Sleepy. Quiet. Low-key. That’s how the beach town of Zihuatanejo is often described. Perfect! After exploring several of Mexico’s colonial towns, we were looking forward to some R&R.
Our bus first took us along a tree-lined highway into the neighboring coastal town of Ixtapa. With bright clean buildings and a manicured, grass-fringed bike path, the town’s outskirts felt almost Hawaiian. In Zihuatanejo, a short taxi ride deposited us at the charmingly named “La Casa Que Canta” (The House that Sings). Perched on a promontory, its three guest wings clamber down the rocks to the crashing waves below. All have a stunning view over Zihuatanejo Bay with the town (lights twinkling at night) to the right, a green hillside studded with homes straight ahead, and the bay’s golden La Ropa beach curving to the left toward Las Gatas beach. This was the Zihuatanejo we had dreamed about …
View toward La Casa Que Canta“Zihua,” and it’s strikingly different sister town Ixtapa, are both hot resort spots favored by North Americans escaping harsh winters. And they deliver the goods. Formerly a small fishing village nestled along a tranquil bay, Zihua now attracts sportfishers (looking for Pacific sail-fish, dorado and other exotic species), sun worshippers, eco-tourists, and marine and jungle adventure seekers.
Though it offers some high-end restaurants and plenty of tourist facilities, Zihua still retains a small town flavor. Fishing is a mainstay of its economy, alongside tourism. At night, romantically lit, the town invites casual strolling and lingering to inspect the local crafts on display in the gift shops. Then, Mexican drinks and dinner at one of the town’s many dining spots is the norm. For beachfront dining, some restaurants are just steps away, strung along the town’s beachfront walkway (or Malecon) overlooking boats anchored in the bay.
In contrast to Zihua, Ixtapa has more of a Miami Beach feel. Its glitzy high-rise hotels and all-inclusive resorts are set along the wide crescent shaped Playa el Palmar beach (named after a former coconut plantation there). Only four highway miles from Zihua, Ixtapa is a more sophisticated, modern resort town (developed decades ago as a planned holiday destination) which complements the more laid-back Zihua.
IxtapaFor us, the hot humid climate was ideal for spending lazy days on Zihuatanejo’s iconic La Ropa beach (so named for the silks and clothing spilled on the beach by a wrecked colonial merchant ship). Blissfully lounging by the ocean, we spotted the occasional whale and stingray and enjoyed watching kids splashing in the ocean, families building sand castles and joggers puffing along the wide mile-long beach.
Sailboat on Playa La RopaOccasionally we were entertained by a venturesome “flyer” with a James Bond-style JetLev flying jet pack contraption, that sports water jets on both sides. Water streaming noisily from them, our hero would rise from the ocean, hover back and forth unsteadily above the surface for a bit, then suddenly splash down. Cue the applause from onlookers who enjoyed the show. But mostly the protected bay was quiet, its gentle bathtub-warm water great for swimming. There was barely a beach vendor, and only a few wave-runners and some pangas could be heard chugging across the bay in the distance (these canopied boats take people on the popular 10-minute boat ride to Las Gatas beach).
Playa La RopaOne morning, we walked along the rugged path leading from the southern end of La Ropa beach to Las Gatas beach. Apart from some careful tippy-toeing in a few rocky spots, it was an easy 45-minute walk from the Viceroy Hotel on La Ropa (where we stayed after La Casa Que Canta) to the landing spot for the pangas from town. Around the point stretched Las Gatas, with welcoming beach restaurants cheek-by-jowl all along. A swim was irresistible! And we were back at the Viceroy before noon, where, in civilized fashion, late breakfasts are offered.
Playa Las GatasThe next morning, we set off to town in the opposite direction, taking the well-marked level pathway winding along the foot of the cliffs and the ocean coves, past hotels and beachside restaurants, sometimes walking on the beach itself. It was good exercise, with ocean views to the left – and we were glad we dressed lightly as the morning heated up on the return.
We also took the popular excursion to Isla Ixtapa, a much-loved little island. (Tip: you’ll need Mexican pesos for all payments.) The departure point is the small Playa Linda marina in Ixtapa where a bonus awaits. A fenced-off mangrove estuary feeds into the ocean here, with big crocodiles sunning on its banks and two-foot-long iguanas resting on tree branches keeping out of harm’s way. White herons strut their stuff, too. It was lovely to watch – and we were happy about the fence! From a small wooden stall on the dock, we then bought our tickets for the panga ride to the island, a black lava rock island with palm trees and brushland in the middle.
Los Ixtapa (Ixtapa Island)There are three beaches on Ixtapa Island. Two sandy beaches facing Ixtapa are calm for swimming (but hot with no breezes). A third beach (a snorkeling coral beach) is a few minutes’ walk to the other side of the island. With a cooling breeze, it was far more pleasant to plonk down on and go snorkeling. Though the water was silty, we saw quite a few fish – clouds of pink and green rainbow trigger fish, black and white striped sergeant majors and a few butterfly fish. And the water was wonderfully warm, so no need for wetsuits.
