Carrying a heavy assortment of colorful accessories, bangles and keepsakes she crosses the time worn street. “Business is business!” rings the anthem from the tiny, animated street vendor. Even at 10 years old, her style is relentless. Her beautiful Indian features break into a smile as if by rote and her pitch continues: “Buy something, lady, take something home for your amiga! Two scarves, 180 quetzals, buy now, lady. Business is business!”
As it turns out, this axiom, straight from the mouths of babes, is the underlying reason Guatemala is coming into its own. The business of tourism has taken a new turn, appealing to the cosmopolitan urban traveler and the naturalist, the history buff and the wellness seeker, the new age enthusiast and the lover of cuisine and culture. Likewise, religious tourism is booming, too. Pilgrimages to the convents and cathedrals countrywide are growing more popular and the fabled Easter week festivals are well attended.
Antigua, Guatemala, the old, beloved, former capital of this small country, is the perfect destination for first-time visitors to explore the many riches Guatemala has to share. With three volcanoes providing a panoramic backdrop, this colonial city of 41,000 has the honor of being a UNESCO world heritage site. Its’ cobblestone streets and colonial architecture have been preserved since 1979 and recognized as a “Heritage of Humanity” site, one of several within the country.
No stranger to natural disaster, it was the victim of an earthquake in 1541. The towering Volcano Agua was the first to explode. In an onslaught of mud and mess, the city was devastated. Many earthquakes would shape its history but regardless Antigua continued to grow, its population reaching near 60,000 at its peak by the mid-18th century. The Viceroyalty of New Spain included what we now recognize as Mexico and the entire expanse of Central America, and Antigua was then the capital of the Audencia de Guatemala, under this jurisdiction. After more earthquakes in the late 1700’s and its heydey destroyed, Antigua was in ruins, and the capital was moved to Guatemala City. Today it is the capital of Sacatepequez, one of 22 departments or regions that comprise the whole of Guatemala. Bordered by Mexico to the north and west, Belize and the Caribbean Sea to the east, and the Pacific to the south, Antigua is a stone’s throw from the urban metropolis of today’s capital, Guatemala City, but centuries away in mood and pace.
Having always been a valued center for the arts, to this day many artisans make their homes here. This becomes obvious when one tours the city’s quaint shops and textile outposts. Restoration and reinvention together revived the town in the mid 19th century and the surrounding verdant hills gave the coffee business an illustrious beginning here, which to this day contributes to its prosperity. When Antigua was declared a national monument in 1979, its rich culture and archeological gems were insured protection so that today generations going forward can experience its magic.
Guatemala City’s La Aurora International Airport is a short 28 miles away, and the urban chaos there eases into old tradition as one rolls into the small, graceful town of Antigua. In addition to Agua Volcano, at 12,325 ft., the even larger Acatenango Volcano and the active Volcano Fuego are rooted to the west, casting a beguiling light over this colorful city of courtyards. Behind brightly painted doors and walled entrances, inviting cafes, inns, and shops beckon, devoid of commercial advertising. With soaring archways, churches steeped in antiquity and imposing monuments, the bougainvillea-lined streets leading to the magnificent fountain, Las Sirenas, charm the first-time visitor.
Morning coffee sweetened with an artist’s palette of colors is available to the early riser sitting alongside Parque Central. The measured cadence of Las Sirenas provides a subtle rhythm for women making a vibrant splash strolling the bustling plaza, Parque Centralin, their traditional Mayan huipiles (blouses). The Palacio del Ayuntmiento standing on the north side offers scenic and even spellbinding vistas of the Cathedral de Santiago to the east and the Agua Volcano beyond from its arched balconies. The Palacio de Capitanes Generales is a spectacular building, built in 1558. It offers yet another great photo opportunity with its repetitive arches, on the south side of the Parque Central. In the Palacio, you can locate the INGUAT offices for tourism, should you require any help in making your way around, or require the services of the policia. Here you will also find the Department of Sacatepequez headquarters, the state or department in which Antigua is located.
