Stockholm Drinking and Dining

With pristine seafood plucked from glistening seas, sustainably raised meats and a newfound devotion to seasonal produce, modern Swedish cooking has come a long way from meatballs and pickled herring. The food scene hasn’t yet made the city a must visit like Copenhagen, but chefs are carving out their own niche, especially in bustling Stockholm.

Truth be told, at first glance, the city presents a bit of a staid façade and the culinary scene can appear understated as is the Swedish way. But the ingredients and techniques will be impeccable, service polished and welcoming, and with the recent strength of the dollar, restaurant dining is no longer prohibitively expensive.

Prinsen exemplifies the classic cooking of the European brasserie, its menu complemented by an extensive wine list and a beautiful dining room lined with sketches, portraits and paintings by the many artists who’ve passed through its doors. Better yet, grab a curbside table for lunch to savor those ever so short Swedish summers. Here is where your rolls arrive at the table speared on a spike accompanied by creamy fresh butter, served by a waiter who defines old school. Ours had traveled around the world on ships including a yacht that was anchored for a time in New York City. Dig into Swedish meatballs, soft bite size wonders bathed in a tangy cream broth, or minced veal topped with lingonberries. And yes, there will be more lingonberries.

Matbaren, one of two restaurants from top toque Mathias Dahlgren in the Grand Hotel, brings touches of whimsy to casual bistro fare. As with the rest of the town’s top spots, the menu changes frequently with the seasons and availability of ingredients. Both the beef tartare and fresh fish we sampled were flawless. If they have the sashimi of salmon and venison, order it. This surprising combination, topped with avocado for a California touch, was so delicious we ordered another round. The wine list is similarly adventurous but if you’re into more classic labels, ask for the Grand Hotel’s list, which is extensive. And if you’re looking to splurge while in town, across the lobby is the upscale Matsalen, a dining room with a Michelin-style tasting menu where guests are greeted with Champagne and led through the kitchen to meet the staff who will be cooking for them. Tucked into the corner of the room, Matbordet offers dining at a chef’s counter five nights a week.

The restaurant at the SpiritMuseum on Djurgården Island features a chef recently returned from France and a menu full of fresh, locally sourced produce, meat and seafood paired with a natural wines and Swedish microbrews. While the museum provides an insightful setting for the history of Swedish spirits, not to mention an engaging look at Absolut’s contributions to the art scene, the restaurant truly stands on its own as a destination. A summery soup with oysters, peas and salicorn, essentially green beans of the sea, brimmed with flavor, while succulent lamb from Skane, a culinarily rich region in southern Sweden, was paired with earthy beets and chard. Afterwards, a visit to the museum is in order. Just a bit of advice – don’t bother springing for the sensory package that accompanies the main exhibition as it doesn’t add much to the experience.

Oaxen Slip and its more upscale Michelin-starred sister Oaxen Krog occupy a building at the other end of Djurgården. The interior of the more casual Slip hearkens to a nautical past with a long boat suspended from the ceiling, while the outdoor patio provides a picturesque view of the neighboring island of Beckholmen. It was at Slip that we also experienced the most patient service in the history of restaurants, with our waitress explaining every dish in detail and waiting as we dithered on our order. Expect lots of herring, potatoes and fried items like the tasty deep fried pork. If you’re lucky to visit in late August, the restaurant also serves a crayfish menu, assuming you don’t get yourself invited to a famed, booze soaked Swedish Crayfish Party. End your meal with a tasting of infused aquavits with flavors like dill and coriander or cumin, anise and sherry.

Swedish wine culture, as in much of Scandinavia, focuses its energies on natural wines. 19 Glas is ground zero for the movement in Stockholm, a cozy bar room with a smattering of tables where you can enjoy a $60 four course prix fixe menu with dishes like pork with lingonberries and green cabbage. But here it’s about the wine… with a caveat. You’ll be presented with a long list full of tempting choices that they don’t have. No one is sure why the list exists so do as the regulars do and just tell the staff what you like and they will appear with something for you. If you’re into beer, the collection of craft brews is stellar. 19 Glas may be a quirky place but it’s definitely worth a stop.

Nearby, Gaston, from the group that owns Michelin-starred Restaurant Frantzen, straddles the line with more well-known wines alongside their natural brethren. Here, I recommend you take a seat at the bar and see what is in the trough in front of you. In addition to the list, invariably there are other options just opened for the day and the staff is more than willing to pour you a taste.

Cocktails aren’t as much a presence in this still government-controlled liquor market. For starters, spirit infusions were banned until quite recently and the art of constructing a drink is playing catch-up as a result. Pharmarium, set on the site of Sweden’s first pharmacy way back in 1575 and sharing a picturesque Old Town square with the Nobel Museum, is the most avant garde player in town. Here it is all about the craft of infusions and the use of medicinal herbs and local spirits. The complex Wooden Ships exemplifies the artistry at work, with Wild Turkey Bourbon, Palo Santo (a South American tree), birch-smoked vermouth, Carlshamns Flaggpunsch liqueur, apricot and bitters, arriving under a cloud of smoke. Be forewarned though, Pharmarium closes at 11pm Sunday – Tuesday (last call being half an hour earlier). On the other hand they’re open on Sundays unlike many other spots so get your drinking in early.

Little Quarter, by turns, is indeed as miniscule as its name suggests. Found in the hip Södermalm district, hidden in the back of Louisiana-style bistro Marie Laveau, Little Quarter has won its fair share of acclaim but be prepared for a rowdy room rather than a serene cocktail den. If it’s the weekend, you’ll be confronted by bouncers in front of the restaurant whose jobs are essentially to  a) not let in drunken people and  b) make sure you’re not bringing in your own booze. Don’t sweat the crowd as they’re lined up for the cheap drinks in the boisterous front bar. Just go all the way to the back and Little Quarter is on the right. Once you find it, you can enjoy riffs on classics, many with rock and roll monikers, like the Start Me Up, a boozy concoction with rye, calvados, lemon and sugar.

Not yet considered a gastronomic destination, Stockholm’s food and drinks scene does take some exploration. But dig beneath the austere functionality of everything, and you will unearth many delights.

www.visitstockholm.com