I needed a place to really get away. Not necessarily some far corner of the Earth, and not a place where I’d have to punch a wolf in the face for dinner either. Just a place to close the computer, shut off the phone and just … unwind.
Like an epic vision quest, the need for R&R led me over hill and dale to a bump on a log between Silicon Valley tech and the glam of L.A. that amazingly, was out of sync with both. Finding its niche as an artists’ retreat way back at the start of the 1900s, Carmel-by-the-Sea has retained that vibe. So much so that this take-it-at-your-own-pace town is practically the decompression chamber of central California.
Private and Exclusive
It certainly has all the necessary components; few places are as Type A about staying quaint. To keep from being “citified,” Carmel-by-the-Sea passed a few laws to keep it like being in the countryside. Buildings must be under a certain height, and public consumption of ice cream was banned until 1986. Ancestors of the modern-day treehugger, the town forefathers forbade tree roots being cut just for the sake of a level sidewalk; Carmel’s notoriously bumpy walkways gave rise to one of the greatest oddball laws in the country: high-heels over two inches are banned. Not that the law is enforced, mind you, and you can get a very popular ceremonial “waiver” signed by the mayor so you can strut your stuff legally. But just tread lightly.
There is no ostentatious signage, no parking meters, no sidewalks outside the commercial district, no chain restaurants, no streetlights (bring a flashlight), and to the chagrin of many a visitor, no street addresses. To find a place you have to get a map and count the storefronts (no kidding).
Carmel-by-the-Sea remains artsy and retreat like to this day, and wandering physically or mentally is a running theme. If I wanted to sit on a beach and daydream, I could! If I wanted to feed my brain at one, or all, of the 87 art galleries that make Carmel-by-the-Sea a town-sized museum, I could! In fact, if I wanted to go even further and let my senses get lost in a canvas under the tutelage of master artist Mary Titus, I could — provided I called ahead and made an appointment at her art lab. I hope you get the idea – selective.
Wine and Dine
Not having a Pizza Hut anywhere close by turned the town into one of California’s premier food-and-wine destinations, provided you can find the eateries. The Italian masterpieces of Chef Quinn Thompson at Il Grillo, for example, were definitely worth the hunt, but most of Carmel-by-the-Sea’s other restaurants are not so into “only-the-locals-know” subterfuge. Some, like Terry’s Lounge at the historic Cypress Inn, practically revel in a spotlight … literally. Hollywood Golden Age sweetheart Doris Day owns the Cypress, and Terry’s basks in her glory. The 1920’s-style cocktails are pitch perfect. And speaking of libations …
Travel + Leisure, National Geographic, and even Dogster rave about Carmel’s admittedly gorgeous beaches, but let’s forget surf and sport for a minute. The town fronts the Salinas Valley, an agricultural wonderland and a hotspot for grape growing; oenophiles of every type will find their Nirvana among the tasting rooms of the famous Carmel Wine Walk. This 13-stop tour of reds, whites, rosés, and sparkling puts the dizzyingly diverse Salinas viticulture center stage and I can’t think of a better walking tour.
While marveling at the town’s whimsical architecture (Spanish Mission meets Thomas Kinkade meets Hansel and Gretel), you’ll get some low-level stargazing in thanks to a few celebrity brands like Drew Barrymore at Carmel Road and soundtrack wunderkind Alan Silvestri at Silvestri Vineyards. By the way, Clint Eastwood was so taken with the town he ran for mayor and won.
And here’s a piece of advice: stock up on California wine now. The 2017 wildfires wiped out 22 vineyards in Napa and Sonoma, and the word in Carmel is that wine prices in two years will soar — even for those touched by nary a spark. Something to think about, I mused, as the California sunlight streamed through Caraccioli Cellars’ sparkling 2010 Brut Cuvée. Zesty, only for as long as it can last.
I Love the Nightlife
Being as small as it is, Carmel-by-the-Sea does not have what a New Yorker like me would call “nightlife.” The streets empty fast at sunset, but that is probably because so many people are on the beach watching it. It’s not gospel yet but this town has a hammerlock on gorgeous gloamings.
The colors of a Carmel twilight are so phantasmagoric that I began to wonder what else was in that wine I’d tasted. Certainly, people must have thought the same seeing me, charging helter-skelter down Ocean Avenue to the shore, camera in tow, frantic to catch the show. And I wasn’t the only one; on good days impromptu viewing parties spontaneously generate on the sands.
