Musical Experiences to Melt You
Settling into an orchestra seat in a concert hall built in the 1800s is not something we do often in North America. So when the opportunity arose I took it—especially since the hall bore the name of Antonin Dvořák one of the most sublimely talented composers of the entire Romantic period.
One should arrive early for the orchestra in Prague. And, as I’ve learned, one should dress. Although the crowd was mostly local, men were in jackets and ties while the ladies were in all manner of finery. As a traveler, I showed up in khakis and a light sweater; luckily a few younger Czech patrons were also casually dressed. Many people arrived early to enjoy a glass of champagne in a small room off the lobby, to see and be seen.
If you’ve visited Prague then you know it’s a city that abounds with beautiful architecture. Prague was mercifully spared from the bombings that damaged many of Europe’s great cities in the twentieth century and many buildings are hundreds of years old and still in full use. Luckily, there are frequent live performances in magical halls and churches across town that bring equally artistic beauty to your ears.
Dvořák Hall is the city’s premiere performance space and the major venue inside a palatial neo-Renaissance style building called the Rudolfinum. (The building is delightfully named for a former Prince Rudolf but royal history is a topic for another story). The living royalty of the Rudolfinum is the superb Česká filharmonie, aka the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra. Approaching their 115th season, the ensemble is almost as old as their home venue.
Roughly $35 snagged me a seat (I booked before leaving home via their website) to hear an evening of Mozart, Haydn, and Bartok. Unfortunately, Dvořák and the other great Czech composers – Smetana and Jan Novák come to mind – weren’t on the playlist. The orchestra was outstanding and their playing of Bartok’s “Miraculous Mandarin” allowed for inclusion of the hall’s imposing organ which towered behind the orchestra. Hearing European music of this genre in Europe seems to add depth to the experience. (The organ, as it turned out only looked old; it was locally built, amazingly, in 1975 – smack in the middle of the less-than-artistic Communist era).
Including Mozart on the program I thought was appropriate. The master composer may have been from Salzburg but he is practically an honorary Czech having famously stated that the people in Prague understood him. Mozart’s great gift to them was to debut his opera, Don Giovanni, at Prague’s Estates Theatre in 1787. The theatre is still used for operas and other performances and was seen in many of the scenes in Czech director Milos Forman’s 1984 production of Amadeus. Since 2006 travelers who time it right have been able to enjoy Don Giovanni staged at the Estates Theatre. If this is appealing to you, hurry! The production is only slated for performances into December 2011.
Travelers who can’t pre-book tickets to a performance in Dvořák Hall or the Estates Theatre will still find great music accessible across Prague almost every night. I had a free night and a small billboard outside the baroque St. Nicholas Church (one of the few still operating) advertised a program of organ and vocal music for about $20. It was a much more casual affair, staged for tourists, and hardly the quality of the Philharmonic but Czech National Theatre soprano Jana Jonášová, and organist Bohumír Rabas did a wonderful job of bringing the soaring church to life for an hour. Music by both Dvořák and Mozart reminded me that this is a town that loves them almost as much as it loves the glorious buildings where their music is performed.
Info and tickets for the Czech Philharmonic: http://www.ceskafilharmonie.cz/en/index.php
Info and tickets for events at the Estate Theatre: http://www.estatestheatre.cz/
Info for other music and events around Prague: http://www.pragueexperience.com/opera_concerts/opera_concerts.asp
Where to stay:
Hotel Josef – outstanding, ultra-modern property (in an old building) near Old Town Square with great breakfast; Rybná 20, 110 00 Prague 1, Phone: +420 221 700 111; www.hoteljosef.com
Hotel Icon – unique blend of old and new with handmade, all natural mattresses, made of horsehair by Hästens of Sweden; near Wenceslas Square, V Jámě 6, 110 00 Prague 1, +420 221 634 100; www.iconhotel.eu
Where to Eat:
Restaurant U Pinkasu – outstanding traditional Czech food and beer. www.upinkasu.com
Cafe Cafe – if you’re young and hip in Prague, you hang out here. And if you’re old and love a good coffee and amazing cakes, you hang out here too. www.cafe-cafe.cz
Must Sees
Mucha Museum – you know the work of this Czech Art Nouveau master the moment you see it. His grand collection in Prague is astonishing. http://mucha.tyden.cz/index.phtml?S=home&Lang=EN
DOX Center for Contemporary Art – the old and artistic things you see in Prague were once new. This excellent museum showcases the best in modern Czech artistry. www.doxprague.org
Museum of Cubism – the Cubist genre of the early 20th century started in Prague, and still seems amazingly current. Even if you don’t visit the museum, seeing its’ Cubist building is worthwhile, and the gift store while expensive is very tempting. http://www.prague-museums.com/house_black_madonna.shtml
Buddha Bar Hotel – this global hipster restaurant brand chose Prague for their first foray into lodging; near Old Town Square. Jakubská 649/8, CZ – 110 00 Prague, Phone +420 221 776 300; www.buddhabarhotelprague.com