Virginia’s Hunt & Wine Country

Virginia’s Hunt & Wine Country is just an hour outside of Washington, D.C., though it feels a million miles away from the Beltway’s hustle. The pastoral landscape of Loudoun and Fauquier Counties is defined by rolling hills, stately horse farms and picturesque vineyards. The area is home to numerous small towns and villages, each with their own distinct character, with quaint and charming being the unifying factors. If you’re curious about Virginia’s up-and-coming wine scene and venerable equestrian traditions, this scenic swath of the state is well worth exploring.

The Wine

Viticulture has deep roots in Virginia. The Jamestown colonists made barely-drinkable wine as far back as 1607. Thomas Jefferson planted grapevines at his beloved Monticello in hopes of producing wine that would stand up to those he enjoyed drinking in France. He never managed to reach his goal, though it’s safe to assume he’d be proud of the quality of wine being produced in Virginia today.

With nearly 300 wineries, Bacchus would approve. Many are family-owned, giving visitors the opportunity to chat with the winemaker as they sip and sample.

Thriving grapes include the thin-skinned Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Chardonnay. Viognier, full-bodied and characterized by a perfume of stone fruit and fresh flowers, is garnering attention way beyond the state border.

Slater Run Vineyards

Slater Run Vineyards is 100% solar-powered with a strong commitment to additional environmentally friendly vineyard management practices. Located on a hilltop in Upperville with the Blue Ridge Mountains as a backdrop, the land has been farmed by ancestors of the Slater family for over 300 years.

It remains a family affair; Kiernan Slater and Chris Patusky run the winery with help from Kiernan’s father Bob, mother Alice and their teenage children. Having grown up here, Bob Slater uses his Farmers’ Almanac-style wisdom and deep knowledge of every nook and cranny of the land to bolster soil health. The family is present in both the vineyards and the tasting room.

They are continuing the Slater family’s agricultural legacy with the help of winemaker Katell Griaud, who they’ve imported from France. She makes wines in a classic dry French style using estate-grown grapes. The wines I tasted were uniformly balanced and delicious. The 2017 Chardonnay, aged in French oak and stainless steel, was crisp and round with notes of tropical fruits. If you like butter bombs, it’s not for you, but if you’re an ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) like me, you too may be pleasantly surprised.

Roots 2015 is a Bordeaux blend aged for 16 months in French Burgundy barrels. Notes of black pepper on the nose and tart cherry on the palate made for lively and delightful drinking.

Barrel Oak Winery

Barrel Oak Winery in Delaplane exudes coziness, with indoor seating by the blazing fire and outdoor seating on the sun-dappled patio.

The winery welcomes both man and dog. It’s so dog friendly you might feel a little left out if you arrive sans pooch. Never fear, owners Sharon Roeder and Brian Roeder’s own dogs are as friendly as they are fluffy, so temporarily adopt one as your own while you taste their award-winning wines.

I enjoyed the 2015 Petit Verdot, fermented in open-topped containers with a variety of yeasts to highlight various aspects of flavor and aromatics. I liked its burgundy hue, notes of black fruit, solid tannins and long, smooth finish.

The 2017 Albarino is fermented and aged in stainless steel. The golden color, aroma of peaches and balanced acidity scream summer sipping wine.

They are brewing some good beer at their onsite tap house, including a crisp Kolsch and Baltic Porter, a full-bodied lager with notes of caramel.

Numerous food trucks park at Barrel Oak, so no one will leave hungry.

The Food

The food and beverage scenes have cross-pollinated. There are dozens of eateries serving locally grown food paired with Virginia wines but Field & Main is the dining spot not to miss. Located in a centuries-old building on Marshall’s Main Street, owner Neal Wavra and Chef Anthony Nelson are committed to serving a farm-to-plate menu. You can taste the time and energy they’ve spent building relationships with local growers, producers and purveyors in every bite. Order anything that has been roasted over the colonial-style open hearth, including cauliflower, juicy beef and whole rockfish, for a flavorful lesson in the joys of this simple, time-tested cooking method. They frequently host seminar-style wine dinners with top international winemakers leading the discussion.

Red Truck Bakery is located across the street. Salted caramel apple, bourbon pecan and traditional mincemeat are a few of the mouth-watering pies for sale. Biscuits so light they might as well levitate off the plate and buttery scones are irresistible.

The Hunt

Great Meadow is a 373-acre equestrian event park located in the heart of horse country. There’s a steeplechase course and very popular twilight polo matches. If you’re new to polo, this is an excellent place to get acquainted with the game. Guests bring chairs or blankets and sit on the lush lawn, where they may picnic and purchase beverages from nearby wineries. After the final polo match, enjoy dancing in the pavilion. Expect a convivial feel and great people watching.

Small-Town Charm

Middleburg is a quaint hamlet that combines Southern hospitality with natural beauty. It has long been the epicenter of fox hunting and steeplechase, attracting illustrious visitors like President John F. Kennedy and his equestrian wife, Jackie. Allow time for a leisurely stroll and checkout the art at the Byrne Gallery, get caffeinated at Common Grounds or purchase jodhpurs at Middleburg Tack Exchange.

Warrenton’s downtown looks straight out of Mayberry. Its tidy streets are a jumble of family-owned boutiques, galleries and restaurants. For the conscious consumer, Latitudes sells fair trade goods sourced from around the world. The Open Book is a spacious bookstore with a full schedule of readings and literary events. With the other branch of Red Truck Bakery located here, this is not the day to count calories.

A Romantic Inn

Numerous small inns are clustered in Hunt & Wine Country but none are better than Goodstone Inn. This rambling 265-acre estate in Middleburg is a fairytale of colorful gardens, soothing fountains and shady trees. With only 18 luxurious guest accommodations, expect highly personalized service. Each suite is individually appointed, private and romantic. Fresh air options include an outdoor pool, a three-mile hiking trail and canoeing along Goose Creek.

A luscious breakfast is included though you’d be wise to dine here in the evening as well. Belgian-born Chef Jan Van Haute spins magic onto every plate at the Conservatory Restaurant. He makes good use of the onsite gardens, weaving just-snipped herbs and freshly harvested produce into his tasting menu.