Then darkness fell, and I made my way back to the Hotel Carmel, where open, airy spaces welcome the California sunshine as much as embrace a Pacific Coast night. Cozying up to the fire pit, and helped along by a 2013 Garnet Cabernet Sauvignon, I took in the stars and the perfect quiet. The wind stirred the bougainvillea as the fire whispered a secret in a harsh rustle drowning out the call of a mockingbird.
I marveled how, through the sheer force of its own identity, Carmel-by-the-Sea remained a country town, neither too big nor too small. It was firmly and proudly in that magical Goldilocks zone of “just right.” Had I the power, I could not have made it better.
The area code for Carmel-by-the-Sea is 831.
What to Know:
The lack of street addresses can throw Carmel newbies as many of the city blocks feature courtyards discreetly tucked away where many businesses take up residence. Can’t find a place even though the GPS says you are there? Make sure there isn’t some sort of interior recess you missed. Also, Carmel is cool; natives told me they have just two seasons: Spring and Autumn. And while San Francisco is famed for fogbanks, Carmel-by-the-Sea gets socked on occasion, too.
Where to Stay:
Cypress Inn — Clearly proprietress Doris Day isn’t using the property to self-aggrandize; the Cypress Inn has the easy-going vibe nailed, with only a few tasteful hints of silver screen glamour. Rather, the 44 rooms push a provenance going all the way back to 1929, an extremely dog-friendly environment, and a rich, warm Mediterranean decor. Lincoln Ave. & 7th Street, Carmel, 800-443-7443; cypress-inn.com
Hotel Carmel — Open, airy, and very “beachy,” this bungalow-style property, just a short walk from the shops and restaurants on Ocean Avenue, oriented its 27 rooms perfectly so that all the glorious California sunshine can beam through the windows. Guests have their own fireplaces, huge beds, and thread counts right out the door. Breakfast is complimentary, as is the nightly Happy Hour at sunset. Warm and friendly, and with an exterior fire pit and hot tub, the Hotel Carmel is a California dream. 4th Ave. & San Carlos Street, Carmel-by-the-Sea, 855-622-7635; thehotelcarmel.com
[caption id="attachment_41809" align="aligncenter" width="600"]
The Beachy Lobby at Hotel Carmel[/caption]
La Playa Hotel — I could say that this is the power-address in town or that the gardens are endlessly in bloom, or that the open spaces let the sea air and sunlight in to embrace guests. I could say that. Or I could say that each Sunday from 5:00pm to 5:10pm the hotel features well drinks for just a dime. Not joking, just 10¢. Get there ahead of time, because the bar packs up fast. Or, book a slice of California paradise in any of the 75 rooms and lie in wait. If you want to impress the natives, the century-old La Playa is your go-to, and the beach is only two blocks away. Camino Real at Eighth Ave., Carmel, 800-582-8900; laplayahotel.com
Where to Eat:
Affina — A bit of France along the California coastline, Affina pulls off a nifty trick by being both sophisticated and casual at the same time. For example, the Affina Burger is a meat-lover’s dream, but served with baby greens, aioli, tomato jam, and a crispy potato galette. It was here that I had what was probably the best grilled cheese ever. Corner of 6th Ave. and San Carlos, Carmel, 831-250-7744; affinacarmel.com
Anton & Michel — A 2013 refurbishing turned this place into the epitome of relaxed elegance, which is a running theme here. With a fountain out back, unfinished stone walls and warm gold and brown wood splashed everywhere, the ambience is completely unpretentious. The award-winning menu features a delectable Maple Leaf Duck Breast and a Honey-Thyme Glazed Salmon. Court of the Fountains, Mission Street between Ocean Ave. and Seventh, 831-624-2406; antonandmichel.com
Brophy’s Tavern — Next to the Hotel Carmel, Brophy’s pulls double-duty as the sports bar of Carmel-by-the-Sea, down to the fish and chips and big-screen TVs. Featuring an extensive beer selection, the atmosphere will warm you right up. 4th Ave. & San Carlos St., Carmel, 831-586-5566; brophystavern.com
Il Grillo — Like a speakeasy, Il Grillo goes the extra mile and rarely puts out its sign. It’s tiny: 10 people and the place is packed. Battle through the hype, however, and you’ll dine on some of the best Italian food in the region. So worth it. Mission Ave. between 4th & 5th, Carmel, 831-238-9608; ilgrillocarmel.com
