San Antonio, Texas

If an artist tried to capture the city of San Antonio with a single brushstroke, she would be remiss. This is a Texas town that proudly showcases a blend of Southern comfort, Wild West bravado and Mexican flair.  A logical first step to uncovering the many layers of this thriving metropolis is to stroll the iconic River Walk (and if you happen to be visiting in the beginning of January, through the burgeoning Cocktail Conference). Stepping onto its cobblestoned surface, you’re within the city’s eclectic core and immersed in its rich history and activity.  Running one story beneath and alongside the city’s eponymous river for approximately two miles of downtown streets and miles beyond, the notorious network additionally connects many of San Antonio’s well known and not to be missed back-in-the-day structures. Enveloped by a tropical backdrop of cypress and palms, the miles of walkways and stairways are scattered with al fresco eateries, boutique hotels and specialty shops and often serenaded by the music of mariachis.  A magnet for millions, it calls every tourist, though my favorite time to explore it is early morning, when the setting alongside the water is serene. If you’re thinking of spending some time here, take a walk with me to discover what I did.

The Alamo – Known as Mission San Antonio de Valero and established in 1718 as the city’s first mission, the initial reaction to this landmark is surprise at its diminutive size.  Though it’s small, the plaque at the entrance underscores its revered status: “Be silent friend. Here heroes died to blaze a trail for other men.”  Known for such distinguished warriors as Jim Bowie, William B. Travis and Davy Crockett, the 4.2-acre complex is where a small band of Texans pushed back the massive army of Mexico’s General Santa Anna for almost two weeks.  Though the outcome was the conquest of these 189 defenders, the Alamo represents courage and sacrifice in the pursuit of freedom.  Showcasing nearly 300 years of Texas history, the historic attraction illuminates the past—from its frequent reenactments to the building’s visible scars from fired cannon balls and discharged bullets.

La Villita – Located on the south bank of the San Antonio River, restoration has transformed this late-1700s Alamo garrison to a thriving arts village.  Home to galleries, specialty shops and tucked-away dining spots, history surrounds you in this “little village.”

HemisFair Park – A short walk from the river and at the city’s center is this urban park.  Built for the 1968 World’s Fair, its landscaped grounds, cascading waterfalls and the presence of both the Institute of Texan Cultures and the Instituto Cultural Mexicano provide something for everyone. Most importantly, this is a back-into-nature escape from the bustle of a busy city.  The park’s most symbolic remnant of the global event is the 750-foot tall Tower of the Americas and its 4D-theater ride with high-above-the-city views.

Mission Reach – This eight-mile stretch of the San Antonio River connects the River Walk to Missions Concepción, San José, San Juan Capistrano and Espada – the four Spanish missions constructed in the 1700s and situated every three miles downriver.  Nominated for UNESCO World Heritage status along with the Alamo, these adobe and stone structures are cherished for their architectural embellishments such as Mission San José’s rose window and Mission Concepción’s perfectly preserved frescos.  South from downtown, assorted hiking and biking trails along the river connect them to the city center.

Rio San Antonio Cruise’s 45-minute boat ride provides a relaxing overview of the River Walk, along with colorful anecdotes.  As our captain proclaimed in an accent so thick it seemed there was an additional syllable attached to each word: “Being a Texan, I’ll be able to tell you the truth, or close to it.”  Another option is the Rio Taxi and its 39 river stops.

Known for its “mi casa es su casa” attitude, hospitality reigns in this city set on Texas’ most historic stage.  True, the River Walk is where first-timers are initiated and repeaters return, but an insider’s tour of San Antonio takes you beyond the city’s famous walk and waterway.

Cue the cuisine.  “Of all of the things happening here, the culinary scene is the most amazing,” shared a long-time resident when quizzed about his city’s lesser known side.  In the past, a Google Search for keywords like “San Antonio” and “eateries” would have produced names of barbecue stands and Mexican taquerías, for it wasn’t long ago that all that was expected from a table in this town was for the salsa to be hot and the beer to be cold.  In fairness, San Antonio was previously recognized for tasty Tex-Mex, slow-smoked barbecue and old-world German fare (a little-known byproduct of the city’s 19^th-century German settlers).  But beyond this trio, the offerings were limited.

