Siem Reap, Cambodia

“Beyond Angkor Wat”

No trip to Southeast Asia is truly a trip without a visit to Cambodia, particularly to Siem Reap, home of the magnificent and awe-inspiring Angkor Wat temples. Not only have these UNESCO world heritage sites outlasted monsoon rains, various wars and the Khmer Rouge regime, they continue to still inspire “oh my God”s with their architectural feats and magnificent majesty.

A $40 three-day pass for Angkor Wat may seem steep, but the investment is worth every last cent. The Angkor Wat site is home to dozens of temples, built over centuries, and each one is a site to behold. Get a guide—a must—by either arranging it at your hotel or picking a friendly face in the crowds at the entrance. (Guides must be accredited and wear uniforms, so don’t be fooled by a smiling man in a faux Abercrombie & Fitch tee shirt offering you a tour for $5.) Take your time, as it can be overwhelming. Rushing through the sites will only exhaust you from the visual overload, not to mention the relentless heat. Sunrise at the main temple is a given; the colors of the sky change drastically, turning orange and red and pink, and the reflection of the jungles on the surrounding lake has brought grown men to tears. Bring a hankie and a strong cup of coffee.

As is usual in any developing country, beggars and vendors are relentless, and often times they are ragamuffin children, pedaling souvenirs, books, and trinkets. While it seems callous to ignore them or brush them off with a flick of your hand—particularly when they are speaking perfect English to you and can recite the capital of every country in the world—keep in mind that these children are often forced to work by abusive parents or “agents”, who push them out on the street, keeping them from school, sleep and regular meals. Resist their cries and give to a local charity directly.  Located in town near the Night Market, the ConCERT (Connecting Communities, Environment & Responsible Tourism) center can offers visitors information on how to help the needy kids of Siem Reap by accepting donations—monetary and otherwise—to ensure your aid gets into the right hands. Outside of the temples, Siem Reap is full of other diversions and interesting things to do. Cambodia has an emerging art scene, and the hub of the activity is in Siem Reap. Galleries are popping up everywhere, offering an anecdote to the trite—and often “made in Thailand”—souvenirs that are destined for the back of the closet once home. Locals and expats alike are creating beautiful, unusual and covetable pieces, perfect for gifts or yourself. The FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club) is the perfect place to start. Part hotel, part spa, part gallery, part chic shopping mecca, the FCC sits on the banks of the river that divides town. Marvel at John McDermott’s oversized photographs of Angkor Wat; his black and white and sepia tone prints invoke Ansel Adams’ work at El Capitan. Saunter upstairs to the fan-cooled bar and pretend you are Anderson Cooper, as you rub elbows with various international journalists. The Jasmine boutique offers beautiful, handmade silk dresses and accessories, ready for a party in any city around the world.

Carnets d’Asie is another gallery not to be missed. Owned by a French couple, the gallery offers clothing, home furnishings and objects d’art that inspire awe. Working with local artists around Cambodia, the couple has amassed a plethora of unique, colorful and interesting pieces that will see you parting with your credit card quickly.

Off the beaten path is a new gallery, Wat Kandal Gallery, featuring owner Jean-Pierre Obriot’s stunning works depicting the serenity and simplicity of Buddhism.  Collages, mobiles, paintings and sculptures reflect the true essence of Cambodian life.

Hotel De La Paix, one of the chicest and most expensive hotels in Siem Reap, has monthly exhibits under the soaring ceiling of the street level lounge bar. Well curated and international in its standards, these shows are open to all and not to be missed.Angkor National Museum is a newly erected, air conditioned museum displaying centuries of Cambodian artifacts, artwork and religious icons. The stunning room of “1000 Buddhas” is a sight to behold and simply unforgettable.

