Discovering Door County, Wisconsin

When I announced my plans to visit Door County, I was asked two questions.  Where, then, why?

To answer the first – Door County is situated at the northern tip of Wisconsin’s mid-state peninsula jutting northward and is bordered by the waters of Green Bay to the west and Lake Michigan to the east. To answer the second I think a little story is necessary.  My trip from the West Coast was a lengthy one – a multi-stop, early morning flight to Milwaukee, followed by a three hour drive to Sturgeon Bay, the county seat.  So, when I finally arrived in the early evening at the Black Walnut Guest House, noted for its Victorian appeal (three stories and nine gables painted yellow and white and surrounded by black walnut trees), I was ready for a short walk, a hot shower and a long sleep, in that order.

Plans change as they say, and mine did when the proprietor, Geri Ballard, escorted me to Room #1, named Eastlake, and my home for the next two nights.  Anxious to don my tennies and head out to explore but also wanting details of the spacious guestroom, I asked where a flight of stairs led thinking maybe to a loft for additional guests.  I wasn’t quite prepared for Geri’s response. “This room is beneath the house’s turret.  Your private Jacuzzi is at the top of the stairs in the turret.”  True to her word, the windowed mini-tower housed a sunken tub with lavender bath salts, tea candles and a 360° tree-top view of the historic town.  Need I say that I didn’t explore Sturgeon that evening but instead spent an hour luxuriating Door County style?

That initial impression, coupled with discoveries made over the next several days, produced many more answers to the “why” question.  So, join me in learning why Door County, Wisconsin, should be on your radar next summer.

The following morning I was formally introduced to Sturgeon Bay, considered the gateway to the county (although its location is approaching the county’s midway point).  Named Wisconsin’s friendliest town, it exudes an almost 1950’s feeling, with a downtown that sets the stage for a step back in time.  Its main street, Louisiana Street, is lined with mom-and-pop stores as well as The Inn at Cedar Crossing Restaurant, a white stone building with green awnings. The café is a down-home eatery known for goodies described as “from scratch baking to fine dining.”  I found Popelka Trenchard Glass, a short walk away in a nondescript building, which housed fantastic examples of the art of glassblowing, its decorative pieces reminiscent of Dale Chihuly’s masterpieces.  I learned this was not simply coincidence as master glassblower Jeremy Popelka taught for Chihuly.  Though Louisiana Street was lined with shops, my shopping street of choice was Jefferson St., where offerings included Bliss, a showcase of room after room of color coordinated home furnishings and Elliott’s Mercantile, a unique general store with cigars, Wisconsin monopoly sets and everything popcorn.

Before exploring further, I decided to stop for a coffee and a bit of breakfast at Door County Coffee & Tea Co. where I enjoyed egg strata and French press cherry coffee, paying homage to Door County’s well known cherry drinks and foods.  Featuring over 100 coffee blends, an assortment of egg dishes and pastries, it’s a must do.

This county is Wisconsin’s largest so it’s wise to board one of the distinctive red Door County Trolleys for a scenic, narrated, get-your-bearings tour, which also gives insight into local lore and legend.  You’ll traverse tree-lined streets past miles of shoreline and acres of green parkland, glimpse welcoming B&Bs, American flags, scattered Adirondack chairs and specialty boutiques. And you’ll visit the 3,700-acre Peninsula State Park, home to 12 miles of bike trails and 19 miles of hiking and cross country ski trails.  It’s also known for its golf course, the 18 hole course contained within the state park.  The tour will simply underscore the fact that the county is indeed quaint, charming and picturesque; words often overused but in this case, nothing but the truth.

Sporting 300 miles of shoreline and all of the activities that come with this geographic blessing, it’s little wonder Door County was named one of North America’s top 10 vacation destinations playing host to two million annual visitors (mostly in the summer).  Sister Bay is the prime base for on-the-water activities, from swimming to kayaking and sailing, all of which I did and all of which gave me a completely different perspective of this distinctive destination.  The latest addition to the fun nautical scene is the Edith M. Becker, a 62 foot Class B tall ship, a classification which translates to a traditionally rigged sailing vessel.

