivered. Who can argue with an infinity pool overlooking the Gulf of Paria, a world class restaurant with an international menu round the clock and enormous flat-screens in both the living and bedrooms of the suites? The décor was spiffy too, complete with a spa bathroom clad in wall to wall travertine. I was there to relax after all while soaking up the one of a kind island culture. Plus, a lively downtown hub of activity was less than 10 minutes away by cab when I finally needed a change of scenery. With the first letup, I headed there to sample the island’s famous multi-cultural cuisine.
Unique to the Caribbean, the people of Trinidad are of two major ethnicities – Indo and Afro. Together, the two create a hybrid of island culture most recognizable in the island’s food. Any similarity between them seems to be purely by chance. From hearty Creole mainstays like oxtail soup to the array of curries common in most East Indian dishes, all of Port of Spain’s restaurants have big personalities and those lining Ariapita Avenue near Queens Park, downtown’s main square, offer a hungry man satisfaction. My first stop was Allyson Hennessy’s Veni Mange as the name (literally, come eat) lured me in. Allyson is known for her upbeat regional flavors and is somewhat of a celebrity chef on the island. Her artsy pub is a great watering hole and the restaurant is a hub of island activity. Decorative artwork displayed from all over the region animates the dimly lit dining room. I ordered the steamed grouper stuffed with shrimp in a coconut tomato sauce and that dish proved to be the debut of the food odyssey of the next 3 days.
How the Indian fare would stack up, I wondered, as I nibbled on meticulously crafted petit fours back in my hotel suite. The Hyatt surprised me daily with gourmet treats left discreetly every evening and at lights out my mind was already on the breakfast menu. Sadly, daylight brought a wet breakfast on the veranda and after again weathering the dreary storms for much of the day my mouth watered for something spicy. Finally with a break at dusk, I set out for Apsara, Trinidad’s first North Indian restaurant and recommended by a trusted source. It felt vaguely like New York’s Indian Row in the East Village when I set foot inside and soon I was feasting on fat chicken samosas, fresh pompano tandoori, garlic nan and lamb curry, fiery hot with red rogan djosh curry. The portions were big enough for two and the mango chutney cooled my tongue. I left with a passion to discover more of Indo-Trinidadian life on the island next day and I’d heard that the landmark Waterloo Temple in the Sea was a sight not to be missed. Plus, I still hadn’t tried Trinidad’s most famous dish, Bake and Shark, served all over its most famous beach, Maracas Bay. When the rain at last cleared on day four, I needed to strike while the iron was hot so I hired a guide for the entire day with the goal to immerse myself in the fascinating Hindu culture all morning then picnic on Maracas Bay beach all afternoon.
The Hindu sights are centralized in an area known as Carapichaima amid rolling fields of sugar cane not far from the hotel. From there it would take a little over an hour to head in the opposite direction to the scenic north coast hugging the Caribbean. My affable guide recommended by the ever helpful Hyatt staff agreed the plan was do-able. He was a sage regarding the island’s history and the banter made the time fly as we navigated the bustling roads of Trinidad. When we drove up to the dazzling white Waterloo Temple in the Sea, it was hard not to be moved. Sitting literally in the Gulf of Paria surrounded by mudflats revealed at low tide, the entrance was bordered by hundreds of colored flags flapping in the wind. I was told they represented the prayers of the faithful and turning my head, I saw that a family funeral was just getting underway. In the adjacent flatland at the water’s edge, a pyre was piled high and about to be lit. Try to imagine the solemnity of the scene if you can as I continued along the long pier that approached this holy place. I removed my shoes and entered the solemn rotunda where a private service was in progress, incense wafting over the breeze from the bay. All was tranquil, and the Hindi priest smiled as he blessed me. I bowed and returned the smile while feeling the warmth of the sun, its’ rays bouncing off the multi-colored glass windows that framed the octagonal room. I’d been waiting for this and the heat beat down my back as we made our exit toward the flames piercing the azure sky. The ignited pyre was just then raging to a gallop and I realized that my spiritual experience had reached a climax.
