Yan Toh Heen, Hong Kong

Michelin-stars are all well and good, but some restaurants go beyond approval from the French. Steeped in history, Yan Toh Heen at the InterContinental Hong Kong, formerly the renowned Regent, has decades of glory to look back on as an unrivaled epitome of luxurious Cantonese cuisine. Recently renovated top to bottom, the restaurant reflects a contemporary sophistication that ties back to its storied past. Past the stunning black marble pond where the establishment’s logo is reflected in the water, one beholds the glorious harbor view. Prominent among the stunning setting are symbols depicting Chinese history and loads of jade, a symbol of purity in Chinese culture. Much of it has been retained from the original décor and restructured elegantly into a thematic jade wall at the entrance, as well as charming jade tableware, the restaurant’s mainstay.

Executive Chef Lau Yiu Fai, at the helm of Yan Toh Heen for 14 years, serves up exemplary Cantonese cuisine that is also surprisingly modern with its twists, presentation styles, and use of ingredients. At the heart of Cantonese cuisine is dim sum, and Yan Toh Heen does it well. There were several menu options when we went for lunch, including extravagant set menus with wine pairings that are highly recommended, but we opted to pick some favorites off the menu.

Dim sum highlights include steamed pork and prawn dumplings with crabmeat roe, and a trio of assorted dumplings that includes steamed garoupa with shrimp roe and peppercorns, steamed scallop with an intriguing topping of bird’s nest and a decorative gold leaf, and steamed king crab leg with green vegetables. Accompanying the dumplings is a selection of Yan Toh Heen condiments and dips, including a range of light to heavy seasoned soy sauces, a traditional Chinese XO sauce, and chili. The dim sum pastry is light and fluffy, yet the ingredients are appropriately strong in their texture and flavor.

For more small dishes to share, there are a couple of must-order items. The wok-fried Wagyu beef with green peppers, along with the seasonal wok-seared cod fish with your choice of local vegetables are standouts, with the wagyu beef retaining its texture and taste while melding beautifully with its East-Asian heavy flavors, whereas the fish is soft and succulent and complemented well with local green produce.

For dessert, chilled mango cream with sago and pomelo is a common sight, not only at the restaurant but also found readily on the streets of Hong Kong. The twist at Yan Toh Heen is the way it’s presented, with dry ice used to create a theatrical presentation that lingers long after the lid has been removed. The proverbial icing on the cake, the basil dragon pearl, no less visually stunning, exhibits ginger ice cream floating on a bed of ginger panna cotta and pearls. The rich and creamy panna cotta and pearls are refreshingly contrasted by the sharp freshness of the ginger ice cream to end a delightful meal.

The restaurant has garnered a Michelin star for several years running now. However, its legacy in Chinese and Cantonese cuisine extends beyond that, as proven by the hordes of diners who not only rave about Executive Chef Lau’s dazzling traditional creations that have managed to stay modern but also by those who say little, but continue to patronize this fine establishment year after year, decade after decade.

Note from the author:

For other fantastic dim sum haunts in the city, check out Hong Kong’s Dim Sum Culture:  www.travelsquire.com/hong-kongs-dim-sum-culture/