In 1988, after having been in business in Ottawa for more than eight years, Eleanor’s Cuisine Française Inc. was sold to M. André Cointreau — president of Europe’s esteemed Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts Institute — to become the organization’s first campus outside of Europe. “We were all wondering, ‘Why would they come to Ottawa?’ We were puzzled. This was huge news,” recalls longtime Ottawa food writer Anne DesBrisay with a laugh when asked about the purchase. “But they made it very clear that they loved the city, the size of it, and, in particular, they loved the bilingual nature.”
No question, news that the world-famous cooking school, originally founded in Paris in 1895, was coming to Canada had the local and national culinary community all abuzz. What’s more, Eleanor Orser of Eleanor’s Cuisine Française Inc. would remain as director of Le Cordon Bleu Ottawa given her status as first ever Canadian to graduate from Le Cordon Bleu Paris in 1979 and her ongoing relationship with the institute.
An Ottawa Citizen article dated June 1, 1988 reads: André Cointreau, president of Le Cordon Bleu, says he chose Ottawa because “it’s culturally interesting and close to Montreal, Toronto, and New York” — cities from which he expects many of the school’s students to come. But the determining factor, he added, was Orser. “I know that Mme. Orser, who will be director of the school, will uphold the standards for which Le Cordon Bleu is noted.”
DesBrisay, who has been covering news of the institute for years, says the school and the accompanying Signatures restaurant are keeping fine French dining alive and well in Canada’s capital city. “The school has turned out, over the years, some really splendid chefs who have gone on to do wonderful things in this town,” she says. “And the restaurant’s Chef Yannick Anton is rock solid. His food is beautiful, stunning, original, and lovely.”
Jantine Van Kregten, Director of Communications for Ottawa Tourism, says that Signatures restaurant is especially popular with the diplomatic community in Ottawa. “As Canada’s capital, we’re home to embassies and high commissions from around the globe, and the private rooms and discreet service at Le Cordon Bleu mean that important diplomatic meetings can be held there without a hiccup,” says Van Kregten.
“Of course, their ‘chapel’ — a private room from the days when the building was a residence — is one of the most romantic places in town. It’s been the scene of more than one proposal!” she says.
With regards to the culinary school itself, Van Kregten continues, “its international appeal has also meant that it attracts students from around the world and while all schools of Le Cordon Bleu teach classic French technique, each school aims to highlight local and regional ingredients, which in Ottawa, means everything from maple syrup to elk to fiddleheads to wild salmon. Many of the students who come to Ottawa fall in love with the city and decide to stay, joining the culinary community by opening their own bakeries or restaurants, or joining an existing team.”
One of those graduates is Venezuela-born Michelle Dahdah, who along with her sister and her sister’s husband, owns the popular Quelque Chose Pâtisserie in Ottawa. “I took the pastry diploma at Le Cordon Bleu Ottawa and I loved it. It was one of the best experiences I’ve ever had. The teachers knew what they were doing and every day you were learning something new, even if you were already experienced. As well, most of my classmates were international students, so I learned about pastries from all over the world,” says Dahdah, adding that her inspiration in the kitchen came from her mother. “My mother taught me everything,” she continues. “My sisters and I always watched her bake. When we grew up she taught us and let us bake whatever we wanted. So long as we cleaned the kitchen.”
Caroline Ngo, who co-owns Ottawa’s Carben Food and Drink with her husband, also studied pastry making at Le Cordon Bleu Ottawa. “I was raised in this city. I initially studied law and economics at university, but it was dryer than I thought it would be. I eventually ended up in Le Cordon Bleu’s pastry program which suited me because I’m a creative person,” says Ngo. “I loved it. I loved going in there, and learning, and bringing home pastries every single day. I always recommend the school to people. When I finished, I got a job right away without any trouble. I went right into pastry and right into restaurants.”
For Ngo, aside from the coursework, the winning part of the program is the chefs: “They are supportive and they know their craft really well. When I see them, they’re still really supportive. It’s cool to be in the same industry as them. We’re like family.”
Meanwhile, Ngo says she’s enjoying being able to flex her creativity in her own restaurant’s kitchen, swapping up Carben Food and Drink’s dessert menu regularly. “I recently made a carrot cake with ground almonds in it, guava and cream cheese. Right now, I’m serving a lemon cake with violet essence, along with blueberries and basil. And I’m planning for an upcoming gingerbread cake, with chamomile honey, bee pollen and persimmons.”
Reflecting on Le Cordon Bleu Ottawa and her years covering Signatures as a food writer, Anne DesBrisay says the restaurant continues “to get people through the door. They’ve tried on different hats over the years, but I feel like they’re settled now. Accessible prices, fine French cuisine and an accessible but nonetheless sophisticated approach.”
Also worth noting, she continues, is the building that currently houses Le Cordon Bleu Ottawa — the charming, restored Munross Mansion, originally built in 1874 by Scottish lumberman James Mather. “It’s an elegant home,” says DesBrisay. “When you go, you dress the part.”
