The Island Beyond the Beach
Zanzibar is officially part of Tanzania, but it’s always been different. A small island off the coast of East Africa, it has a history straight out of 1001 Arabian Nights, more Sinbad than Swahili. While most of Africa was carved up by Imperial European powers in the nineteenth century, Zanzibar was absorbed by a quite different culture – Omani sultans ruled an empire that stretched from here to the Arabian peninsular, their great trading dhows ferrying spices, gold and slaves between the continents. Zanzibar was the jewel in the crown, and for a while the Sultans of Zanzibar ruled the whole empire. Today the sultans are long gone and Zanzibar is African again, but it retains much of its Arabic culture, notably its’ Islamic faith, exotic, spicy food and exuberant architecture. The dhows are still around, but tourism brings in the gold these days.
For most tourists, Zanzibar means lounging on admittedly fabulous beaches, but there are a handful of alluring attractions that merit a few days away from the sand. You’ll find plenty of tour companies in Stone Town (and at most hotels), but it’s easy, cheaper and more convenient (and safe) to negotiate day-rates with local taxi drivers.
Stone Town
Stone Town is the old capital of Zanzibar, a warren of narrow, twisting lanes, mosques and palaces. It’s a confusing but incredibly evocative place, barely changed since the nineteenth century. There are few concessions to tourists here – this is a working town, and the smattering of boutique hotels and designer shops remain low key and unobtrusive.
Like many historic, undeveloped cities Stone Town is atmospheric but also messy, and garbage strewn; it’s crammed with gorgeous Arabic architecture, but much of it is in a state of elegant decay; and its streets are full of life, markets and a culturally diverse mix of peoples from the rim of Indian Ocean, yet it’s also incredibly poor.
Don’t be put off – Stone Town is safe to explore (though you need to take care at night), and even the famous papasi (or “ticks”), local hustlers that hassle tourists at almost every corner, selling their services as tour guides – are irritating more than dangerous. Delve into the old bazaars and alleys to really appreciate the city. Women wear Muslim veils or multi-colored Swahili dresses, while the men get on with trading, sipping coffee or lounging on the steps.
Stone Town’s most enchanting sight is the House of Wonders, an ornate, mostly wooden Omani palace dating from the late 1800s. Inside there are dusty but absorbing exhibits on the history of the island and the multi-cultural dynasties that ruled it. Don’t miss the small display on Princess Salme. Her mother was one of the scores of concubines in the sultan’s harem, but she was well educated and apparently loved her father. Salme ended up falling in love with a German merchant, got pregnant and managed to run away with him – a big scandal in the 1860s. Living in Hamburg, she decided to write down her memoirs, an impressive and unique record of the time. Her book “Memoirs of an Arabian Princess from Zanzibar” is on sale at the sleepy old “library” on the top of the palace (which has fantastic views of Stone Town and its’ old fort).
To delve into the darker side of Zanzibar history, head over to the old slave market. All that’s left of the market are the tiny, horrible little cells where slaves were kept before being sold. The cells had low ceilings, two tiny, narrow slits for windows and a sort of channel in the middle, for use as a toilet; the incoming tide would sweep in and wash away all the sewage a couple of times a day. A single chain shows how the slaves would have been tied together. The market itself was replaced with a coral and lime Anglican cathedral built after slavery’s abolition in the 1870s – the old whipping post is marked by a marble spot at the altar. This is where slaves were whipped to see how “strong” they were, before fetching a better price.
After a day spent meandering through the sweaty streets of Stone Town, stop at the harbor-side restaurant called Mercury’s – named after Queen’s lead vocalist. Mercury (originally Farrokh Bulsara), was actually born in Zanzibar (he moved to England when he was a child). Enjoy a meal of fish in coconut sauce or roast chicken with chapatis, and watch the sun sink into the Indian Ocean.
