Off the Beaten Track
Enough can’t be said about Florence. The birthplace of the Renaissance and home of historical heavy hitters such as Galileo, Dante and Machiavelli, the city’s cultural legacy makes it an awe inspiring must see for all travelers. While walking through the historic center, it’s obvious that despite the years that have passed since its’ dominance as the world’s cultural capital, a lasting impact remains beautifully preserved against an ever modernizing landscape. From the first sight of the Duomo to the view from the Ponte Vecchio Bridge over the Arno, it’s easy to see that Florence has a wow factor that’s a magnet for visitors year after year.
When planning a Florence itinerary, you are immediately faced with the problem of how to visit everything. Michelangelo’s David and the Uffizi’s impressive collection of Botticelli and Da Vinci masterpieces are at the top of the list for museum-goers, and the spectacular views from the top of the Duomo and Campanile are thrilling. For those interested in the majesty of de Medici life, the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens are a required stop. Add in meals at the incredible restaurants and trattorie (not to mention gelato stops) and it can be pretty frustrating how quickly your time has passed in this small Tuscan city.
Despite the legacy of these well-known sights, there are a number of Florentine landmarks off the beaten track that are equally deserving of attention. Ever heard of San Miniato al Monte? Many tour buses stop at Piazzale Michelangelo (the one with the fake David) for the breathtaking views over the city, but just further up the hill on the footpaths is the beautiful San Miniato church, built during the 11th century in the Tuscan Romanesque style. This quiet church with an adjoining monastery sits atop one of the highest points in the city and the serene atmosphere surrounding it is especially welcoming after elbowing with the bustling crowds in the churches below.
Another church not usually frequented by tourists is the understated Santa Maria del Carmine. Located in Florence’s Oltrarno district, it’s well worth a stop for its beautiful interior as well as the sights across the Arno on the south side of Florence. Santa Maria has undergone numerous renovations since its construction in the 13th century, transitioning from Romanesque-Gothic to Baroque in the 1700’s then to Rococo a decade later. Its Brancacci Chapel is home to some of Masaccio’s most famous frescoes, including Expulsion from Paradise – a work that almost gruesomely captures Adam and Eve’s torment after being asked to leave paradise. Fun Fact: The chapel is also the site where Michelangelo had his nose broken by Torrigiano, after boasting that he was capable of creating better works than the chapel’s artists.
What’s amazing about Florence is how much historical beauty can turn up in even the most unsuspecting places. The Bargello museum, housed in a tower that was once a prison, has a beautiful inner courtyard and collection of sculptures and bronze works from the likes of Donatello, Michelangelo and Cellini. It is most famously known for Donatello’s bronze sculpture of David – a playful depiction of David holding a sword and wearing nothing but a hat and boots, quite the contrast to Michelangelo’s David in the Galleria dell’accademia.
For summer visitors who want to flee the crowds, Forte di Belvedere is a beautiful vantage point overlooking the city. Built by one of the Medicis in the 16th century to protect the city, the fortress is now open to visitors but is best visited on a summer night. Savor the view from the villa terrace with a glass of wine during the rotating schedule of cultural events, all the while enjoying the spectacularly lit city center and Tuscan hills beyond.
But a trip to Florence shouldn’t end with just the highlights – its beauty and history is present in even the lesser known streets and landmarks. For travelers who may have the leeway to return, veering off the beaten track will solidify Florence as one of Europe’s most memorable destinations.
Where to Stay
Hotel Porta Rossa – a historic hotel dating back to the 12th century, refurbished with modern amenities, and serving a delicious breakfast. Within walking distance from most tourist attractions. Rooms starting at €150. Via Porta Rossa 19, 50123, Florence, Italy; 39 055 287 551.
Hotel Casci – a friendly, family run hotel in Florence’s city center located on one of the main roads, Via Cavour. Close to the Piazza San Marco and the Palazzo Medici Riccardi. Doubles from €60. Via Camillo Cavour 13, 50129, Florence, Italy; 39 055 211 686; www.hotelcasci.com
Hotel Dali – close proximity to the Duomo, with rooms ranging from €40-80. Via dell’Oriuolo 17, Florence, Italy; 39 055 234 0706; www.hoteldali.com
Where to Eat and Drink
Il Latini – attentive service and friendly ambience, complete with hams hanging from the ceiling. Open Tuesday – Sunday. Lunch: 12:30 PM – 2:30 PM, Dinner: 7:30 – 10:30 PM. Via dei Palchetti, 6r. (Palazzo Rucellai), Florence, Italy; 39 055 210 916; www.illatini.com
Trattoria Sostanza (Il Troia) – a no-frills trattoria located near Piazza Santa Maria Novella with communal seating. Try the bistecca fiorentina or petti di pollo al burro (chicken cooked in butter). Open only on weekdays from 12 PM – 2:15 PM lunch and 7:30 PM – 9:45 PM dinner. Via Porcellana 25/r., 50123, Florence, Italy; 39 055 212 691
Trattoria La Casalinga – La Casalinga (meaning housewife) specializes in classic Tuscan dishes, such as ribollita and ravioli al sugo di coniglio (rabbit sauce), at inexpensive prices. Closed on Sundays. Via dei Michelozzi 9r, (in Piazza Santo Spirito), 50125, Florence Italy; 39 055 21 86 24; www.trattorialacasalinga.it (website in Italian).
What to See and Do
San Miniato al Monte – One of Florence’s oldest churches, built during the 11th century. Located north of Piazzale Michelangelo, with beautiful views overlooking the city. Via delle Porte Sante 34, 50125, Florence, Italy; 39 055 234 2768
Santa Maria del Carmine – its;’ Brancacci Chapel is home to famous frescoes including Masaccio’s Expulsion from Paradise. Piazza del Carmine 14, 50124, Florence, Italy; 39 055 238 2195
Museo del Bargello – houses works by Donatello, Michelangelo and Cellini, most notably Donatello’s bronze version of David. Via del Proconsolo 4, 50122, Florence, Italy; 39 055 265 4321
Forte di Belvedere – built during the 16th century, with beautiful views of the city center, located in the Oltrarno district. Via di San Leonardo 1, 50125, Florence, Italy; 39 055 23320