On the food scene Fred & Fuzzy’s Waterfront Grill is known for its casual menu with items like cheese curds (a Wisconsin specialty), three cheese grilled sandwich, steak-and bleu cheese sandwich and cherry margaritas.  Perched on the edge of Sister Bay, with alfresco dining beneath red umbrellas steps from the shoreline, it’s a popular locals and visitors hangout.  Another option, Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant, is known around the world for its goats grazing on its green sod roof.  Here’s a little inside info.  The goats climb on the roof each day by walking a safe, slanted stairway with footholds then are moved to a farm in the evening.  The origin of the practice dates to a long ago birthday prank that a friend of the late Al Johnson played, making his namesake eatery one of the most famous in Door County.  Such is the level of interest here that there’s even a Goat Cam where viewers can follow the goats’ daily activities.

In addition to Sturgeon Bay and Sister Bay there are towns like Fish Creek and Ephraim, both colorful and each very different.  Then there’s Rowley’s Bay, Whitefish Bay and Bailey’s Harbor.  Crisscrossing the peninsula from its western to eastern shore will give you a sense of the county’s diversity so go exploring because nothing is a great distance.

Fish Creek is home to Orchard Country Winery & Market, where the freshly picked Door County Montmorency cherry is revered.  The retailer has its own winery, cherry pit spit contest and gift boutique.  Here, cherries rule—Cherry Blossom wine, freshly baked cherry pies and jugs of fresh pressed tart cherry juice.

“Evening in Ephraim” is a special Monday night celebration of local music and late night shopping in Ephraim.  Hosted 10 times each summer, it showcases the town’s local musicians along with fun shops and galleries.  A stop at Wilson’s Restaurant & Ice Cream Parlor is a blast to the past.  A landmark since 1906, complete with red and white striped awnings, it’s an old-fashioned soda fountain with a jukebox, home brewed draft root beer and devilish ice cream temptations (think extra thick malts, banana splits and Cherry Berry Delight).

The classic fish boil at Rowley’s Bay Restaurant overlooking Rowley’s Bay and Lake Michigan includes storyteller impersonator, “Peter Rowley,” who weaves the tale of the fish boil alongside a fiery kettle – a long time community tradition of cooking local whitefish, potatoes and baby onions in a large pot over a wood fire. At the end of the cooking, kerosene is thrown on the fire and the dramatic “flame up” causes the stew to boil over. The end result is mouth-watering fish and vegetables.

Whitefish Bay is the location of one of the five national parks within Door County (Newport State Park, Peninsula State Park, Potawatomi State Park, Rock Island State Park and Whitefish Dunes State Park, collectively called the “five jewels in the crown”).  Whitefish Dunes State Park claims the state’s highest sand dune, Old Baldy, and is home to eight Native American villages dating from 100 BC to the late 1800’s.  The best part of a visit here is a walk along the white-sugar sand beach on the shore of Lake Michigan.

Baileys Harbor is known for the Cana Island Lighthouse, a shore fixture since 1869 and known as Wisconsin’s most photographed lighthouse.  After a 97 step climb, its stately white tower offers an unobstructed view of the isolated, windswept shore.

But for me the biggest Door County surprise was its plethora of warm weather activities like Ephraim’s American Folklore Theatre, an open air theater with productions that are locally written and produced. From my experience their shows are on par with anything playing in New York and even London.  Then there’s the Midsummer’s Music Festival bringing in professional classical musicians to play works from the masters and performed in intimate and casual settings such as galleries, churches and private homes.  Another option located in Fish Creek is the Peninsula Players Theatre, America’s oldest professional resident summer theatre.  A highlight of this tree surrounded venue is the pre-theatre and intermission scene, where the shoreline Beer Garden beckons patrons.

Upon my return the question of “why” was answered with “why not.”  Why not go to this Wisconsin haunt known for its back in the day, Americana at its best offerings?  I now know why Door County is called the “Cape Cod of the Midwest.”

*Door County is Wisconsin’s largest county with 300 miles of shoreline and a population that explodes between Memorial Day and Labor Day.  Named one of the top 10 vacation destinations in North America, it hosts two million visitors a year.

www.doorcounty.com