On all three beaches at the water’s edge are rows of white plastic chairs and tables covered with colorful tablecloths. Cocktails are made and freshly caught seafood is grilled in a communal open air kitchen in the middle of the island. For lunch we had grilled fresh lobster, crab and shrimp – served on a tin platter – with a spicy salsa on the side, rice and homemade tortillas. And great margaritas, of course!
Lunch on the beach at the Viceroy restaurantAlas, our stay was too short. There was no time to visit the quaint beach village of Troncones (famous for its surfing beach) some 20 miles from Zihua, or Barra di Potosi, a small fishing village 17 miles south-east. Next time …
www.explorandomexico.com/state/11/Guerrero/attractions/
Where to Stay:
Viceroy Zihuatanejo – Commanding the best beachfront location in Zihuatanejo, this 46-room casita-style resort spans 600 feet of La Ropa’s silky beach. Thatched palapas along the beach, sturdy day beds with thick cushions, toys in a basket for children, beach butlers, seafood lunch on a wooden table and chairs in the sand right nearby (no need to get out of your swimsuit) – the beach palapa experience doesn’t get any better. Families with little ones will love a one- or two-bedroom ground level beach front suite (700 to 1,100 square feet). The Viceroy is a favorite with well-off multi-generational family groups. But it suits couples too. A spa, cooking classes, two beachfront restaurants, two lit tennis courts and a resident tennis instructor are all on offer.
[caption id="attachment_24088" align="alignnone" width="600"] Lagoon suites in a casita at the Viceroy Zihuatanejo[/caption]
Playa La Ropa, Zihuatanejo; 866-905-9560; www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/
La Casa Que Canta – A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, this romantic boutique resort, adults-only, offers 25 suites in three multi-tiered adobe buildings on a cliffside overlooking Zihuatanejo Bay. All suites have terraces overlooking the sea and come with super comfortable king-size beds. Couples love sunning by a stunning freshwater infinity pool at the top or lounging by a palm-shaded saltwater pool below, close to the beach and the waves crashing on the rocks below. The hotel’s alfresco restaurant, high on a rocky point, is a top spot in Zihuatanejo for fine dining by candlelight. Exceptional service.
Camino Escensio, Playa La Ropa, Zihuatanejo; 888-523-5050; www.lacasaquecanta.com
Where to Eat:
Coconuts – A Zihuatanejo institution for 30 years, this restaurant is housed in the town’s oldest building. Dating back to 1865, it was once part of a vast hacienda and coconut plantation, hence the name. Today, it delights with its lovely courtyard setting, amidst lush greenery, palms and plants. White tablecloths and romantic lighting enhance the dining experience. The fresh fish and grilled steaks are delicious. Caesar salad is prepared at your table, and you can finish off with flaming Crepes Suzette and Mexican coffee, also made table-side.
Augustin Ramirez 1, Colonia Centro, Zihuatanejo, 755-554-2518; www.coconutszihua.com
Villa de la Selva – With its spectacular setting overlooking the ocean, this beautiful tiered open-air restaurant is a favourite spot to celebrate special occasions. Now a top-rated restaurant in Ixtapa, the villa was once owned by a Mexican president. Start with the giant, plump and juicy tempura prawns with an avocado dip, and the garlicky Caesar salad, then choose your seafood or fresh fish delicacy. Perhaps try the tamarind margarita, or go straight to the extensive wine list. We had a memorable dining experience here.
Paseo de la Roca, Ixtapa, 755-533-0462; www.villadelaselva.com.mx
La Casa Que Canta restaurant – Aptly named “Mar Y Cielo” (Sea and Sky), this restaurant, a favorite of visitors and locals alike, enchants with its gourmet candlelight dinners under the stars. Set on a rocky point in the La Casa Que Canta resort, it overlooks Zihuatanejo bay and Zihuatanejo’s town lights twinkling at night. Dinner guests are spoiled with delicately prepared and presented Mexican specialties, coupled with impeccable service.
Camino Escensio, Playa La Ropa, Zihuatanejo; 888-523-5050; www.lacasaquecanta.com
What to See and Do:
Playa Linda – Check out the fenced crocodile sanctuary at the entrance to this beach. Called “Lovely Beach” in Spanish, it’s located by the marina in Ixtapa. Here you can see lots of wild crocodiles in their natural habitat, along with sizeable iguanas and white-feathered herons. It’s about $10 by taxi from Playa La Ropa (or $6 from central Zihua town).
Isla Ixtapa – At the Playa Linda marina in Ixtapa, you can buy tickets for a collective panga to Isla Ixtapa. It costs about $3 roundtrip (but you must pay in Mexican pesos) and goes every 15 minutes or so. The short boat ride for this popular island excursion takes about 10 minutes. Once there, swimming, snorkeling just plain beach relaxation and plenty of fresh seafood and beer or margaritas await.
Ixtapa Ciclopista – You can rent bicycles in Ixtapa (or take a bike tour) to pedal along the paved five-mile bike path which runs between Marina Ixtapa and Playa Linda. Or take the 2.4 mile paved path in the opposite direction from Ixtapa to Zihuatanejo. Morning, late afternoon or evening will let you avoid the mid-day heat. The wide paths are shared by cyclists, joggers and roller-bladers, with designated lanes.