The rest of my last afternoon in Trinidad followed the path of the sun. The hilly drive through the densely forested headlands leading to Maracas Bay cooled us down a bit and after a steep plunge, my eyes feasted on turquoise waters butting the pristine white sand of Trinidad’s most spectacular beach. Cradled in a mountainous cove and dotted with tall palms, this had to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. True I was hungry for sun but I was hungrier for my Bake and Shark experience. I was warned to take it easy with the super spicy hot sauce and that I’d go back for seconds. The star of Trinidad’s epicurean repertoire, Bake and Shark is pure comfort food. It consists of a fat, juicy wedge of lightly fried shark mounded in a Johnny cake with hysterical portions of condiments and topped with hot sauce. No, it’s nothing like Arthur Teachers’, trust me. Like the boardwalk at Coney Island, numerous open air stalls lining the parking lot hawk the goods but I’d got the word that Richard’s was numero uno. I waited patiently for still yet another foodie moment and as I tried to get my mouth around the scrumptious bun, I knew that one definitely was not enough. It’s easy to eat till your heart’s content here as the tab won’t break the bank. The sun blazed hotter and racing to cool off again, I ran to the sea and embraced the best part of a Caribbean vacation. The day ended with a panoramic sunset as we climbed our way upward back to Port of Spain and I left Trinidad the following morning having learned the lesson that good things are truly worth the wait.
Landing at Tobago’s tiny Crown Point International airport after a quick twenty minute flight I had a little déjà vu. The small arrivals area with a tiny horseshoe of a conveyor belt and a single display ad for Carib beer took me back years to my first Caribbean trip. The sight of this little island airstrip with a stuffed swordfish hanging over the single check-in area clued me in to how different my days on Tobago would be. My bag appeared in minutes and I taxied out of the scorching sunlight straightaway to Bacolet Bay, about fifteen minutes drive from the airport and a couple minutes past Scarborough, Tobago’s capital. Looking around, I noticed I was the only tourist. Oh yeah, it was obvious Tobago was nothing like Trinidad.
In terms of accommodations, I believe there’s something to be said for overcompensating and wisely I opted to bypass the Crown Point area where much of Tobago’s tourist trade is centered and plant myself at the luxe Bacolet Bay Beach Resort, tucked away in a hilly bend above a secluded private beach. There were tales of the owner’s past turn as a runway model and how the Tobago native had finally followed her dream of owning a small hotel. With just twenty rooms and a happening restaurant on-site, I could make friends and still stay on the foodie train. The lobby hinted at the hotel’s vibe … three crystal chandeliers sat dead center amid a quirky assortment of Asian and neo-Baroque furnishings. Hmmm, Tobago trying to do Starck, I thought? Loud music poured out of the restaurant’s bar and with a name like Havana, I imagined mojitos with Cuban cigars. I spent the next four days loving my ocean view room with an oversized balcony that was great for sunsets and imagined what it would be like having a private beach almost all to oneself every day of the year. I took to swimming a lot and when a gentle thunderstorm descended each night at dusk I segued to the heated infinity pool. Needless to say I got to know everyone working in the trendy restaurant many of them off-islanders and marveled that the bartender could actually mix a perfect martini. The Asian-Cuban food ran the gamut from tuna taquitos to seared fresh cod done Havana style and the talented chef outdid himself every night with specials that broke the rules of island cooking. Guests shared favorite recommendations nightly with each other of what to see around the island and which beach was the best. Here, there was no anonymity. We were one big happy family with no talk of work or the economy, living each day moment to moment in a splendid sunshine that never let up.
Memorable in my ninety-six hours in this lush paradise were two idyllic afternoons on Pigeon Point beach, the only beach in the Caribbean that is so special it charges an entrance fee. Buccoo Reef, a coral reef to die-for and the Nylon Pool, both a short boat ride offshore, brought out the nature boy in me as I snorkeled till the cows came home then took a dip in the shallow, crystal clear surf. I also opted to have my own wheels right away and was able to rent a car right from the hotel. Even though I knew I’d dread the treacherous hairpin curves driving on the left after dark, I managed to make it back from a day trip along the coastal road without getting car sick. Sure the first fifteen minutes were fun until I had to remove my sunglasses to stay on the road. That jaunt got me to Speyside, a sleepy fishing village largely known for scuba diving, good snorkeling and access to two tiny offshore islands … and of course, Jemma’s Sea View Kitchen. Bustling with tourists and every table full, Jemma’s had the kind of island flavor that’s unforgettable. Perched in the boughs of a tree and squatting on a picturesque stretch of sand, Jemma’s is a destination. My lunch of fresh grilled fish was finished off with a dip in the warm sea prior to dessert. Now that’s a way to end a meal. When the day came to pack my bag, depression set in. That says it all.
I hope I’ll go back to Trinidad & Tobago one day. Both islands are primed for exploring and I’ve never met friendlier people in the Caribbean. Plus, who knew that gastronomy would figure so largely in each one’s DNA? Far and apart though, each one is a very different egg and I have doubts about them sharing a “twinship.” Let’s just say they are more like paternal twins rather than fraternal twins.
