West Virginia – Wild and Wonderful

 

Looking for a getaway this summer but don’t want to spring for high priced international flights?  Why not hang around in the good ole USA and try something different?  A trip to Southern West Virginia, perhaps.

I realize the mention of West Virginia conjures up images of coal mines, moonshine and the forever feuding Hatfields and McCoys.  Curious to find out more about West Virginia beyond its outdated stereotypes, I headed down with a couple of girlfriends for the weekend.

Our adventure began in the state’s capitol, Charleston – a hip city brimming with culture and southern charm.  The first stop on our itinerary was the Capitol Market.  Housed in a renovated train station, Capitol Market expertly blends an outdoor farmers market with unique specialty shops filled with uncommon gourmet treats, wine, cheese and chocolates.  Let’s face it – no weekend is complete without wine, cheese and chocolate.

Capitol Market is also home to upscale eateries like Soho’s.  Exposed beams, original brick walls and warehouse flooring evoke a casual elegance at Charleston’s most happening place for lunch and dinner.  Soho’s serves superb gourmet Italian cuisine, salads and desserts created by Chef “Bill” Sohovich.

Next up was a visit to Spring Hill Cemetery.  Admittedly a cemetery is not a typical destination, but this one – perched above the city – happens to afford some of the most spectacular views of downtown Charleston and the gorgeous capitol building with its gleaming dome gilded in 23-1/2 karat gold.  The cemetery provides a peek into some of the personalities of Charleston’s dearly departed.

Look for the Thayer family monument made from pure zinc.  During Prohibition it is said a family member hid his forbidden bottle of whiskey inside the sliding door of the monument … he visited often.  My favorite tombstones (yes, I really do have favorite graves) were those of the Stump family.  Taking their name quite literally, the family monument is carved in the shape of a tree stump.  Other family members’ tombstones are smaller stumps complete with engraved leaves and tree bark.

To really get to know West Virginia check out its rich history at the West Virginia State Museum.  Located on the Capitol grounds in the Culture Center, this phenomenal experiential museum guides you through the evolution of the state from its prehistoric inhabitants to the present.  Even the floor provides an experiential walk through time as it moves from dinosaur footprints, to humans, followed by horses, wagons and eventually trains and cars.

West Virginia has the distinction of being the only state located completely within the Appalachian Mountain range and the traditional Appalachian music and dances are a vital part of the culture of its past and present.  Exhibits and discovery rooms in the museum showcase traditional musical instruments, dances and costumes.  There is plenty to learn about the state’s coal mining history, the vital role trains played in the state’s development and even a bit about moonshine.   Did you know that NASCAR racing got its start because of moonshine?  During Prohibition, moonshine runners souped up their cars to give the slip to Federal Agents determined to bust them – the race was on!

With the day’s exploration done, we headed to Pies & Pints in downtown Charleston to sample the uniquely handcrafted pizzas and premium beers.  Entering this charming restaurant we were greeted by a large mural of a white elephant – a beautifully restored relic from Charleston’s White Elephant Saloon from the late 1800′s – and instantly we knew we were in one of the coolest eateries in Charleston.

We sampled the chicken wings, we sampled the beers, we tasted pizzas with names like “Cuban Pork Pie” – marinated slow roasted pulled pork, caramelized onions, pineapple, jalapeños, feta and fresh cilantro – and “Chicken Gouda Pie” – marinated grilled chicken, bacon, smoked Gouda, red onions with chipotle and scallions.  We loved every bite and sip!

The next morning we headed south for a little all terrain vehicle action on the Little Coal River Trail – one of seven trails in the Hatfield & McCoy Trail system.   One of the largest of its kind in the world, the Hatfield & McCoy Trails consist of approximately 650 miles of adrenaline inducing off road trails through the mountains of Southern West Virginia.  The trails wind through nine counties with some trailheads beginning in “ATV-friendly” towns.  These towns have passed ordinances allowing ATV’s to be driven on the streets.  Riders are welcome, muddy boots and all, to grab a bite to eat, shop or stay in the local inns and experience true ATV hospitality.

Like ski slopes, the trails are ranked green, blue, black and double-black diamond based on the degree of difficulty.  From the challenging double black diamond trails of the Bear Wallow Trail, to the scenic family favorite Pinnacle Creek Trail, to the Buffalo Mountain Trail – a favorite of motorcyclists – there is something for everyone and every level from novice to advanced.

Since this was our first time handling an ATV and since we wanted to survive the weekend, it was suggested we try the Little Coal River Trail.  We were also introduced to a new type of ATV – the UTV.  These all terrain vehicles have four seats much like a jeep.  They are easier to handle than an ATV allowing a complete novice to experience the thrill of the trail without having to learn how to balance an ATV.  Women in particular enjoy these fun vehicles because they can ride with their friends, talk and scream together and sling more mud on their passengers.

We arrived at the trail head, donned our helmets and goggles and split up between two UTV’s with our guides.  These poor men had no idea what they were in for as we sped up and down the hills, around the curves and through every possible mud puddle we could find – the adrenaline was pumping and the mud was slinging.  At one point my guide, Mike, suggested I go around some of the puddles instead of through them – not a chance!   After a couple of hours on the trail we were exhilarated, exhausted and covered in mud.

With the top layer of mud washed off, we set off for our next adventure – a tour of the sites of the infamous feud between the families of Devil Anse Hatfield and Randolph McCoy.  Our guide for the tour was Bill Richardson.  I doubt if even the Hatfields or McCoys know as much about the feud as Bill.  He has devoted countless hours to research and development of tours of the feud’s significant sites.

Sites on the Hatfield and McCoy tour include the Coal House in Tug Valley which is built with 65 tons of coal.  The Coal House is home to the Tug Valley Chamber of Commerce and has several artifacts that were uncovered in archeological digs of the feud sites, including a jar of moonshine from Randolph McCoy’s private collection.  Just prior to our visit, Bill had overseen an archeological dig that unearthed bullets fired on January 1, 1888 by the McCoys in their final conflict with the Hatfields. Bill let me hold the bullets, which was pretty wild but, alas, he wouldn’t open the moonshine for me.

We also visited the Hog Trial site where a trial over a pig started yet another feud.  Our final stop on the tour was the Hatfield Family’s Cemetery. Devil Anse Hatfield ordered a marble statue of himself carved in Italy and had it hauled up the mountainside by mules to the spot he chose for the cemetery.  Leave it to the Devil to make a statement even in death.  Self guided driving tours, guided group tours and personalized tours are available.

Between the mud-slinging and the feuding we worked up an appetite that led us to Chirico’s in Logan.  This family owned Italian restaurant is one of those charming places where everyone seems to know everyone.  We feasted on heaping plates of homemade pasta and freshly baked bread until we could feast no more – except for those additional bites of Italian brickle for dessert.

After dinner we were whisked away to Chief Logan State Park for “Pickin’ in the Park” – a local Saturday night tradition featuring bluegrass and other music for dancing and down home entertainment! The park is home to the Museum in the Park which houses a captivating collection of artifacts including the costumes used in the movie “We Are Marshall” about the aftermath of the 1970′s plane crash that killed virtually all of the football team and coaches for Marshall University in Huntington, West Virginia. The park is also home to a wildlife exhibit of rescued animals including foxes, anteaters and my favorites, Rascal and Mandy – beautiful West Virginia black bears.

So, yes, some of the stereotypes are true, there is moonshine, bluegrass and remnants of the Hatfield & McCoy feud but that’s all part of West Virginia’s charm.  It’s truly wild and wonderful and a great place for families and friends to get away for some down and dirty fun – just don’t let the kids sample the moonshine.

www.visitwv.com