A Beginner’s Guide
Imagine an idyllic coastline of tropical beaches and world-class surf breaks, backed by a gorgeous hinterland of smouldering volcanoes – and virtually no tourists. Throw in a handful of ravishing colonial Spanish towns and a dynamic capital and you’ve got El Salvador, one of the most enticing yet least visited nations in Central America. True: poverty and crime remain big problems here, but remember that the civil war ended way back in 1992. Tourists are rarely affected, and outside the capital your biggest worry will be sunburn. Driving around the country is easy and fast (it’s small enough to get anywhere in a couple of hours) and the official currency is US dollars. Salvadoreños are some of the friendliest people in Latin America and English is widely spoken – almost everyone you meet has a relation working in the US (or has been ‘up north’ themselves).
San Salvador
First time visitors might be tempted to skip the capital San Salvador, but though it can seem like a chaotic, sprawling mess at first glance, this would be a mistake. Tucked in between the traffic jams are some real historic gems, and the city’s vibrant nightlife offers the best chance to mingle with the nation’s newly emerging middle class.
The city is certainly spread out, with the affluent western suburbs contrasting with the melee and markets of Downtown or “El Centro”. Travelling between the two is easy and safe by bus ($0.75) or taxi ($8-10). El Centro is the place to come for some real Latin American flavour; aromatic markets of fresh avocados, chilli peppers and herbs, horse carts and trucks jostling for space, and a sprinkling of elegant Spanish Colonial churches and mansions. Of the two central squares, Parque Libertad is the most pleasant, ringed by shady portals stuffed with stores and shoe-shine stands. Nearby Plaza Barrios has less character, but does feature the two best sights downtown. The Palacio Nacional, a graceful Beaux Arts structure completed in 1913, serves as the Museo de los Tres Poderes del Estado (“museum of the three branches of government”), a tranquil retreat from the madness outside. Inside you’ll find beautifully restored halls and period 1930s-style rooms, lush gardens and cool verandas, as well as a small exhibition on the history of the city. On the northern side of the plaza, be sure to have a peek inside the equally calming Catedral Metropolitana, a domed white hulk decorated with striking contemporary murals by local artist Fernando Llort. The cathedral is based on Renaissance designs, but modern reconstruction was only completed in 1999. The spacious and refreshingly cool interior was where Archbishop Oscar Romero once ministered. His murder in March 1980 is generally considered to have sparked the civil war; while he was being buried in a chapel beneath the nave, his followers were fired upon by government troops and many were killed.
For another sobering reminder of El Salvador’s grisly civil war, visit the Parque Cuscatlán, a bucolic grassy space just west of downtown, studded with trees and soccer fields. Here the Monumento a la Memoria y la Verdad commemorates all those who were murdered or “disappeared” during the war years, their names listed on a glassy marble wall along the northern embankment of park.
Exploring the Interior
El Salvador has a truly sensational interior of mountains, volcanoes and lakes, well worth exploring. You can travel around by bus, which is very cheap but uncomfortable and time consuming – hiring taxis or renting cars is easy and much more convenient. Even if your time is limited, try and squeeze in the two most rewarding trips; the Lago de Coatepeque and Suchitoto.
Little more than an hour’s drive west of the capital, a side road breaks off from the Pan American Highway to snake its way towards the mesmerizing crater lake of Lago de Coatepeque. The drop down into the crater affords gasp-inducing views and plenty of roadside cafés along the way. From here the lake is a vast swath of deep blue, hemmed in by the jungle-smothered walls of the crater – development has so far been kept to minimum and the whole scene is backed by the Cerro Verde massif, a series of three volcano peaks that dominate the horizon. The lakeside itself is lined with private villas, but there a few places were you can grab a drink on the shoreline – you can even swim and take boat trips from the Turicentro Rancho Alegre (US$15 per person for a full circuit of the lake).
For a window into El Salvador’s past you need to drive one hour east of the capital to Suchitoto, an enchanting Spanish colonial town on the edge of the mountains and another lake, Lago de Suchitlán. Taxis will take you here for $40 from San Salvador, but make sure you arrange to be picked up – there are no taxis in Suchitoto. There’s not much to see – the lovely whitewashed Iglesia Santa Lucía is worth a look, with a particularly atmospheric interior of peeling walls, wooden altar and timber pillars – but the real attraction here is the town itself, an unspoiled cluster of single story adobe houses with red clay roof tiles, falling down the hillsides. Aimless wandering will uncover old bakeries with ancient machines pumping out tortillas, cattle being herded along cobbled streets, and salsa music wafting through doorways. Rutted roads lead a few kilometers down to the lake (the local bus is just $0.50), where you can swim and eat or drink at the lakeside bars. Back in town, you can enjoy an evening cocktail or beer at one of the simple plaza cafés, or head over to the Posada Suchitlán (www.laposada.com), where a terrace draped in blossoms (and the odd parrot) affords intoxicating views of the sunset and the lake, far below.