The area code for Trinidad and Tobago is 868. Phone numbers have 7 digits.
Where to Stay: Trinidad
Hyatt Regency: Highly recommended for both the leisure and business traveler with 5 star status. Deluxe rooms and suites with Wi-Fi and high-speed Internet access overlooking the waterfront. Four restaurants, full-service spa, 24 hour state of the art fitness center, infinity pool.#1 Wrightson Road, Port-of-Spain; 623-2222; www.trinidad.hyatt.com
Crowne Plaze: Opposite the International Financial Center and Waterfront, ideal for business travel. Revolving restaurant 360 degrees with great views of downtown Port of Spain. Good Sunday brunch.Wrightson Rd and London St, Port of Spain; 625-3366; www.crowneplaza.com
Where to Stay: Tobago
Bacolet Bay Beach Resort: Boutique hotel with oceanfront rooms and intimate atmosphere located on a secluded, private beach. Infinity pool, beach bar and excellent restaurant. Great amenities. Rental Car office on-site.Bacolet Bay, Scarborough; 639-2357; www.bacoletbeachclub.com
Blue Haven:Lushly landscaped resort with old-world Caribbean style. 55 rooms and 10 suites. All accommodations have been recently renovated with private balconies or patios. Close to town and beaches, Caribbean-style restaurant.
Bacolet Bay, Scarborough; 660-7400; www.bluehavenhotel.com
Coco Reef: 2006 Caribbean World Travel Award winner for Best Hotel in the Caribbean. Grand setting in lush gardens, close to the airport with private beach. 135 rooms and suites, decorated in pastels, island style. Full service spa and tennis courts.
Airport Road, Crown Point; 639-8571; www.cocoreef.com
Conrado: True beach experience as it is located on the beach at Pigeon Point with incredible waterfront vistas. On-site restaurant and bar. Breakfast included.
Pigeon Point Road, Pigeon Point; 639-0755; www.conradotobago.com
Where to Eat: Trinidad
Waterfront Restaurant: Casual, romantic dining overlooking the Bay of Paria with nightly entertainment. Sophisticated, light bites and Caribbean snacks in a lounge atmosphere. @ Hyatt Regency, #1 Wrightson Road, Port of Spain; 623-2222
Veni Mange: Exotic Caribbean and International cuisine serving lunch and dinner. Very crowded bar full of local color. Proprietors on-site are great hostesses. 67A Ariapita Ave. Woodbrook, Port of Spain; 624-4597; www.venimange.com
Apsara: Classic Indian cuisine in authentic environs. Good curries and roti.
13 Queen’s Park E, Belmont, Port of Spain; 627-7364; www.apsara.co.tt
Where to Eat: Tobago
Cafe Havana: Excellent Asian-Cuban cuisine with nightly specials, full bar and good music.@ Bacolet Bay Beach Resort, 72 Bacolet St., Bacolet Bay; 639-2357; www.cafehavana.org
Shutters on the Bay: Former stomping ground for Hollywood’s elite, recently undergone a complete restoration and serving classic island cuisine.
Located in the Colonial Style Villa @ Blue Haven Hotel, Bacolet Bay; 660-7400; www.bluehavenhotel.com
Jemma’s Seaview Kitchen: Creole-style food served seaside in an elaborate tree house. Very popular with tours but worth the 90 minute drive from Scarborough. Inexpensive. Main Rd., Speyside; 660-4066
Best Beach: Trinidad
Maracas Bay: Practically an institution and by far the most popular beach in Trinidad for locals and tourists with strong surf and off-white sand. This is the place to try the famous Bake and Shark. North Coast Road
Best Beach: Tobago
Pigeon Point: White sand bordering shallow, reef sheltered surf, no waves but great swimming. Watch out for coral. Services and watersports available for a price. Many restaurants and snack bars. Entrance fee. Pigeon Point Road
Must See: Trinidad
Temple in the Sea/ Waterloo Village: A full-range of sights providing a canvas for understanding Trinidad’s Hindu culture. Unsurpassed beauty unique to the island with stopover visits recommended to the Hanuman Murti statue and Indian Caribbean Museum.
Must See: Tobago
Buccoo Reef & Nylon Pool: The largest reef in Tobago with a natural shallow, swimming area in the middle of the ocean.
A boat ride from Pigeon Point, Store Bay or Buccoo.
Half-day and full-day trips are available.