On Safari in the Sergengeti Mara, Tanzania

The Serengeti is world famous for the wonderful wildlife, and in particular, the annual migration of the animals, specifically millions of wildebeest and zebras crossing the Mara river with crocodiles and other predators ready to pounce on the opportunity to catch abundant prey.

An Adventurous Journey

To get to this remote region is quite an adventure in itself – the international plane lands at Kilimanjaro airport before one catches a very small plane to this prime viewing outpost. Excitement for the safari adventure of a lifetime mounted as we loaded our carefully planned small bags onto the flight. We were boarding a light aircraft to Kogatende in the Serengeti Mara, situated in a remote northwestern corner of Tanzania and where it is continuous with the Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya. The plane, carrying 13 passengers, stopped at least four times enroute, deplaning and loading up tourists and goods along the way. When we finally reached our fly-in destination at Kogatende in the Serengeti National Park, we shook off slight nausea and found our ‘land legs’. Safari vehicles were lining the runway and guides started tracking down their clients.

Spotting the Crossing

Shomande greeted us with a warm smile and loaded us, luggage and all, on to his waiting four-by-four safari vehicle. He said that the drive to the lodge would, in fact, be a game drive and that we would be heading for a point on the river where there was an expected ‘crossing’.  We soon learned that a ‘crossing’ was where the animals cross the Mara river. This was basically what tourists come to see since the Mara is a fast-flowing river and the herds of animals crossing en masse have to fight the currents and each other to get to the other side. Of course, crocodiles and other predators wait patiently as well, ready to pounce on the weaker animals or those who somehow get stuck while swimming.

We traversed the river, looking for signs of a crossing, such as an enormous amount of dust being thrown up or animals starting to mill around while seemingly heading for the water. Apparently, there are about eleven favorite possible ‘crossing’ points in that area. We were surrounded by herds of wildebeest, so we parked the vehicle in a shady spot to enjoy the spectacle.  Munching on late lunches tucked into individual bags behind each seat, we sat in awe, listening to the monotonous bleating as the leaders of individual groups ran around in circles taking stock of their family members.

Then suddenly, people started shouting and the air exploded. Our driver jumped into action, steering our vehicle to a better vantage point and we felt the drama of the bush unfold before us. Sure enough, one wildebeest had plunged into the water, and what followed was a spectacle none of us will ever forget! A continuous stream of wildebeest forged ahead, pushing each other out of the way, climbing over one another, frantically swimming against the stream, some trying desperately to gain a foothold on rocky outcrops, others slipping on the steep sandy banks. We watched as the herds reached the top embankments on the opposite side. Three wildebeest were still valiantly struggling in the river, but sadly, fell prey to the giant crocodiles that glided silently towards them. During the aftermath, at intervals, a few wildebeest came galloping back to the edge of the river as if in search of the ones that didn’t make it.

Adventure with a Touch of Luxury

Recent floods in the Serengeti National Park had severely impacted some roads and we had quite an adventurous ride maneuvering around dongas and potholes on our way to the lodge. As we drew nearer, we could see the encampment perched on top of a hill, overlooking the river and the vast plains. The views from every point on the property were stunning. The open-sided main building had a beautifully decorated lounge and dining areas furnished with comfortable plush seating which led to an outdoor bar and campfire area. Our five-star luxury tents had all the modern conveniences, and the staff, consisting only of males from the local Maasai communities, escorted us to and from our tents since we were surrounded by wild animals – an authentic ‘Out of Africa’ experience.

As the sun set, we gathered around, meeting other guests while enjoying cocktails and an excellent selection of South African wines. Dinner was a four-course affair: an unusual, yet delicious, banana soup, followed by a taste of the local river fish, marinated game, and a tart flan. We fell asleep to the sounds of the night with hyenas prowling around while whooping to each other, and zebras barking in the distance.

Wildlife Adventures Continue

We were up very early the next morning for our game drive, this time in search of the big cats. Lions, leopards, and cheetahs have a sizeable presence in this area because of the preponderance of prey, but we had to drive a considerable distance to get to the habitat they favor. We steered through thousands of wildebeest, individual herds grazing, galloping, and generally making a big noise. It was indeed a sight that continually caused one to gasp with wonder. We were surprised to chance upon another crossing, this time though at a much quieter part of the river and with sandbanks for the animals to walk across. Then, we were fortunate to see a leopard furtively run through the long grass and then cross the road right behind our vehicle. Soon after, we spotted a lioness, lazily stretched out under a tree.

As we returned to the lodge, we marveled at the variety of wildlife we’d seen – the herds of elephants silently moving through the long grass, the pods of hippos snorting in the river, the graceful giraffe towering above the trees, the turquoise flash of the lilac-breasted roller taking off from its perch, the flocks of marabou storks and the waiting vultures.  But what remained indelible was the miles and miles of herd upon herd of wildebeest and zebras, and of course, their incredible migration through the Serengeti Mara river.