The monkeys of Jozani Forest
The Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park is easy to visit from Stone Town or the beaches, with the tangled jungle of Jozani Forest at its heart. The Red Colobus monkeys here are some of the cutest you’ll ever see in the wild – non-aggressive and playful, with vivid red backs and plenty of feisty youngsters tumbling through the branches. Park guides accompany you into the forest, but there are couple of troupes that like to hang out near the visitor centre, so you won’t have to walk far. These monkeys are very curious, and will scamper and jump around just above your head. Just remember one thing though, when a monkey has to go, it has to go: that “dripping” from the branches is not rain.
Changuu Island
Changuu is a tiny coral island just off Zanzibar, surrounded by reef and picture-prefect turquoise waters. In the 1890s the authorities built a prison here, but it ended up as a quarantine station for foreigners arriving by ship and infected with disease.
These days the remaining buildings make up a rather isolated hotel, but the island is most famous for its giant tortoises, sent here from the Seychelles as a gift in 1919. They are kept inside a large, muddy enclosure but the rules are fairly relaxed – it’s more like an open wildlife park than zoo, and visitors are free to feed and touch the giant creatures. Though endangered in the wild, they number around 100 here. The oldest tortoises are absolutely huge – they mostly seem to sit still, or crawl forwards very, very slowly, like a sort of dopey dinosaur. Their shells feel like iron, incredibly hard, while their skins are leathery and extremely tough (it’s OK to stroke them). They love munching spinach – when they eat they actually extend their legs and necks to peck like a baby eagle, sharp beak, long tongue and razor-like teeth tearing the leaves.
The other main activity here is snorkeling off the bone-white beach near the boat dock. Be prepared for plenty of coral and tropical fish, but also (depending on the time of year and the tides) some bizarre sights just off shore. If you spy large, black shadows appearing to move with the tide, check them out; most likely this is not seaweed, coral or rocks. To get closer you need to get underwater with goggles or a snorkel. Incredibly, these black shadows are actually massive, dense schools of sardines, thrashing around in circles just beneath the waves, sheltering in the warm, sun-rich waters. They are not big, a few inches perhaps, but swim into the cloud and you’ll be surrounded by great masses of swirling fish, making great circles of flashing silver, a mesmerizing experience.
Nungwi and the turtles
Nungwi is one of those unfortunate villages that happens to be squashed between two beach resorts at the northern tip of the island (oddly enough, these resorts seem to cater to mainly Italian tourists). As is often the case, the village has remained poor and largely segregated from the beach areas – very few locals are hired to work in the hotels and they make their living from traditional trades.
To get a personal insight into real life on Zanzibar, get a tour of the village from one of the locals working at the Nungwi Turtle Aquarium. The aquarium is basically a large saltwater lagoon, hemmed in by coral and refreshed with water every high tide. There are currently fifteen Green Turtles paddling around here, some of them truly enormous. All were caught by fisherman by mistake and were brought here to convalesce. Eventually they are released back into the ocean. It’s a great initiative, established by locals who realized that killing turtles that got caught in their nets was a huge waste.
Younger turtles are protected in two small, covered ponds – you are able hold one of these smaller ones (after washing your hands), an eye-opening experience as they feel like iron bricks (it takes several men to lift an adult). The real babies – just 20 days old, and saved from disturbed nest sites – zip around in another pool, their flippers far bigger than their tiny shells.
The Nungwi villagers are a friendly, happy bunch, though very poor; there are no tarred roads, just muddy tracks. Their houses are small, simple affairs made of coral bricks or breeze blocks with corrugated iron roofs and plenty of chickens shuffling around behind.
They have electricity but no running water – water comes through standpipes in the street, but the supply is erratic. When the water is on, women carrying multiple buckets line up to get as much as they can. Given the lack of resources, it’s incredible how they manage to look so beautifully turned out. All the women (and this is a Muslim village) wear bright, vivid dresses and headscarves from puberty, and only the (very cute) younger kids run around in basic T-shirts and shorts.
