Corsica is a large, oval-shaped French island in the western Mediterranean. Its jagged granite spine rises from the blue sea about 100 miles southeast of Nice, but centuries of geographic isolation have allowed Corsica to develop a distinct culture. For the traveler this lends to the island a more exotic feel than mainland France.
About 300,000 people inhabit the island, which is bigger than the state of Delaware. They enjoy old coastal cities, rural inland villages, wild mountain ranges, stunning beaches, and a Mediterranean climate of hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters. The island is a hiker’s paradise: geologic upheavals in the Mesozoic Era formed the island, and about half the land area lies within the Parc Natural Regional de Corse. Elevations range from sea level to 9,000 feet, and the biodiversity is impressive. There are 3,000 plant species, 131 of which are endemic to Corsica. The maquis, or scrub brush, infuses the air with an intoxicating fragrance, especially after rain, and twisted old-growth oaks, olive trees, and palm trees shade weary trekkers. While mainland France suffers from a striking lack of wildlife, this is not the case in Corsica. Kites, golden eagles, and the Corsican nuthatch ride thermals and wings through the maquis. Colorful Corsican salamanders and packs of wild hogs prowl the forests. Snorkelers and fishermen will find varied marine life, but like elsewhere in the Mediterranean, fish stocks are in decline.
In “Granite Island,” Dorothy Carrington’s classic account of Corsican travel, the British author declared that Corsica is “richer in human material than any other commodity.” Take for example, Toni Rossi. Rossi was a 1940s Corsican crooner who, decades after his death, remains a source of pride for islanders. His neatly parted, slicked black hair and polka-dotted ascots made war-weary French women weak in the knees. But Corsica’s most famous son is Napoleon. He was born in Ajaccio in 1769 and his childhood home is now a museum. (Highlights include trompe l’oeil paintings and the emperor’s tiny childhood bed.)
Corsicans are brusque. Like other islanders they are a tight-knit group, and many openly resent continental France. They are a famously political people, and like the ETA Basques in the Pyrenees, pockets of Corsicans support the separatist group Front de la Liberation Nationale de la Corse. It is not uncommon to walk into a bar and see hanging on a wall above gruff Pastis-drinking men, an idealized painting of a machine-gun wielding masked crusader on horseback. To the visitor such a sight can be unsettling. The mafia, too, has a forceful underground hand in the economic and political life of Corsica. At Ajaccio’s port the seediness is palpable.
But the only guns you’re likely to see will be in autumn in the hands of friendly rural hunters. Hunting in Corsica is a national event – men and their dogs fan out through the forest and the maquis, fixing to bag a wild hog. Successful parties drag the animals into the back of their pick-up trucks, bleed their carcasses in the woods, dress them with wood-handled Opinel knives, and fill their freezers with fresh meat. (Wild hog meat goes well paired with a glass of spicy Corsican red wine!)
Despite fine regional meals, the island’s economy is relatively weak. The per-capita GDP is about $27,000, or 10 percent below the national average. Travelers will notice some olive trees, chestnut trees, and vineyards but generally the land is agriculturally unproductive, with steep slopes and poor soil. Many young people emigrate from the island to the mainland looking for work. Some spend their whole careers in cities like Marseilles, only to return to Corsica in retirement. Those who stay usually participate in the service-based economy. Cities are packed with hotels, restaurants, and retail stores, which, in a nod to their Mediterranean roots, keep Mediterranean hours: usually 8 a.m. until noon, then 4 p.m. to 8 p.m.
The largest city is the capital, Ajaccio. It has a population of 65,000 on the central west coast. It is the island’s business and political hub and a good jumping-off point to other locales. Together with Bastia, population 43,000, on the northeast coast, these two cities constitute one third of the island’s total population. Bastia features pleasant, wide promenades; a vibrant student population; an arthouse movie theater; and frequent ferries to Italy. Porto Vecchio, on the southeast coast, is a fashionable destination with luxury stores and close proximity to some of the island’s most enchanting beaches – including the famous Palombaggia Beach. But for the traveler, Porto Vecchio’s jet-set reputation exceeds its reality. Bonifacio is Corsica’s touristic gem. The fortified small coastal city is perched atop limestone cliffs at the island’s southernmost point. The sunset views of Sardinia may be the money shot in all of France. Narrow stone streets, easily accessible coastal hiking trails, and wild, secluded beaches make Bonifacio alone well worth a trip to Corsica.
Depending on the season, regular ferries link mainland cities, like Nice, Toulon, and Marseilles, to most major coastal Corsican cities. From Bastia on the east coast, ferries travel to Italy. Depending on your route, crossings take anywhere from three to seven hours. Airports are located in Calvi, Ajaccio, Bastia, and northwest of Bonifacio, and most offer regular direct flights to Nice and Paris. If you want to rent a car be prepared to drive stick shift on windy two-lane mountain roads. The bus system is good. Private operators have small, comfortable buses that run on reliable schedules. The Web site www.corsicabus.org is a good resource. A slow but pretty train system links Ajaccio with two cities in the north – Calvi and Bastia. Bike rentals are available in some cities, and Corsica offers some of the most challenging and spectacular hiking trails in Europe.