Food in Cambodia is a sensory overload. Colors, flavors and smells you’ve never experienced at home are on display here in droves. Khmer food is at once spicy and sweet, and vegetarian friendly. Cambodia may have been emancipated from France in 1953, but the legacy of French food still hangs on and is often fused with local fare. Baguettes are served with local soups; duck/foie gras can be had at any fine restaurant. The best local restaurant—arguably the tastiest Khmer food in Cambodia—is at Khmer Kitchen, which offers two outposts in the Old Market area, due to popular demand. Dip into the pumpkin soup and be prepared to swoon. Café Sophea, mysteriously nestled in the jungle across from the entrance to Angkor Wat, is owned by a Frenchman—quite a character, straight from an obscure French film– who has lived in Cambodia for decades. The foie gras and grilled steak can easily compete with the better restaurants of Paris. Samot, on The Alley Street, offers a different menu every day, based on market finds. Innovative, chic, sexy and delicious, French owner/chef Patrick combines new and unusual flavors to make his restaurant one of Siem Reap’s standouts. For those who want to bring the tastes of Cambodia home, The River Garden Guesthouse, owned by a former high-class caterer in Australia, offers cooking classes in the tropical wonder of this romantic hotel. Cheekily named “Cooks in Tuk-Tuks”, the class will teach you enough to dazzle your friends back home at a Khmer-themed dinner party. Shopping in Siem Reap can be trying, but bargaining at the markets is fun and a true experience. Old Market is the best market in town; teeming with fresh veggies, fruits, still flip-flopping fish, house wares, beauty shops, souvenir stalls, fabric booths, used clothing stands and more, the market is not for the faint of heart. The general rule of thumb is to offer only what you feel something is worth—there is no “right price”. Be fair, stay cool and be warm. Being cheap will get you nowhere fast.

A quickly emerging narrow little lane, aptly called The Alley, is just round the corner from Old Market. Wanderlust, a shop owned by an American ex-pat, housed in a 1929 French colonial house straight from the film Indochine, offers locally made, Western style modern clothing, accessories and jewelry.

Artisans d’Angkor is a unique opportunity to buy silk goods, sculptures, paintings and objets d’art straight from the artists themselves. Housed approx 10km out of Siem Reap—a quick little tuk-tuk ride away—you can watch silk being spun, Buddha being carved from wood, paintings being done by the deaf. Then go to the gift shop and purchase a handmade silk fringed scarf—very very chic– that will look as beautiful on a stroll down the streets of St Moritz as it will keeping the chill away in St Bart’s.

There are more hotels in Siem Reap than one can count on a hundred hands. Steer clear of the backpacker guesthouses, knowing that for $40 a night you can find clean comfortable surroundings. In the mid-tier range, The Soria Moria, on Wat Bo Road, offers Scandinavian simplicity, a rooftop bar, WiFi and an ample, tasty breakfast included in their nightly price. The Golden Banana, nestled amidst the jungle on the outskirts of town, is a gorgeous gay-friendly hotel with beautiful rooms, serene comforts and a spectacular staff. On the high end is the historic Raffles Grand Hotel, where luminaries like Somerset Maugham and Jackie Kennedy have stayed and perhaps sipped Singapore Slings at the Celebrity Bar. Built in 1929, the old world charm has been lovingly maintained and restored, down to the original cage elevator. The over-the-top and devastatingly minimalist chicness of the Amansara will set you back some serious cash, but isn’t having your own private swimming pool and being picked up in a vintage Mercedes worth the dough?

Leaving Siem Reap without indulging in the luxury of a massage—at a fraction of the cost you’d pay at home—is nearly sacrilegious. The Frangipani, owned by two Thai sisters, is a temple of heaven. Each treatment will leave you begging for more.

Useful Information: The country code is 855.
The accepted currency in Cambodia is US dollars. Cambodian currency is riel, although the only time you will receive it or use it is to make change. ATMs are widely available in Cambodia and will dispense US currency. Most local cafes and small guesthouses do not accept credit cards, and even in the larger hotels, American Express is frequently not accepted. Stick with MasterCard and Visa.
A $20 entrance visa will need to be purchased upon your arrival in Cambodia. Do not waste money getting it at home before your trip; you will spend much more than this, and getting it at Arrivals takes about 10 minutes. A $25 departure tax is required when leaving Cambodia.
Shots and other medical precautions are not required to visit Cambodia. Siem Reap is malaria free; however, if you do choose to go off the beaten path, you may wish to consult your doctor before arriving in Cambodia. Bring along some extra medicine, just in case, like Immodium and the like, however, most everything is available at the multiples of pharmacies (Western and Khmer).