Fast forward to present day San Antonio, a city that serves up a setting and cuisine best described as authentic and addictive.  Some say it began with the Culinary Institute of America’s selection of San Antonio as the site of the prestigious establishment’s third campus (following Hyde Park, NY and Napa) and its graduates’ impact on the local food scene.  Located in the former Pearl Brewery, now a 22 acre complex known as Pearl, the location is also the address of 12 retailers, 12 restaurants and a farmer’s market.  Though beer may have been brewed there from the 1800s to 1999 and its location defined as “a questionable part of town,” it’s now a desirable address and the complex is considered a 21^st century culinary gathering place.

Here’s only a small part of Pearl’s gastronomic lineup:  Two-time James Beard Award nominee, Chef Andrew Weissman, heads the Italian eatery, Il Sogno Osteria.  In Pearl’s administration building (circa 1904) is Cured, a creation of Chef Steve McHugh, a“gastropub with a Hill Country feel” and featuring cured meats.  ‘Boiler House Texas Grill and Wine Garden’ is a Lone Star state original that focuses on Texas ranch style grilling.  And Blue Box is a self-described “swanky, hip cocktail bar.” But San Antonio’s epicurean landscape is not exclusive to Pearl.  Blessed with a crew of über-talented chefs turning out cutting edge cuisine, favorite spots spill over the city.

Jason Dady is a local celeb chef with eateries such as Tre Trattoria, an Italian restaurant whose focus is “fresh;” Two Bros. BBQ Market described as “true Texas pit-to-table” barbecue, and DUK (acronym for Dady’s Underground Kitchen) Truck, an on-wheels cookhouse that roves San Antonio and features an ever evolving gourmet menu.  When detailing San Antonio’s lively food scene, homage must be paid to Chef Johnny Hernandez, a native San Antonian and graduate of New York’s CIA. Inspired by his restaurateur father and his own travels throughout Mexico, Chef Johnny’s take on Mexican food is entrenched in tradition. His restaurants are La Gloria, inspired by street foods from the interior of Mexico; Fruteria-Botanero which reflects the country’s fruit stands; and El Machito, which features “all things meat,” then there’s his monthly barbacoa brunch at Casa Hernán, his urban hacienda home, always a sold-out affair.

New on the scene but notably created by award-winning Stephan Pyles in collaboration with Executive Chef Mike Collins, Éilan Hotel’s flagship restaurant, Sustenio, showcases modern Mediterranean cuisine alongside reinventions of Texas classics (e.g. a coriander and cardamom cured local lamb loin).  Not to be missed is the bar’s signature cocktail – a passion chili margarita.  Then there’s La Fogata, the town’s 36-year-old mainstay, said to mix San Antonio’s best margarita and known for its who’s who list of patrons, from ex-presidents to famous celebrities.

Decorated year-round with Christmas lights and open 24/7, Mi Tierra is a downtown institution that began as a three-table café in 1941.  Featured on the Food Channel, Taco Taco Café has an established foodie following and a reputation for its puffy taco, said to be the city’s tastiest.  And complementing all of the above is a variety of Texas craft beers, wines and spirits such as Enchanted Rock Vodka, an ultra-premium selection from Rebecca Creek Distillery, South Texas’ first such facility.

When I think of San Antonio, I hear it first and then I taste it. “Remember the Alamo!” is a frequent mantra heard in reference to this city at the center of big, bold, beautiful Texas.  Home to five-time NBA champs and the San Antonio Spurs, it’s not infrequent that cheers echo from the team’s AT&T Center.  And it’s a rowdy time when the city hosts San Antonio Stock Show & Rodeo, one of the city’s largest events.  But it’s the aromas emitting from autumn’s Oktoberfest, April’s Festival and May’s Culinaria that best define San Antonio and its arrival as a multi-layered, multi-cultural city.

*San Antonio is Texas’ second largest city and the nation’s seventh in size, but its vibe is deceptively cozy and unabashedly romantic, with a Hispanic flair that only adds to its appealing mystique.  The allure of San Antonio is in no small part due to its lovely, winding downtown river and its adjacent walkway; a wonderful way to explore the city is from the river banks or along its waterway.

www.visitsanantonio.com

The area code for San Antonio is 210.