Terry’s Lounge — The indoor/outdoor eatery of the Cypress Inn features a cocktail menu straight out of the 1920s; one cannot help feel like puttin’ on the Ritz with an old-school Sazerac or Manhattan. The food menu is composed almost entirely of local, farm-to-table delicacies. A big plus: Afternoon Tea on Saturdays, with Day’s movies shown on request. Terry’s Restaurant + Lounge at Cypress Inn, Lincoln Ave. & 7th Street, Carmel, 831-620-7454; carmelterrys.com
La Playa — Whether at the hotel’s famous Champagne Breakfast Buffet in the Library or at the snazzy Bar and Lounge for a Happy Hour cocktail with snacks, the La Playa Hotel turns every moment into a sit-back-and-relax experience. Camino Real at Eighth Ave., Carmel, 800-582-8900; laplayahotel.com/dining/light-fare
Lula’s Chocolates — Cozy and elegant, this boutique chocolatier is a great place to pick up souvenirs of the edible sort. NW Mission St between Ocean and 7th Ave., Carmel, 831-624-5852; lulas.com
Pescadero — This is the go to place in town for tequila (and mezcal). And guacamole. And rockfish tacos. And just about anything else if Mexican food is your desire. They serve a mean margarita and the guacamole is made right at your table. Between San Carlos E and S 7th Ave., Carmel, 831-624-7400; facebook.com/pescaderocarmel
Vesuvio — A trattoria-pizzeria that is straight out of Campania, be prepared for a menu that is all about southern Italy but not above infusing some Asian influences into the menu. If you can, nab a seat on the rooftop terrace where the views are spectacular. Vesuvio stays open late, too (till 11 PM). Corner of 6th Ave. & Junipero St, 831-625-1766; chefpepe.com/restaurants/vesuvio
What to See and Do:
17-Mile Drive — You’ll need a car to get to Carmel-by-the-Sea so why not use it to cruise what is widely acknowledged as one of the most beautiful scenic drives on Earth? Curling around the Monterey Peninsula, photo-ops include the Lone Cypress (a rocky promontory with a single tree on top) and Bird Rock.
Carmel Beach — Wide, clean, and one of the most pet-friendly beaches in the country, you can catch a flock of birds coming in for a landing and, if you’re lucky, sea otters at play in the kelp gardens offshore. carmelcalifornia.com/carmel-beach
Carmel Wine Walk — Thirteen tasting rooms comprise the Carmel Wine Walk. De Tierra is right out of Tuscany; there’s a non-stop party over at Scheid; Windy Oaks is arty; Carmel Road is sleek and modern, and Caraccioli Cellars is all stained wood with an Old World vibe. Some get specific: Dawn’s Dream Winery is geared to the female consumer. Others branch out with an array of olive oils to boot. For $100, you can get a “passport” that lets you sample 10 out of the 13 rooms. carmelcalifornia.com/things-to-do-wine-tasting
Mindfulness — A brainchild from the folks at Mindful Magazine, “mindfulness” is a mental exercise to unplug and enjoy the little moments, however fleeting or minutes-long, of everyday life. carmelcalifornia.com/mindful-by-the-sea
Monterey Aquarium — A great option if the weather turns, this renowned showcase of Pacific sea life is one of the best. 886 Cannery Row, Monterey, 831-648-4800; montereybayaquarium.org
Ocean Avenue – The economic spine of Carmel-by-the-Sea, this leafy street contains all the retail therapy your heart desires, from art galleries to clothiers to candy stores to Tiffany. It also leads right to the beach. carmelcalifornia.com/carmel-maps-and-directions
Scenic Bluff Path — A clean, well-maintained gravel pathway running along Carmel Beach offers sweeping views of Carmel Bay. Take your dog; Carmel-by-the-Sea is one of the most Fido-friendly destinations in the USA. carmelcalifornia.com/carmel-beach
Sunset Center — With only 718 seats, it has some of the best acoustics in the state. San Carlos St at Ninth Ave, 831.620.2048; sunsetcenter.org
Titus Gallery — It is a fool’s game to rate one Carmel gallery over another but strolling past the Ganesha statue and riotously colorful abstract works by Mary Titus gave me the impression that this is one of the top five. Titus holds classes downstairs, demystifying the process of making a great abstract painting. Between San Carlos St & 6th Ave., 831-622-9880; marytitusart.com
For all the other galleries: carmelcalifornia.com