In Texas—the land of superlatives as the biggest and the best—Fredericksburg’s ten-gallon-hat-sized combo of German culture and Texan hospitality makes this town a standout among “deep-in-the-heart” destinations.
A Little backstory . . .
If you’re familiar with the saying, “You can take the girl out of Texas, but you can’t take Texas out of the girl”—well, I’m that girl.
However, despite a personal affinity for my beloved birthplace, I’m familiar with only a few of its 1,200-plus cities and towns.
Among those I hadn’t visited is one situated smack-dab-in-the-middle of the Lone Star’s State’s Hill Country. Allow me to introduce you to Fredericksburg, a township that I’ve heard about for years, but only recently met.
Fredericksburg’s DNA
With an original population of Native Americans, Hispanics and German immigrants (its 1846 founders), reminders of this multi-prone heritage appear everywhere—from the bygone buildings lining Main Street (the town’s ‘main’ thoroughfare) and diverse collection of museums, art galleries and boutiques to authentic biergartens and eateries reflective of the region’s Deutschland roots and homestyle cooking.
Let’s Eat!
Whether bratwurst or brew, I found it here. While just a small sampling, what follows is an abbreviated roadmap to the flavor of Fredericksburg.
At the top of the town’s “food chain” is The Wellhouse at the Albert Hotel—known for its culinary program led by executive chef Michael Behan. A seasoned culinary leader with almost a quarter of a century of experience in the fine-dining world, Behan’s gastronomic vocation began as a graduate of Chicago’s Le Cordon Bleu.
Tip: Don’t miss the banana pudding at the hotel’s more casual Junebug’s BBQ, accompanied by a selection of smoked meats, of course.
Inspired by Texas wines paired with southern staples, Hill & Vine’s tasty offerings are creatively prepared with Chef’s own twist—along the lines of black-eyed pea hummus, chicken schnitzel, sweet cornbread, croissant bread pudding and roadside fried pies. You’ll know you’ve arrived by the restaurant’s Nine Commandments posted at its entrance. Among these clever “suggestions”: “NO reservations unless you’re George Strait” and “Wait times are estimates, not prophecies.”
Though its origins date back to 1928 when it began as a road stand showcasing its peach farm products, Das Peach Haus—ensconced within a grove of pine trees—remains at this original location. Here, among its 70 award-winning commodities, are jams, jellies, sauces and more (including a James Beard Best New Product recipient). Whether it’s hands-on or chef-led, the cooking classes on offer range from rustic Italian and savory brunch to Southern classics.
The Restaurant at Hill Country Herb Garden serves chef-curated fare complemented by garden-inspired craft cocktails, sake, wines and beer. Friday and Saturdays are designated Steak Night.
Tip: Night or day, don’t miss the sweet potato waffle fries and fried green tomato caprese if on the menu.
Described as farm-to-table German cuisine in Texas Hill Country, Otto’s German Bistro is known for its Deutschland-inspired specialties including pretzel with smoked gouda beer cheese, sauerkraut balls, duck schnitzel, chicken paprikash and pierogies.
Cheers! Yes, Vino!
Gillespie County, home to Fredericksburg, is also home to more than 75 wineries, vineyards and tasting rooms. The area’s wine production dates back to its original settlers who began this love affair with vino using the mustang grape—a native wild, thick-skinned berry. And this region’s multitude of venues appeals to the mood of any wine lover.
In town, Pontotoc Vineyard Weingarten can be found on Main Street. Owned by a fifth-generation Texas farming family, its entrance is a bit hidden, but once within its stone-walled courtyard, wines are complemented by German nibbles, pimento cheese sandwiches (wildly popular), even picnic baskets and a sangria that receives universal kudos.
Among the county’s most recent additions is Prochnow Vineyard at Crabapple Creek. Located on 46 acres of an active cattle ranch with 14 acres of vines, owners Ross and Valerie Prochnow are as welcoming as if they were greeting best friends into their cozy home.
Tip: Select a glass of Sangiovese Rosé, grab a spot on the spacious wrap-around porch and enjoy a sip and sunset.
The Museum Scene
In the museum world, the question in Fredericksburg is “Which one?” Home of the Smithsonian-affiliated exhibition, the National Museum of the Pacific War, this gallery sits along Main Street. Dedicated to native son Admiral Chester W. Nimitz, World War II commander of the U.S. Pacific Fleet, it’s appropriately located in the small house of his birth—now the centerpiece of the collection.
Nearby, 10 historic structures—all reflective of the town’s original German settlers and stretching back for more than 170 years—comprise the 3.5-acre Pioneer Museum and provide an authentic look into the past.
Tip: To best see the town and learn a bit of its history, hop on one of the red-and-green vintage style trolleys seen driving through town for a Fredericksburg Tour. With historian, author and trolley driver David Schafer at the wheel, you’re in for an informative treat.
Good Night!
While Fredericksburg is not a big hub for major U.S. hotel brands, the town of approximately 12,000 offers instead a selection of atypical choices. Among them are Onera (a secluded forest treehouse resort situated a short distance from town), HoneyTree (another treehouse-like lodging choice comprises a cluster of hillside-perched cabins) and my “home” for the stay, The Gathering. Beneath the shadows of mature trees, the six self-contained guesthouses are a combo of rustic charm and modern amenities.
Tip: Let’s just say my choice, The Barn, “had me at hello”—a porch with a swing and a duo of rocking chairs.
Day Trip to Luckenback, Texas
Located 13 miles from Fredericksburg is a place “Where everybody’s somebody.” Made famous by the Willie Nelson/Waylon Jennings eponymous song, “Luckenbach, Texas,” every day it’s possible to travel from Fredericksburg, grab a Shiner Bock beer from longtime bartender Vince, park yourself on a bench beneath the shade of stage-fronted trees and toe-tap to live music—in an ambiance changed little since its establishment in 1849 as a trading post for pioneering families and Comanche Indians.
An Enchanted Evening (or Morning)
A massive pink granite dome named Enchanted Rock is the state’s oldest exposed promontory. As a designated state natural area, it’s where you can stargaze after dark (factoid: Fredericksburg is an International Dark Sky Community) and hike after sunrise. At 400-plus feet of elevation, the 1.3 mile in/back trail to the summit offers a moderately challenging way to begin the day. And once accomplished, the reward is a 360-degree peak-top view.
“Bless Your Heart”
While the Southern-rooted phrase is sometimes considered pejorative, as a Texan, my heart was blessed with an introduction to this hospitable hamlet of a town tucked into the state’s center and soul. Void of big city trappings, Fredericksburg is defined by lower-key attributes—front porches, historic plaques and small-town values. Ahh, I’m home.