Because of Corsica’s location in the Mediterranean – a body of water that cradled western civilization – the island has a history spanning a millennium. The first inhabitants arrived on the island around 3,000 B.C. Both the Greeks and Romans had colonized Corsica, and eventually it was ruled by a procession of Mediterranean kingdoms. Genoa gained undisputed control around 1500 but by 1796 the island was under French rule. While the modern-day independent movement is unlikely to translate into real political change, Corsica’s geographic isolation and fierce native pride will ensure that as regional identity fades in other parts of Europe, Corsica will continue to defend its salty spirit.
Country code for Corsica is 33.
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Where to stay
Le Royal– Nestled in Bonifacio, its affordable rates (from 50 Euros a night) and convenient location at the heart of the Haute Ville, makes this charming hotel a great place to experience the local atmosphere and yet still feel right at home. Located at: 8 rue Fred Scamaroni, 20169 Bonifacio, Corsica, France. Tél: 04 95 73 00 51. www.hotel-leroyal.com/hotel-bonifacio-en.html
Grand Hotel de Cala Rossa – This Relais & Chateau property is situated on one of the most beautiful beaches in Porto Vecchio. Owner Toussaint Canarelli ensures that guests achieve maximum relaxation potential with a combination of impeccable service, luxurious spa facilities, and an award-winning restaurant. Simple and stylish, this is Corsica at its most decadent. 20137 Porto Vecchio. Tel: 04 95 71 61 51. www.cala-rossa.com
La Signoria – An 18th century Genoese estate has been reinvented as a sophisticated 28-room hotel in the northwestern city of Calvi. The beautifully manicured, enchanting grounds frame romantic mountain views. A shuttle whisks guests to a private beach. Five stars. Child-friendly. Route de la foret Bonifato, 20260 Calvi. Tel: 04 95 65 93 00. www.hotel-la-signoria.com.
Scattered across rural Corsica is a network of bed-and-breakfasts, or gite d’etapes. These lodgings can run the gamut, from hostel-like dorms to old-world mansions that for centuries have been pressing their own olive oil. It’s a good way to find generally inexpensive rooms and tap into the social life of some of the more standoffish villages.
Where to eat
La Caravelle– is perhaps the best wine bar in the world. Situated within a vaulted centuries-old stone room, warmed by a roaring hearth, you’ll be served fine French and Corsican wines with dried meat hanging from the ceiling. For something sweet, they also have excellent chocolate fondant desert. Quai Comparetti- 20169 Bonifacio, Corsica France. Tel: 04 95 73 00 03. www.hotelrestaurant-lacaravelle-bonifacio.com/site.html
Le Don Quichotte is an exquisite Spanish restaurant tucked in an alley within Ajaccio. With fresh ingredients and a menu that changes daily, prepare yourself for some of the most exciting dishes you’ll find anywhere else. Rue des Halles, 20000 Ajaccio, Corsica, France. Tel: 04 95 21 27 30. www.tripadvisor.ie/Restaurant_Review-g187140-d1329104-Reviews-Restaurant_Don_Quichotte-Ajaccio_Corsica.html
Restaurant U Corsu serves Corsican seafood in a friendly, no-frills environment. Situated near the waterfront: for all your viewing pleasure and delight. Dinner for two should set you back about 40 Euros. 2 Rue Pecheurs, 20110 Propriano, France. www.travel-avenue.com/7602313-restaurant-u-corsu-propriano.html
What to see and do
Visit Napoleon’s birthplace. Located in downtown Ajaccio the French emperor and military leader began his illustrious life as a precocious child in a four-story building. Highlights at the National Museum of the Bonaparte Residence include the bed where Napoleon was born and even a lock of the leader’s hair. Displays trace the family’s rise to nobility, and brightly painted plaster walls in the living quarters evoke centuries’ past. A visit can easily be squeezed in to a day of Ajaccio sightseeing.
Go for a swim at famed Palombaggia Beach. This iconic crescent stretch of sand is located about 15 miles from Porto Vecchio. A scattering of bars and casual restaurants are located so close to the salt water that you’ll still be dropping wet when you order your cold can of Pietra Corsican beer.
Corsica is one of the most popular hiking destinations in Europe. The GR 20 is the most famous route, and it takes about two weeks of trekking through rugged interior mountains to complete the south-north trail. An easier option is the Mer-a-Mer Sud trail, which essentially links Ajaccio with Porto Vecchio.
Dorothy Carrington was a British travel writer who spent much of her life exploring the land and people of Corsica. Her account of those travels, “Granite Island,” was recently republished, and even for the locals it is regarded as a reference book. Read it for a fuller understanding of this complex and beautiful island.