Trondheim, Norway’s City of Contrasts

As I walk the streets of Trondheim, Norway’s third largest city, it doesn’t seem so “large.” Like many places in Norway, there’s an intimacy to the city with pockets of small town charm.  And of course, there are those omnipresent tales of Vikings and kings, of battles and bold heroics — and of adventures. It seems there’s not a town in Norway without some alluring tale of venturing forth to new places. Venture to Trondheim, and you’re in for some pleasant surprises.

Trondheim, which in Norse means, “home of the strong and fertile ones,” was founded in the 10^th century by Viking King Olav. Today it is a city of contrasts. There are busy streets filled with soaring atriums, shopping venues galore, galleries, cafes and more. It’s a university city as well, with one in six residents of university age, adding a palpable energy to the city. But venture not far from the frenetic main streets, and you’ll find yourself on cobblestone alleyways, amidst old timber buildings and storefronts that are a step back in time. When I visited it was so blustery that I felt as though I was being blown from sight to sight, hastened along the streets like Mary Poppins. So I took haven in the most peaceful of places — the Nidaros Cathedral.

Nidaros Cathedral combines both Gothic and Romanesque styles, inspired by the likes of Westminster and Lincoln Cathedrals (the latter where parts of The Da Vinci Code were filmed). In many ways, the cathedral seems the heart and soul of Trondheim, and to a degree, of Norway, too. It’s here that the country’s kings are crowned, that its princesses marry, and it’s also the resting place of Saint Olav, Norway’s patron saint. In fact, so key is this cathedral to the country’s heritage that when the Norwegian king was in exile during WWII and finally sailed back to his beloved Norway, he bestowed his ship’s flag on the Nidaros Cathedral. A second ship’s flag was presented to the cathedral by Allied forces when they reached Trondheim.

But Nidaros is more than just a church. It’s a museum complex and magnet for music lovers. There are daily organ concerts in summer, and on weekends for the remainder of the year, bellowed from one of the enormous baroque organs. In the adjacent buildings are housed the Archbishop’s Palace Museum, the Crown Jewels and armory exhibitions. While the former has interesting archaeological finds, it’s hard not to ooh and ah at the regalia on display among the Crown Jewels, its contents symbolizing a thousand years of Norwegian monarchy. There’s the mesmerizing royal crown used in coronations, swords, banners, scepters, orbs and more. Seeing all of this, I might add, made me feel quite the pauper.

Close to Nidaros, I cross Gamle Bybro, or “Old Town Bridge,” built in the 1600’s when a sentry stood guard at both ends. Now, no one even looks twice as I cross the span over the Nidelva River, which winds its way through Trondheim. The bridge is my gateway to Bakklandet, that charming cobblestoned area of wooden buildings that takes me back in time. This historic part of Trondheim, once occupied by seamen, traders and laborers, is beautiful and perfect for strolling about. I find myself browsing charming boutiques and ducking into quaint cafés. Nearby along the riverbank are also the city’s distinct wharfs. Some of the colorful 18^th and 19^th century buildings — former warehouses painted in hues of red, orange, yellow and ivory — now house shops, restaurants and cafes. They make for great photo ops with their reflections mirrored in the calm of the quiet river.

Popular with tourists visiting Trondheim is to embark on a boat trip (in spring and summer) along the Trondheim fjord to historical Munkholmen (Monk Island) in Trondheim’s harbor. It’s a little island with big stories. It was once a “prison island” with a fort and a monastery, but now droves of sunbathers bask along its old fortification walls, swim in the cool waters or enjoy the island’s café. Amateur theatrical performances also attract visitors.

For a more modern take on the city, sightseers can also head to the soaring Tyholt Tower — the second most visited attraction in Trondheim after the cathedral. The tower offers panoramic views of the city and surroundings, though the views on my visit remained blurred as the blustery conditions persisted. So, I headed to the sanctuary of one of the city’s newer attractions, Rockheim, a national museum dedicated to rock and pop music. To say that this is an exciting interactive museum is an understatement; it’s an enthralling rock around the clock.

On one floor there are rooms dedicated to rock and pop in the decades beginning with the 50’s. I play a jukebox in the 50’s room, which cues a reel of dynamic films related to that era. The 60’s room features dreamy-like surroundings and some of Norway’s first rock bands. The 70’s enable me to virtually join a band’s tour bus — and on go the eras as music progresses and morphs through the many exhibits. Suffice it to say that I could have spent an entertaining few hours here thinking that I was a rock star (instead of a Viking).

For far less rocking, an alternative is Trondheim’s Ringve Musikk Museum, which displays some 2,000 historical instruments from around the globe including many traditional Norwegian instruments used on mountain farms, in hunting and in ceremonies. The museum, which is a short bus ride from the city center, is set in a former country estate resplendent with botanical gardens. During the summer months, there are live demonstrations with some of the antique instruments. Compared to Rockheim, this musical museum once again illustrates the contrasts found in the captivating city of Trondheim.

After my fill of touring, I set aside my thoughts of Vikings, kings and rock stars and consider the natural environs surrounding Trondheim, which will likely bestow me with everything I need to put a close to discovering everything the region has to offer. I ponder whether to take a hiking safari along the fjords in search of musk ox, red deer and eagles. Or am I ambitious enough to try scaling one of the great rock faces in the region? (The answer:  No.) Perhaps salmon and trout fishing would be more relaxing or leisurely paddling a kayak around the many isles dotting the watery landscape.

The options between city and country abound and are varied, like the city itself. The Trondheim region is filled with contrasts — from the Middles Ages to a modern beat, the pulse of city streets or the allure of nature’s treats. Certainly, it’s one of Norway’s gems.