The Pacific Coast
El Salvador’s biggest secret is its Pacific Coast, a 300km strip of unspoiled beaches hemmed in by cliffs and mangroves that have so far avoided development. If you have a car you can simply drive along the coast road and stop where you see an attractive spot. Surfing is the main activity here. Visit any beach on the weekend and you’ll see hordes of shaggy-haired, dark tanned locals riding the waves. There’s no need to join them, though; plenty of people just splash around in the waves in between lounging on the sand.
First timers should make for the Costa del Bálsamo, a stretch of coast west of Puerto La Libertad, a coastal town 34km south of San Salvador. Once a major port, there’s little point in hanging around in the town itself, but the nearby beaches are stupendous. Playa El Tunco is the surfer’s favourite, merging into Playa El Zunzal (or Sunzal), another surf mecca but also notable for Café El Sunzal (2389-6020), built into the cliffs overlooking the beach. Come here for the excellent seafood, Salvadoreño cuisine, and birds-eye view of the surfers far below.
The best choice for non-surfers is tranquil Playa El Zonte at km 53, which has a couple of appealing places to stay and another great cliffside restaurant, Costa Brava (2302-6068; www.costabravazonte.com), where you can sip cocktails, share huge dishes of paella, and watch the sun dipping beneath the waves.
Facts about El Salvador
Country Code for El Salvador is (503); there are no area codes.
Where to Sleep:
San Salvador
Real InterContinental San Salvador – The pick of the city’s luxury hotels, with all the usual extras (gym, pool, sauna) and lavish sound-proofed rooms with flat-screen TVs and CD players.
Blvd de los Heroes 544; 2211-3333; www.ichotelsgroup.com
Sheraton San Salvador Presidente Hotel – spacious accommodations, a gracious staff, beautiful pool and decent gym. Privileged location close to the city’s most exclusive stores and restaurants.
Ave. La Revolucion, Colonia San Benito; 2283-4000; www.starwoodhotels.com
Hotel San Mateo – Excellent mid-range option with spotless, modern rooms, free wi-fi and cable TV. They can also organize airport transportation and a range of tours.
Calle Caracas 20, Colonia San Mateo; 2298-3825; www.hotelsanmateo.com
Suchitoto
Los Almendros De San Lorenzo – The top choice in Suchitoto, a gorgeous old hacienda wonderfully restored with exuberant murals, a pool and luxurious suites opening out onto a blossom-filled courtyard.
4a Calle Poniente; 2335-1200; www.hotelsalvador.com
Hotel Las Puertas – Fabulous option right on the main plaza, facing the church – the music can be loud during the day, but things calm down at night when you can enjoy the cool breezes on your balcony. Rooms come with four-poster beds, wood floors and cable TV
2a Ave Norte and Ave 15 de Septiembre (on the plaza); 2393-9200; www.laspuertassuchitoto.com
The Pacific Coast
Casa de Mar, El Sunzal – Best place on the coast, with a choice of several large suites and villas equipped with a/c, dining and living rooms and a wooden deck overlooking the pool and the ocean. Breakfast included.
Km 43 Carretera del Litoral. 2389-6284; www.casademarhotel.com
Horizonte Surf Resort, El Zonte – Great budget option, just off the beach. Small cinder-block chalets with showers and a/c, lush gardens and an in-house bar and café.
Km 53 Carretera del Litoral. 7722-3237. www.horizontesurfresort.com
Where to Eat:
Alo Nuestro – Best place for a splurge in San Salvador, with fine fusion cuisine blending local dishes and ingredients with Western and Asian flavours. Eat inside the cosy dining room on the patio.
Calle La Reforma #225-A, Colonia San Benito; 2279-1920.
Kamakura – Top quality Japanese food. Exquisite sashimi and sushi in authentic Japanese-style rooms, as well as decent tempura and teriyaki.
93 Ave Norte 617, Colonia Escalón; 2263-2401; www.restaurantekamakura.com
Pupusería Nelly’s – You have to try the national dish – pupusa – at least once before leaving El Salvador, and this is a great place to start, with several different flavours as well as tasty tamales and empanadas.
Ave Bernal 210, between Blvd de los Héroes and Blvd Constitución; 2260-0070.
Nightlife:
Club Envy – El Salvador’s glitterati hang out at this two-level dance club. $10 Entrance. Big sound system, global DJs and a packed dance floor on the weekend.
Centro Comercial Multiplaza, Calle El Pedregal and Pan-American Highway; 2243-2576.
La Cueva – Small, casual bar with outdoor seating and a laid-back vibe. Good place to start or end your evening.
Centro Comercial Multiplaza, Calle El Pedregal and Pan-American Highway; 2243-7155.
Zanzibar – Open-air bar with live music, drinks, snacks and dance parties.
Centro Comercial Basilea, Zona Rosa; 2279-0833; www.zanzibar.com.sv
What to See & Do:
Museo de los Tres Poderes del Estado – Calle Rubén Darío, (Plaza Berrios); Mon–Fri 8am–3pm; 2222-9418.
Museo Nacional de Antropología “David J. Guzmán” – Ave La Revolución, Colonia San Benito, in front of the Feria Internacional; Tues–Sun 9am–4pm; www.munaelsalvador.com