The best way to appreciate Antigua and gain insight into its illustrious history is to take an informed walking tour with a knowledgeable guide. Sacbe Travel’s Rene Meier took our group on a fascinating itinerary that began with the Arco de Catalina, Antigua’s most famous landmark. Built in 1613, it provided a shielded pathway for the Capuchin nuns to cross the street (over and above it), separating them from society, in accordance with their strict rules of their order. Next stop was the Cathedral de Santiago which houses the remains of Don Pedro de Alvarado, conqueror of Guatemala, national figure and hero. Here also is the sculpted black Christ statue, visited by thousands. Hermando Pedro, Central America’s beloved saint is entombed at the church of San Francisco El Grande. Outside the church, small wax candles in the shape of a heart, an arm, a leg, can be purchased. A prayer to heal your particular ailment is then offered at the tomb of Santo Pedro, which adorns the chapel.
The faithful expression of gratitude in advance of received good fortune and healing is yet another of Antigua’s graceful traditions. Candles melt in the silence of thankfulness, while the padre strides slowly in the plaza outside the church, offering words of solace for a few quetzals. I fell in love with Antigua’s spirituality and the opportunity to spend time there was a moving experience for me. But Antigua is just a primer for the exploration of the archeological, geological and agricultural treasures next on our itinerary.
One exceptional excursion is to visit the Finca Filadelphia, a coffee plantation owned by the Dalton family and managed by the dashing Paul Quirin, who invited our party in for a coffee cupping session. There we learned about the nuances of Antiguan beans – the different grades and acidity levels – and this was followed by an aromatic tasting. The café is a perfect spot to enjoy a mocha latte carefully made with their best blend and enjoy the views of the green hills beyond.
Within the Finca (farm) itself, Antigua Canopy Tours operates a first rate zip-line experience that will turn a nervous first-timer into an elated beginner, gliding over approximately eight well-planned and expertly guided zips thru the canopied forest with outstanding views. Back on ground Chef Armando Caceres, employing a secret recipe, offered a sampling of the national dish, Pepian, a spicy beef stew with vegetables using the chilies and spices of the region. Delicioso! This was a pepian to which all others were compared for the duration of the trip.
One simply cannot leave Antigua empty-handed and after a pleasant night’s rest at the Villa Colonial, a short distance from the town’s center, it was time to do a little shopping. Art galleries abound in Antigua but textiles of the indigenous Mayan weavers make for a more thoughtful gift. The Mercado de Artesanias offered souvenirs, handicrafts, and my favorite take-along, small notebooks covered in colorful Guatemalan fabric. La Antigua Galeria de Arte displayed a rotating presentation of both international and local artists. Guatemala is home to a rare and special black jade, and one can visit a jade ‘factory’ where jade and silver settings are prepared for classically designed rings, bracelets and pendants. The eastern quarries of Guatemala are the source for the jade here, available in several different shades of emerald green and even lilac and yellow. My favorite shop, Nim Po’t, had it all: popular religious art, masks, leather goods like belts and bags and home furnishings, all very affordable. Upscale Etnika offered jewelry to die for and unique clothing with Indian and Guatemalan influences.
Dining in Antigua is an auspicious occasion at the romantic Casa de Santo Domingo Restaurante where the beguiling ambience backdrops an eclectic menu, offering perfectly grilled steaks and Guatemalan specialties finished off with a beautiful crème brulee. Large formal candelabras softly lighting each table provided a memorable snapshot on that cool evening and the elegant cuisine and excellent service was a precursor to a nightcap with live jazz at newbie Ocelot. Our walk back to our habitacion in the mellow moonlight was the ending of a perfect night in beautiful surroundings. Antigua won my heart.
Truly a travelers dream, Antigua is a wonderful introduction for the novice exploring this diverse country. Guatemala invites, entertains, educates and informs: it opens the palate and the eyes, indeed, all the senses, as a gateway to the ancient Mayan civilizations which came before us, supported by the mythology of the creation of the world explained in the Popol Vuh. The lineage of the K’iche’ kingdom, the Mayan antiquities of Peten, the natural phenomenon of the explorable Volcan Pacaya, the villages of indigenous artisans weaving their colorful history into the present – all these are thankfully preserved for all who come in curiosity.
One trip to Guatemala is an awakening and I’m certain that I will return many times to explore more – the regions of the northern highlands and back to Antigua for a full Spanish lesson immersion hosted by a local family. Semuc Champey and the Rio Dulce and Rio Cahabon call to me to return for unspoiled outdoor adventure. The Guatemalan flag honoring the quetzal bird of Coban waves in the breeze of my memories. The markets of Chichicastenango, the deep azure water of Lake Atitlan and the mystical events surrounding the year 2012 and the end of the Mayan calendar are among the Guatemalan treats waiting to savored. In my mind, Antigua is the dessert before the feast.