The village keeps busy. Nungwi is known for its shipbuilders, who hammer and carve wood round the clock making dhows (traditional fishing boats). According to the locals, they cost six million Tanzanian shillings ($5,000 US) and take 40 days to build!
Fishermen sell their catch at the fish market, often just a simple gathering under a tree where piles of sardines, trumpet fish and dorado are auctioned off to the highest bidders. The only other stalls sell greenish oranges (very sweet!), cassava and roast corn on the cob, as well as small amounts of tamarind, wild garlic and ginger. Remember, when you visit a local village, wear proper clothes so as not offend (leave your swim suit behind). Make a donation to the local school before you head back, and you’ll feel a lot better sipping those cocktails later on.
Where to Stay:
Country Code for Tanzania is (255)
Pongwe Beach Hotel – Zanzibar has plenty of beach hotels, but this is the connoisseurs choice, with a collection of comfy chalets right on a mesmerizing strip beach. Book ahead. P.O. Box 297, Pongwe; (255) 784-336-181 or (255) 773-169-906 (after 7pm); www.pongwe.com
Warere Town House – Excellent budget option, with spotless, renovated en-suite rooms, high four-poster beds (with mozzi nets), TV, fan and period furniture. (255) 242-233-835 (no website).
Zanzibar Coffee House – Just eight luxurious rooms set in an Arabian-style mansion built in 1885, with a fabulous roof-top lounge and balcony. Mkunazini 1563/64, Stone Town; (255) 242-239-319; www.riftvalley-zanzibar.com.
Zanzibar Palace Hotel – The pick of Stone Town’s mid-range boutique hotels, set in a lovely traditional house and offering fabulous breakfasts and dinners. Rooms come in a range of sizes, but all are en-suite and decked out with bright, traditional furnishings and four-poster beds. Kiponda Street #831, Stone Town, Zanzibar; (255) 242-232-230; www.zanzibarpalacehotel.com.
Restaurants and Nightlife
The Livingstone– Lively pub favoured by wealthy locals as well as expats and travellers, right on the beach. The atmospheric building was once the British Consulate and was where David Livingstone’s body was laid out in 1874 before being taken back to London. Great bar food and a big drinks menu. Kenyatta Rd (north end, on the waterfront), Stone Town. (255) 773-164-939.
Mercury’s – Hard to believe, but Freddie Mercury was actually born in Zanzibar. This friendly bar honours his memory, but it’s more a tranquil place for a sunset drink and seafood dinner, overlooking the harbour and Indian Ocean. Mizingani Rd, Stone Town. (255) 242-233-076.
Monsoon Restaurant – Romantic, top-notch restaurant serving a fusion of Africa, Arabian and Western dishes with plenty of fresh fruits and exotic spices. Eat outdoors under the palm trees or in the cushion-laid interior (shoes off). Forodhani Gardens, Stone Town; (255) 777-410-410. www.monsoon-zanzibar.com.
Passing Show Hotel – Best place to eat like a local in Stone Town, with hearty plates of chicken, biriani, rice and fish with cashew nuts for a handful of dollars – it’s all very cheap and very clean. Malawi Rd, Malindi, Stone Town.
Stone Town Café – Mixture of Western and local food, with excellent coffee, cakes and sticky date pudding. Best for breakfast or a snack. Kenyatta Rd, Stone Town.
Zanzibar Coffee House – Favorite hang out for travelers, with quality coffee supplied from the Utengele Coffee Estate roasted at the back. It’s a great place for a snack and the rooftop provides stunning views of the Old Town. Mkunazini 1563/64, Stone Town; (255) 242-239-319
What to Do/Must See:
House of Wonders (National Museum) – Waterfront, Old Town; daily 9am–6pm; $3;
The Slave Market – daily 9am–6pm; $3.
Jozani Forest – daily 7.30am–5pm; $8.