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Where to Stay
Casa Santo Domingo– magnificent slumber spot, offering traditional to deluxe accommodations encircled by the former monastery’s 18th century stone walls. Sculpture, art, and 400 years of history, plus modern 5-star amenities make this a must for all history buffs, or those wishing to create their own: 3a. Calle Oriente No. 28,
Finca Filadelphia – wake up and smell the coffee in 3 levels of rooms (20 total) and suites at this comfortable but richly designed 5-star plantation boutique and spa. Every comfort is provided here with exceptional attention to detail. Plantation tours and cupping sessions featuring R. Dalton coffee lend credence to the idea that not all coffees are equal. A lovely pool, verdant mountains, superb coffees, and peaceful elegance beckon the connoisseur; just beyond Antigua. Carretera San Felipe a Jocotenango, Antigua Guatemala 03001,
Villa Colonial – enjoy your stay in a small colonial village. Cobblestone streets surround the accommodations of this 50-room inn. A white-glove restaurant overlooks the window-boxed rooms, overflowing with bougainvillea; picturesque and old-world. Alameda del Calvario #28, www.villasdeguatemala.com
Where to Eat
La Fonda de la Calle Real – one of 3 locations, this is a must visit in Antigua, serving Guatemalan specialties featuring the region’s peppers and ground spices and celebrating Guatemala’s heritage with its colorful ambience. Just wonderful! 3a Calle Poniente #7; 5a Avenida Norte#5. www.lafondadelacallereal.com
Ocelot Bar Restaurante – proprietor Shaun Paul Griffith’s cool and cozy bar is host to hot jazz and blues in addition to great eats and cocktails. Open late. A great spot for a pre- or post-dinner rendezvous. 4ta Av. Norte #3, Sacatepéquez , Antigua Guatemala, ½ blk south of Parque Central. Tel: (005)0378321339
Pergaminos – Chef Armando Caceres showcases a fusion-based international menu that is eclectic, offering the best pepian in town. A popular Sunday Brunch is a real crowd pleaser. 150 meters norte de la Iglesia de San Felipe de Jesus, Antigua, Sacatepequez, GT (502) 7728-0800, www.filadelfiaresort.com/en
Fridas Antigua – small, cute and cozy, Frida’s serves primo Mexican in an atmospheric setting. Try the mango chicken, or enchiladas verde. The best lime daiquiris! 5a, No 29, Calle de Arco, (502) 7832-1296, www.lasfridas.com
What to See and Do
Antigua Canopy Tours – expertly guided, this scenic zip-line safely glides over the panoramic views offered high in the hills of the Filadelphia Coffee Plantation. Even first-timers shout with glee. 500 feet north from de la Iglesia de San Felipe de Jesus, Jocotenango, Sacatepequez, (502) 4010- 6592, www.antiguacanopytours.com
Antigua City Tours – Sacbe Travel’s Rene Meier, a studied historian and lover of Antigua is a premiere guide, touring Guatemala and Central America destinations. His tour will take you to the Capuchinas convent, San Francisco Church and Convent, La Merced Church and Convent, St. Joseph’s Cathedral and much more. Kind and courteous, his knowledge of the Maya Mundo and its antiquities engages and educates. (+502) 7832-1023 www.sacbe.info
Promenade of the Museums – wind your way through seven museums housing what was once the church and convent of Santo Domingo. Mystically enchanting. Hotel de Santo Domingo, www.casasantodomingo.com.gt
Where to Shop
Local Market and Mercado de Artesanias – fresh produce and colorful traditional costumes invite photographers to click away upon visiting the busy local mercado; the artists’ market provides an opportunity for souvenir handicrafts from local artists. Near Calzada Santa Lucia.
Nim Po’t – massive selection of masks, textiles, leather goods and religious art. 5a Avenida Norte #29, www.nimpot.com
Etnika – Indian inspired high-end clothing, textiles, silver and gemstone jewelry. 5a Ave Norte 318, Calle de Arco.
Casa del Jade – every variety of jade and an in-shop silver ‘factory’. 4a Calle Oriente #10, www.lacasadeljade.com